CCP LSx Motor Mount Conversion and forward plate

[Chris Coufal]

Anyone used this? Did you have any issues? I will be calling them Monday but I'm just curious if this looks right?

My mounts are in the front holes on the frame. Is this correct? If I put them in the rear holes, the bottom of the mount does not line up on the crossmember and sits crooked.

If I put the motor plates on with the point facing forward like the instructions show, the motor is about 8" forward and sits where the radiator should be. The pan hits the crossmember. I reversed the plates and it is mounted as seen in the pics below. I still feel like the motor should be 2-2.5" back further.

The kit I ordered according to the gentleman I spoke with on the phone, was supposed to move the motor 1.25" forward and have 1-7/8" headers. To me, it looks like these are 3" forward plates and when I measured the headers they are only 1-3/4". Pretty upset that what I was told I ordered is not actually what I received.

Does anyone have any pics so I can cross reference? Can you measure your adapter plate so I can compare?
Thanks

[DLW]

Looks like the way you have them is proper. I was looking at the pics of this guys and looks very similar http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=609850.

Looks like a lot of guys are using the slider mounts now. CPP actually sell the slider mounts too http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=597125.

[Chris Coufal]

The way it is right now I can not run a fan/shroud on the radiator of it will hit.

[66LSx]

Hope these help... see my build thread for more if you need it...

[Chris Coufal]

great reference pics. Your engine sits back much further than mine.

[Snailed]

It's such a bummer to read these endless CPP threads...I got tricked too. First and last time.

[66LSx]

Originally Posted by Snailed

It's such a bummer to read these endless CPP threads...I got tricked too. First and last time.

I was totally happy with the CPP sheetmetal welded motor perches and cross member.

I bought the engine mounts off of ebay.
I bought the trans X-member off of Summit

I bought dirty dingo slider mounts not made by CPP due to me liking their design more.

If you can get CPP parts and avoid actually dealing with them.... its not bad.

As always.... if you can... try to do your own homework and get your own part numbers (from members like me, you, and joe-shmo) who have been there done that.... it takes out the human error of service-counter-highschooler.

I went with the dingo sliders to avoid this and to keep my original driveshaft.

[DLW]

Originally Posted by Chris Coufal

The way it is right now I can not run a fan/shroud on the radiator of it will hit.

Well that sucks, sorry man!

I bought this kit here off ebay through CPP http://www.ebay.com/itm/63-64-65-66-...-/261309364202.

The headers it came with are THY-322Y-C which are 1-3/4" headers. Oddly I can't find them on DT's website but I can find them all over the net. The kit also came with sliders. However, I have not used the kit and I will not use it (except the headers) since I have since got all Porterbuilt stuff.

Let us know what CPP has to say? Because I need to sell all these other CPP parts ..

[Chris Coufal]

DLW....That's pretty much the same kit I got except it doesn't have the slider engine mounts. I called them a few times and the guy I spoke with was nice and seemed knowledgeable. He gave me a small price break for being a C10 forum member. The kit was $830 + shipping. He reassured me the mounting kit would move it 1-1/4" forward and it was specifically designed to work with the DT headers and they would not have a fitment issue. I called and asked again about the headers because all of the kits I saw on the internet were 1-3/4" headers with a 3" collector and he reassured me these were 1-7/8". I promptly started searching out exhaust/cam/intake/head combos geared around a big bad header.

The second thing I dislike about the kit is it seemed a knucklehead packed the bolt/nut hardware. None of the lock washers fit the allen-head bolts they supplied....LOL. Thirdly, the instructions state you must grind off part of the ridge on the back of the motor mount to work with the adapter bracket....I found this to be an easy fix but a poor under-engineered design. I'm not concerned about the strength, but I find it humorous that you have to grind-to-fit part of a kit listed to "bolt right in".

I'm happy with the DT headers as they are beautiful. I like the geometry and function of the mounting kit also.....I just want it to move the motor back so I can run a fan shroud. I'm calling them tomorrow and going to see about swapping these mounts out.

[Clyde65]

These are the perches that I used. They would fit either way ( front or rear hole, I used rear) but do need the top frame rail trimmed.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...RACKETS-16820/

[DLW]

Originally Posted by Chris Coufal

DLW....That's pretty much the same kit I got except it doesn't have the slider engine mounts. I called them a few times and the guy I spoke with was nice and seemed knowledgeable. He gave me a small price break for being a C10 forum member. The kit was $830 + shipping. He reassured me the mounting kit would move it 1-1/4" forward and it was specifically designed to work with the DT headers and they would not have a fitment issue. I called and asked again about the headers because all of the kits I saw on the internet were 1-3/4" headers with a 3" collector and he reassured me these were 1-7/8". I promptly started searching out exhaust/cam/intake/head combos geared around a big bad header.

Regarding the headers, as you found out the tape measure doesn't lie for either of us. Not sure why they, and a few others, list as 1-7/8" headers, and many others list it as 1-3/4". With that said, 1-3/4" is plenty for any head/cam/bolt-on combo out there, and the exhaust ports on a stock head measure 1-5/8". Unless you open the ports up quite a bit hopefully the 1-3/4" will work for you.

Hope they straighten you out on the motor mounts too, maybe they gave you the wrong block mounts and can get a new set or the sliders to you quickly.

[66LSx]

Here to clear it up (because I ran into this ALOT) doing my research.

322-y is the 61-66 DT header... PRIMARY/COLLECTOR: 1-3/4" / 2-1/2"

323-y is the 67-72 DT header that works in ours also: PRIMARY/COLLECTOR: 1-7/8" / 2-1/2"

**BOTH** 322 AND 323 exit with a small downward angle that CAN hurt or make things 'difficult' to get the exhaust UP INSIDE the frame rails and slammed trucks this can be an issue. I BELIEVE in looking at geometry... a 322 is simply just 1/8" smaller diameter 323... same shape, routing, and crossover layout. (I could be wrong but the pictures look the same)

Here is a 322/323 (google image search brings back the same image from DT)


With wanting to keep my A-arms and cross member the lowest parts on my truck....I elected for the 67-72 series 324-y which exit straight back, inside the frame rails. (even though my 66 truck is "60-66"..... the 324-y's meant for 67-72's work just fine)

The 324 series is the smallest of the group @ 1-5/8" Primary...(same 2.50 collector)

With not building a HIGH HP build... I elected for the 324-y's

*notice the straight back exit angle at the collector*



322 = 1.75 dia 61-66
323 = 1.88 dia 67-72
324 = 1.63 dia 67-72 (w/ straight back exit)

[Chris Coufal]

these definitely have 3" collectors.....not 2.5".

[Chris Coufal]

Well.....I called and left them a message yesterday and emailed them.....and didn't get a response in either format. This is sounding very familiar.....