Cab Support Replacement - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

avejoe · 01-20-2004, 11:06 PM

The rubber cab supports on my 72 K10 are shot. Is the replacement as simple as removing the bolts, jacking up the cab, sliding out the old and installing the new? Do any other body fastners need to be loosened to allow the cab to be raised enough to allow the new rubber to go in?

Thanks!

*rage'nrat638* · 01-20-2004, 11:21 PM

SPRAY THEM NOW......with WD-40 and every few days ,,so when you get them...the bolts might even loosen up....

valley 67 · 01-20-2004, 11:34 PM

make sure you jack up just enough to get rubbers out because fenders bolted to cab and if jacked too high possible you may put in bind and mess up door reveal since radiator support maounted on ruberr mounts also. but ill bet not too much give and also think that if new rubbers taller might change door reveal if radiator support rubbbers arent changed also just giving worst case scenarios something that you might want to consider. hope i didnt worry you

**JIMs70GMC** · 01-21-2004, 07:20 AM

Best bet would be to loosen all 3 mounts on one side. I soaked mine and still had to cut 3 off. pics in link in sig. Basically your thinking is right jacket up and remove and re-install and lower. You'll spend more time getting the bolts out. I did purchase all new hardware from LMC and everything fit good with the prothane poly body mounts I installed.

01-20-2004, 11:06 PM	#1
avejoe Custer had a plan too. Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: No. California Posts: 344	Cab Support Replacement The rubber cab supports on my 72 K10 are shot. Is the replacement as simple as removing the bolts, jacking up the cab, sliding out the old and installing the new? Do any other body fastners need to be loosened to allow the cab to be raised enough to allow the new rubber to go in? Thanks!

01-21-2004, 07:20 AM	#4
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	Best bet would be to loosen all 3 mounts on one side. I soaked mine and still had to cut 3 off. pics in link in sig. Basically your thinking is right jacket up and remove and re-install and lower. You'll spend more time getting the bolts out. I did purchase all new hardware from LMC and everything fit good with the prothane poly body mounts I installed. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

01-20-2004, 11:21 PM	#2
rage'nrat638 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: THE FALL GUY CHICAGO IL Posts: 5,883	SPRAY THEM NOW......with WD-40 and every few days ,,so when you get them...the bolts might even loosen up....

01-20-2004, 11:34 PM	#3
valley 67 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: calif. central valley Posts: 175	make sure you jack up just enough to get rubbers out because fenders bolted to cab and if jacked too high possible you may put in bind and mess up door reveal since radiator support maounted on ruberr mounts also. but ill bet not too much give and also think that if new rubbers taller might change door reveal if radiator support rubbbers arent changed also just giving worst case scenarios something that you might want to consider. hope i didnt worry you



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