disk brake conversion?

[krazy_texan]

i am more than likely going to be getting a new frame for my truck and was wondering about the disk brake conversion as it is a 67 frame with drums on it, am i able to remove the whole spindle and disk with everything but tire on it and put it on the other frame. I am going to do this after i have the frame sandblasted and repainted, i am thinking to if i can afford it i might replace all the brake lines and everything, but more than likely will use the one that i have on my truck already just switch everything over to the other frame.

[gonebad2]

If it was mine, I would completely take all of the suspension components apart prior to sandblasting. If you don't, sand from the high pressure sandblaster will get under the boots and destroy everything that has a grease fitting on it. If you don't have experience removing coil springs, it might be a good idea to have a person with experience help you. If the original brake lines are still in good shape, go ahead and re-use them. Be sure to use a tubing wrench or it's likely you will round off the fittings. Remember to check the rubber hoses closely for cracking or swelling. It's hard work to take all of the suspension parts off but well worth it. Just make sure you take all of the necessary safety precautions and you'll be just fine....Good Luck

[krazy_texan]

i was going to take everything that is removable off of the chassis before i get it blasted but i was just wondering about the brake thing.

[gonebad2]

You can remove the spindle and rotor as a one piece unit. Just remove the nuts from the upper and lower control arms, the outer tie rod ends and the rubber brake lines. I would still disassemble the rotors from the spindles. Then you can inspect the bearings and inner seals. Be careful..The springs pack one hell of a punch. If you have a bare frame with no engine, tranny or body, you will need to use a spring compressor. When you do the swap, remember that the '67 ball joints are different. The lower ball joints need to be pressed out. The uppers can be drilled out if they still have the factory rivets. You going to press the lower ball joints out yourself or take them somewhere and have it done? Either way, now would be a good time to get new lower ball joints installed if the used ones are more than a few years old. Make sure the ball joint stud fits your new disc spindle before having it pressed in the lower "A" arm. I once got a set of lower balljoints and one was mislabled. I caught it before I installed it but I would have been pissed if I would have found it after it was installed.

[1970blazin]

Sorry to break thread here, but gonebad2- when are you gonna get an avatar?

[perrosinpata@aol.com]

Amen to that testing my avatar

[gonebad2]

Originally posted by 1970blazin
Sorry to break thread here, but gonebad2- when are you gonna get an avatar?

I know, I need to get one. I don't have photo software to reduce a pic down to the size that is allowed for an avatar. Hopefully soon though.

[1970blazin]

I just reduced mine in the paint program! Email me your pic at Averyarc@comcast.net and I will have it back to you in 5 minutes!

[1970blazin]

Gonebad- here ya go!!!

[doug72]

Here is an idea for you. I have some spare frames. I live about 50 miles west of you in Breckenridge. Why don't you buy a disc brake frame from me and blast and paint it and then just swap yours out.

I have both short and long frames. You would also have 5 bolt pattern wheels as part of this conversion. Yes, I do have 5 lug rally wheels too.

Doug

[krazy_texan]

i have already been talking to someone about buying his frame from him, plus it has a cab to, oh and i am looking for 3/4 ton gear and that is what his frame is, thanks though

[GloryHound]

I've never tried it myself, but from what I understand you could just unbolt the hole cross member and put the other in. Looking in the factory assembly manual and it looks like no changes where made to the actual cross member from 67 to 72. So it should work and that way if your ball joints are still good you won't have to worry about pressing new ones in! This method might save you a couple of bucks, but refinishing the cross member will take a lot more time since you will not be able to sandblast it. You'll have to do it all with wire brushes being very careful when you get around the rubber parts and seals. Also while your doing that you might want to keep a shop vac running and pulling the small particles away instead of letting them fly around and risk getting one in a seal or bearing. This is just a thought, I've never tried it myself. I just bought everything new except the crossmember. That way I can remove everything from the cross member sand blast it then all the other parts, ie spindles, ball joints, a-arms, springs, rubber..., will not need any refinishing done to it. I'm going new with everything I can on my truck. Granted, its going to take me ten years before I'll be able to afford everything and get the truck fully assembled, but when I'm done I'll have a nice ride!

[gonebad2]

The entire crossmember can be removed as one piece and bolted onto another frame. But, you're right, it is a real pain to clean and detail. It might also be good for a guy that doesn't have alot experience yet when it comes to pulling springs out....Let us know which way you're going to go with this.

[krazy_texan]

well either way i was going to replace every piece of rubber on the truck, i dont know which path i will take, i might take my 71 crossmember apart and blast it, like i said i am not sure yet