Clouds of white coming out of one side of exhaust

[scotts72heavyhalf]

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

[Lokin4AReason]

if it is getting rebuilt, make sure you use a oil that is meant for breaking in engine(s) and not the stuff you buy for a regular oil change ..

one of my friend(s) is getting an engine redone AGAIN because he didnt realize that =0/

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by jeffahart

$2000 can be done but it will be a tight squeeze. It becomes all about your tolerance for re-bolting old and iffy parts back onto your new pack. Distributor, oil pump, water pump.... it all starts adding up.

I will be allocating $4000-$5000 and it's because I plan to get new everything within reason. And that includes radiator.

Fortunately all those parts are less than a year old on my truck, ive replaced everything under the hood except the oil pump but I can't imagine a new engine coming without one installed.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by scotts72heavyhalf

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

Thought about getting mine rebuilt but I don't have time, plus I have no idea if my block is cracked, bad head or just a head gasket. I'd hate to waste time and money having a builder find issues, I'd rather just throw a new engine in and hopefully be done with it.

[jeffahart]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Thought about getting mine rebuilt but I don't have time, plus I have no idea if my block is cracked, bad head or just a head gasket. I'd hate to waste time and money having a builder find issues, I'd rather just throw a new engine in and hopefully be done with it.

I think you should start speaking with local shops that rebuild and re-manufacture engines. Most do a great job for a good price with good warranties and a place to actually take the vehicle if something goes wrong. They will install very reasonably because it's all they do. And you can drive your truck out with pretty quick turnover.

I like the prices of the internet engines but there's something about an Amazon type purchase with an engine that I cannot get past. I like to look someone in the eye and shake a greasy calloused hand on a deal when it comes to something like this.

I've bought many engines this way. Bought one for my sons car last year after he spun a rod. Why do I buy from these types of shops in lieu of doing myself.

Because the last 6 or 7 engines I've bought have caught me at a bad time when I've not had the time to dicker with pulling a pack and gathering parts.

Example: The truck I have right not threw a rod and destroyed the engine back in the late 80s with about 70,000 miles. I was in my last year of college. I took it to a re-manufacture shop, I think I paid around $600-700 back then. They had 350s O' plenty back then! I drove out of the shop a couple days later. It was a life saver for me.

That same engine is in the truck three owners later. It has over 100,000K and it's tired, but it's been a good engine. And that shop is still there and they are the ones that did my sons engine last year.

[Xeen]

Yeah man just get a GM crate motor and be done with it, quick and easy, can't go wrong there.

[AirSpeed]

There are no rebuild shops around me unfortunately and the two auto shops in town are ridiculously expensive, they wanted $3000 to rebuild my tranny and they would send it to the same place I paid $800 to finally do it. I just can't spend much more than $2000 right now, just bought new tires last week, kinda sucked up a bit of my cash flow.

[jeffahart]

It might be worth a trip to Redding. Just for the hell of it you should call a place like American & Import and see what they say. At least you will have a third price. I guess one of the good things about being in L.A. (and there ain't many) is there is a crap load of these types of shops. And the good guys will usually spend a few minutes to give you their honest 2 cents.

But then again I'm kinda strange, as I like working the phones!

Good luck!

American & Import Engines
1301 E Cypress Ave, Redding, CA 96002
(530) 222-2550

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

What would you guys put in a 72 gmc 4X4, th350. I live in the mountains and only tow my teardrop trailer with the truck, it's my daily driver. I'd like to keep it around $2000.

Might be a budget buster but I would look into a 383 stroker for more torque. Had my 350 rebuilt many years ago and have always wished I would have spent the extra for a stroker, but it wasn't in the budget at the time.

[Xeen]

Check this deal out from Speedway motors, inexpensive and free shipping!

Long Block
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Per...ine,69874.html

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by xeen

yeah man just get a gm crate motor and be done with it, quick and easy, can't go wrong there.

x2.

[JasonLS1]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

x2.

x3

[AirSpeed]

My truck has a 4" lift on 33" tires, I doubt I'll find a lift in my area to go high enough to clear the rad support and grill, I don't want to pull the front end apart so I'm thinking of pulling the front tires or letting the air out of the tires to drop the truck enough. Can any of you see an issue with doing so?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

My truck has a 4" lift on 33" tires, I doubt I'll find a lift in my area to go high enough to clear the rad support and grill, I don't want to pull the front end apart so I'm thinking of pulling the front tires or letting the air out of the tires to drop the truck enough. Can any of you see an issue with doing so?

I used to remove front tires on lifted vehicles all the time to get them low enough to work on when I was a mechanic. Just don't let it down on the brake rotors/dust shields or other non-solid suspension parts that won't support the weight of the truck. I don't like letting tires down with weight on them, it can damage the tires; blow-out on a lifted vehicle could get hairy.

I usually put a floor jack on the cross-member or front diff and just let it down all the way or on wooden blocks, but to clear the cherry picker you might need to strategically place the blocks under the axle, but I'm not sure even then you will be able to extend the lift boom in there deep enough to not risk flipping the lift over and damaging things.

You have to drain the coolant anyway I think in the long run if you pull the rad support first it will be so much easier than all the climbing up and down over and over and squeezing yourself in there and all the possible damage to the fenders I've done it both ways and I always pull the rad support now. It's not as intimidating as it looks if you have never done it before.

Bumper, grill, A/C lines if you have them, trans lines if you have them, coolant hoses on the engine side only, wires, support bolts, fender bolts, etc. I see no reason to remove the radiator, shroud, headlights, washer bottle, voltage reg if you have it from the support. Get it down to the last couple bolts then get a friend to help remove it or use the cherry picker with some tie-down straps.

Remove the carb first, then if you use a tight enough lift chain/s you can usually get the engine out without removing the hood, IF you remove the core support so that should ease the pain a little.

[hamjet]

Do you have an old set of rims around? put them on and drive her in the garage...

[imjeff]

I have the same set up. You should be able to squeak it over at full extension on the tires. I've done it on squares as well...all with 4" and 33's. Just make sure you have room over head and keep your chain as short as you can. Worse case you drop the front end with the motor on the hoist, but doubt you'll have to.

Jeff

[AirSpeed]

Thanks all! I do have an old pair of rims I could throw on it. ordering an engine Monday. My old 350 was rebuilt about five years before I got it, I'm almost glad this happened since it was starting to smoke and its definately not as strong as it should be. I may rebuild the one in it and put it in my 69, IF the block is in good shape and not cracked. Thanks again all!

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by scotts72heavyhalf

Well here`s what I did, I found a local machine shop Portland Or, that built me a 340hp 4 bolt main with speed pro-pistons and cam, double roller timing chain, high volume oil pump, numbers matching block and heads build sheet and 6 month warrenty for $1495 exchange had to add intake, new starter and misc but he installed the intake as well. Runs great, great oil pressure and very happy with the engine. Now that being said itonly has a 6 month warrenty but if something is wrong with a SBC its going to happen at break in. I would look around unless you want to keep it numbers matching find a good engine rebuilder or this guy might ship you one.

You never want to use a high volume pump on a sbc only high pressure pumps. Reason being a sbc already has a great oiling system and with a high volume pump you will suck the pan dry since it takes a lot longer for the oil to come back down in the pan.

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Thanks all! I do have an old pair of rims I could throw on it. ordering an engine Monday. My old 350 was rebuilt about five years before I got it, I'm almost glad this happened since it was starting to smoke and its definately not as strong as it should be. I may rebuild the one in it and put it in my 69, IF the block is in good shape and not cracked. Thanks again all!

When I bought a 350 crate motor from the Chevy dealer in 1999 for my '71 Jimmy, they didn't require your old small block as a core, but I heard now they do. Of course if there is a core charge and you feel you want to rebuild your old engine, you could pay the core charge and keep it. Or you could turn in the old block and be done with it. Check on core charges before you buy.