700r4 needs a rebuild -advice please

[walls]

I just purchased a 78' K10 4x4.
The trans has got a burning smell and wont do 2nd gear.
I'm assuming it's going to need a rebuild and I bought it knowing that before hand.
Owner said it was a 350 crate motor 3.55 rear gears.

Here's my questions-

1. How do I figure out exactly what I have?
-I don't want to rebuild a trans that is not suitable for my purpose (normal road driving)
2. How do I know what HP level to have it built to?
-is stock rebuild sufficient, cost is definitely a factor.
3. Should I just find a new trans and swap it out?

Any help or ideas will be appreciated

[crazeetxn]

Years ago, I took my 350 out for a 700r4. Bought in on the auction site. Came in a Rubbermaid container, but fit my needs. Wanted to O/D for highway usage. Went out a few years back and had it rebuilt. He didn't do anything fancy, but used quality parts and it's been running great ever sense.

Having it rebuilt was my only option because of time constraints and I couldn't have gotten one delivered and installed the time he took.

As for what HP you need, normal road driving to me would warrant stock or one level up. As long as it's setup right with the throttle valve cable, it should last.

Check out bowtieoverdrives.com for info. Great folks to deal with. Bought a few parts from them in the past.

[walls]

Thanks, I pulled the numbers from the from right above the pan on the passenger side.
From what I gather it's a 1992 model which I've read have less problems than the earlier generation.
I guess I just need to find some local to rebuild.

[piecesparts]

If you choose to do a rebuild, then talk to the tranny person about a couple things that were a little deficient in the 700 R4 trannies. First of all get the "Hardened" seperator plate for the valve body. The factory one is soft and after some time the check balls will wear the holes out where they seat. The heavier duty clutch packs is a good way to go for an upgrade and also look at a heavy duty pump for the tranny. I would also look at a SFI rated flexplate for the torque converter to bolt up to. I have cracked a couple in my lifetime and it is a pain to move the tranny back from the engine to put in a new one.

I have a 700 R4 behind my 84's 383 stroker engine and I have found that after updating the front oil pump, along with the heavier duty input parts, the tranny supports horsepower quite well.

[walls]

I'm going to give Countywide Transmissions a shot over in NJ.
I talked with the owner and he seems to be very knowledgeable.
I'll use mine as a core and go pick up a rebuilt one he has in stock.
He talked about the importance of the TV cable being hooked up right and using an adaptor for the edelbrock carb I'm using.
Also saying it's possible the reason for the failure of the trans in the first place.

Any suggestions before I start removing the trans?
Something I should watch for to make reinstallation go smooth?
I've never removed an auto.
I have limited time to work on things like this(work, family)
so I wouldn't want something to pop up causing me excessive trouble.
Special tools, etc..

Im guessing remove drive shaft, transfer case, wires/cables, then drop it out.
Easy enough right?

[crazeetxn]

Too bad you don't have access to a lift. I've seen guys swap trannies, and it can be done, but man...

What's the price diff between him doing it and you doing it?

Only advice I can throw out is if you have and Ebrock 1406, get the adapter plate from bowtie. Worked like a charm.

And BE CAREFUL. Those suckers are heavy.

[piecesparts]

When you drop the tranny, you will want to take the speedometer cable off of the case, take the driveline off, pull the dipstick, after taking the lower flexplate/starter cover pan off, then remove the three bolts from the torque converter that connect it to the engine flex plate, then pull the four bolts out of the tranny that holds it to the engine. You will want a tranny jack or a regular floor jack with a tranny plate converter on it, to move the tranny back and down. This will be a little heavy as there are about 14 quarts of tranny fluid inside it.

Ask your rebuilder if he has one of the plastic shaft protectors for the rear output shaft, to help keep the fluid in the tranny. If not, then plan a large puddle on the floor. Also, once out the torque converter is best left in, until it is delivered to the rebuilder, due to there is a couple quarts of fluid inside it. Stick the dipstick back in, or put a rubber plug into the hole, once again more fluid gets away.

[walls]

Thanks for the advice.
I know I'm getting a little ahead of myself but, when reinstalling, do I just reverse the process or is there something else I'll need to do?
I'll talk to the re-builder too of course.

[crazeetxn]

Reverse process is good. Main thing will be getting it to line up with the block so you can get it screwed in. Then put the cross member up. This way you can remove the jack to get to the speedo cable, lock-up wiring, lines and tv cable. Then torque converter, cover pan, drive shaft.