1947 Rust repairs, Roof, A pillar, beltline

[oldman3]

You are probably correct on the dies and the difference in parts. You and your crew have done a great job on the truck, nice save...Jim

[dwcsr]

Thanks,
I sketched out what the difference at the windshield at the roof line are in 47 and 50. You don't notice it until you need lines to match up

[BlueJeep]

Nice job!

Now that you've done it, care to post up your thoughts on panel bonding the rear seam? It was only concept in my head, but now I'm anxious for real world experienced opinions.

[dwcsr]

The adhesive we used was Lord Fusor 108B it has a 40 - 50 min set time and I think a 2 hour un-clamp time so you have some room to move the panel into position.

I've weld bonded a roof before and it was real easy, lay the adhesive and basically drop the roof on and clamp it, spot weld every 8 inches, this was a little different because the panel needs to be positioned so it fits centered for the windows and still wraps around correctly to the doors. We test fit this about 5 times and once with all the clamps for the weld bonding process before we laid down the adhesive. It is a two man job not doubt about it.

The results are much better than I had anticipated. It looks nice and it will seal the seam from any future water penetration. I think this will be the way I do the seam when I do rear upper and lower cab panels.

[FarmerSid]

Nice work! What did you use to bond the top and lower rear panels?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Nice work! What did you use to bond the top and lower rear panels?

The product is made by Lord, called Fusor 108B, cost was about $40 with the two mixing tips. Application gun can be had for between $35 and 50 on ebay. We are doing the drip rails with it as well.

[FarmerSid]

Sorry Dave for the stupid question. I had read your update earlier this morning and got busy. I didn't refresh the thread to see if there was any new posts before I posted the question.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Sorry Dave for the stupid question. I had read your update earlier this morning and got busy. I didn't refresh the thread to see if there was any new posts before I posted the question.

No problem,,, I think I may try it on the cowl panels next time I do one, it would be so much quicker and easier to clean up for finishing. As long as the part is not structural you can a use this.

[dwcsr]

So here we are ready for delivery to the painter. The body is rough finished to the point they like it at.

As a note we used the Fusor 108B for the drip rails and the back panel up right. It made putting on the drip rail so much easier, glue it , screw it and once set remove the screws and plug weld the holes.

Last picture is where the A pillar was at before we started

[FarmerSid]

Question for you Dave. How will that belt line seam be finished off for paint?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

Question for you Dave. How will that belt line seam be finished off for paint?

The recommendation is to skim coat it with filler. The adhesive is always a little tacky even after drying

[FarmerSid]

So it will be filled in and look like there is no seam there? What filler will be used? Thanks Dave.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by FarmerSid

So it will be filled in and look like there is no seam there? What filler will be used? Thanks Dave.

They recommend you finish with fiber-filled body filler. I don't know a particular brand that has fiber strands but I'm sure you can find it.

[rgunlock]

I've used a product from Evercoat called Kitty Hair for similar applications. Looks like the stuff you find in a sink trap, and smells worse, but sands out pretty nice.

[FarmerSid]

Thanks Dave

[dwcsr]

Just to keep you all up to date here is a pictures of this truck as it is now. Almost finished.

[dwcsr]

For those interested here it is 99% done. It just needs a few paint touch ups, the floor mat horn button and minor odds and ends but its driving, steering and more importantly stopping

[dwcsr]

few more

[dwcsr]

The engine is 292 ci, SM420, 14 bolt rear, disc on all 4, AC from Old Air, the gauges were done by a board member Tom at Classic Gauge and Cluster. He did some custom work for me on these by adding a charge gauge from a later model that works like the 72 trucks. They used a mili-volt meter that connected at the battery and at the Alt splice to sense voltage flow, works perfectly. Cooling fan is a Mark VIII fan with a PWM controller. We moved the radiator forward to make room. It has power steering like the old school trucks did , ram assist with a control valve on the Pittman arm. The wheels were converted to tubeless by Stockton wheel keeping the old pattern and hub cap clips. Complete AAW wiring harness. Intermittent wipers.

We started 4/12 this year

[FarmerSid]

Looks awesome Dave! Just awesome! A lot of very nice touches finishing it off. What did you end up using for filler on the belt line? Thanks for the update.

[oldman3]

Nice job on the rebuild, boy that is a long puppy...Jim

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by oldman3

Nice job on the rebuild, boy that is a long puppy...Jim

Thanks, it seems to get longer each time I look at it. It turns like a bus

[dwcsr]

They used some Dynatron 462 Dyna-Glass Short Strand Body Filler

[47 Fasttoys]

Very nice overall Dave. I see you have a few modern touches on it but, I gotta say those LED brakes on the back....no way. Maybe not your choice. Great overall.
Rob

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by 47 Fasttoys

Very nice overall Dave. I see you have a few modern touches on it but, I gotta say those LED brakes on the back....no way. Maybe not your choice. Great overall.
Rob

Thanks,

The lights were customer choice, Here in Houston its not if you get rear ended its when and he wanted people texting, reading books or doing make up to be able to see the brake lights. This truck is high enough that a Honda or toyota would go under up to the axle.