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#1 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 635
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Re: Mike The Grad's Coolant Splat
Mechanical man: yes the engine has been totally rebuilt. I think in '92. At the 300k mark. And its got 74k on the rebuild. The work was done by my ex's grandfather. He had a shop here in town for quit a while. From what I hear he has a damn good reputation. I don't doubt any of the work he's done on any car. I know the crank is .10 under. My financial situation may change here shortly, so I'm thinking of taking advantage of the situation and do a little more than just change gaskets. The only true thing that's hurting me is being without a vehicle. And the more I send to the shop the longer the turn around is...
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1972 C/10 LWB - Mine 1964 C/10 LWB - My Dad's |
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#2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Glendale, Arizna
Posts: 1,642
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Re: Mike The Grad's Coolant Splat
Quote:
Any chance anything on the valve seats looks remotely like a crack, send the heads to the shop. Valve seals, for sure; I'd put the "umbrella" seals on it along with the stock "o-ring" on the intake only. Don't put the o-rings on the exhaust valve if you are using the umbrellas, they stop the oil flow to the umbrella and it gets too hot. Same reason the o-ring burns up on the exhaust and fails, but if the umbrella gets the oil over it, it will last a long time. The stock exhaust valve faces are way too thick next to the stem and retain too much heat. No advantage to replacing rings and honing unless the rings are stuck, and then I'd just do it on #7 ONLY if it needed it, it just increases piston to cylinder wall clearance and will decrease the life of the engine. Because you have the intake off, do what I said for the lifters, it's too easy. After sitting outside for years with no tarp, a lifter could have gotten sticky and might be on it's way out. You don't want to take it apart again after you do the head gaskets. You don't want to see bad lifters/cam, but if you have a bad lifter/cam, you want to see it. If the heads are cracked, replace them. Don't let the shop talk you into a crack repair. If you think the heads need magnaflux test, they pass, and if your g-dad in law put new valve guides in it, have the shop grind the seats and put a "head improvement kit" in it, you can do it yourself if you have or can get a valve spring compressor. Very reasonable, come with everything you need, come in both valve sizes. Measure the valves first, I think you have the 1.94 but measure to be sure. Get the cheapest head kit in your valve size, you don't need higher pressure valve springs and if the cam is stock you don't want to shim the springs. http://www.competitionproducts.com/H.../#.VD6_V010wu4 http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...s/products/27/ If you use a head improvement kit, you won't need or be able to put the o-rings on the intake valves. New head bolts, 1094 head gaskets. It is what it is. I'm telling you the cheapest, fastest way to fix right. Feel free to ask me anything. |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 635
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Re: Mike The Grad's Coolant Splat
Mechanicalman: I definitely appreciate your input. The way I look at it is, the more information available to me will help me make the correct choices. Everyone isn't right, and everyone isn't wrong. I will pass along the opinion and see what I hear in return. And yes, I agree with you about doing this again in the near future. I don't want to! It seems as though everything I've done up til this point I've already had to redo. But that's the fun about learning right?! Pfff.... I'm about getting it done right the first time. But that can't always be when I try and do everything myself for the first time. I love to learn, just not at the price of doing everything twice. It is what it is, and I'm much smarter now than I was 6 months ago.
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1972 C/10 LWB - Mine 1964 C/10 LWB - My Dad's |
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#4 | |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Re: Mike The Grad's Coolant Splat
Quote:
Hell, I'm sixty-eight and have been working on American cars and bikes (and some BMW's thrown in the mix) since I was fourteen. All I can say is that thanks to guys like mechanicalman, Locdoc, VetteVet, and so many others that SHOULD BE NAMED, I'm much smarter about these puzzles than I was a few days ago. And a few months ago. And a few years ago. Now, when it comes to taking good advice, I still need some work. It's a hard lesson to learn at any age to step back and take another look while those with more experience than I offer up their selfless and precious help. The real deal, in life as well as in this stuff, is getting out of one's own head. And then practicing humility while paying it forward. The people on this Forum are still teaching this old dog. HIJACK RANT: OFF
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Santa Paula, CA
Posts: 635
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Re: Mike The Grad's Coolant Splat
Magweekeenercew2jh: 100% in agreement. Even though I don't really let others on to how much I don't know, I will be the first one to admit when I'm wrong. Mostly because, I don't want to give someone else the satisfaction in knowing that they called me on my bull$#!+...lol. I still don't know what I'm doing but I have an idea. In the short time I've been a member I've searched through countless threads for hours, thinking that I have a problem no ones EVER had. Boy am I wrong. Its comforting to know I'm not the first, and definitely not the last. So I try to pay it forward, even if my two cents ain't worth the time it took to type it.
![]() Below is comparison for the amount of work I have put into my truck. All work done by me in my garage. (Except carb rebuild,to easy to screw up...) Top:Jan.'14,middle:mar.'14,bottom: may'14
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1972 C/10 LWB - Mine 1964 C/10 LWB - My Dad's Last edited by Mike_The_Grad; 10-15-2014 at 08:33 PM. Reason: info |
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