Wiring Help

[davepl]

IIRC, the purple is the heavy gauge wire that will ultimately be called upon to fire the solenoid and engage the starter.

That wire has to be darned near perfect. Corrosion, a bad splice, marginal neutral safety switch, or pretty much anything that's not near superconducting can cause the solenoid not to engage, causing a no-start. There's no click or anything, just dead. Usually doesn't happen until the engine and starter are hot though.

The idiot lights are usually switched ground, so cutting wires would just prevent them from lighting, not vice versa.

The long and short of it is that the NSS has two circuits - one for the backup lights and one for neutral/park. Green is the lights. Purple is the starter.

[tonyr0774]

Ok, an update.

As previously mentioned with my initial post the PO of my 68 K20 butchered the engine wiring harness. He cut all of the wires at the firewall connector with the exception of the coil wire. He performed a shoddy HEI conversion where he spliced a 12 gauge wire into the factory wire coming out of the connector. I cleaned that up by re-pinning it with a fresh 12 gauge wire. I re-pinned the following. Oil pressure sensor=20 gauge, coolant temp sensor=20 gauge, starter wire=12 gauge, brake sensor=16 gauge.

The triple aftermarket gauge cluster has gauges for the temp, oil and amperage. The amperage was never hooked up but my dummy light has always worked. The oil has always and is currently working and the temp used to work but has not worked for some time now. The temp gauge is the type that I have to replace it with a new on that is a sensor, wire, gauge kit. I plan to do this and therefore the original BOSS on the passenger side of the block is and will be occupied by the gauge sensor.

In order to restore the factory lights I decided to purchase a water neck with sensor housing in it. The water neck is aluminum I believe. I purchased a new dummy light sensor, installed it into the new water neck and installed the water neck onto my aluminum Edelbrock intake manifold. The problem is now my temp light in the factory gauge cluster is on and I don't know why. I am fairly certain that my motor is not overheated as it never had any issues prior to restoring the warning light. I am also fairly certain that the thermostat I recently purchased was the correct temp=185 degrees I think. Is the fact that the manifold and water neck both aluminum maybe the cause? I would certainly hate to do away with the warning light considering the time and money spent on fashioning a brand new engine wiring harness. Also, years ago I installed one of those aftermarket brass proportioning valve. I never concerned myself with the brake sensor given the fact that the wire had been cut by the PO. Now that I have re-wired the harness with the factory plug I have discovered that the plug does not fit the proportioning valve sensor. I will provide some pictures tomorrow to give a better depiction of what I am talking about.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks