Rear susspension rebuild

[gmebey]

Now that I'm nearing the end of rebuilding the front end, I'm preparing to start into the rear. With that I'm in search of advice.

My truck is a stock 1969 C20 with coil springs and the Eaton H052 rear end.

Sorry for the long list of questions, but after experiencing the challenges with the front I'm trying to be more prepared.

1) What bushings should I plan to change and how many are there? I think 4, two in the lead of the trailing arms and two in the cross link?

2) What is a good source for the bushings?

3) What is the real name for the cross link? I'm can't find any bushings and think I'm searching using the wrong name for it.

4) Does anyone know the NAPA part numbers for the big u-bolts?

5) The big one. I think my trailing arms are in good shape with the exception of the top reinforcement plate is lifted on one. Is it advised to clean it up and weld it back down or use bolts.

6) Please share anything I may have over looked.

[88Ironduke]

I'll try to help out a bit here.

Trailing arm bushings in the front the end of each arm, 1 very large rubber bushing inside of a cup, 2 total. The cross link is actually a pan hard bar. It keeps the rear axel assembly centered under the truck.

Prothane bushing are what I used. I dropped the trailing arms and get the bearing cups good and hot with a gas torch, MAP is hotter/preferred over propane but they both work. Pop them buggers out, beware the flaming ball of buring rubber that may go three or four feet. Burn'em outside, its stinks and is messy. Same applies to the panhard bar bushings. Burn'em out of the cups. Clean up the bushing cups, brillo pad or heavy steel wool, just clean them. Freeze the bushings if you feel the need to shrink'em down. They should be able to just about push in the cleaned cups by hand. They may need a bit lubrication to go. A C-clamp might be a required tool to press them in place the final bit. Its not bad to do.

The big bolts on the front end of the trailing arms are a different story. I worked mine with wire brush to a semi-rusts free state. Soak'em with oil/WD-40 or what ever you got for a few days. It might help... It might not. I happened to have a 1 1/16" box end wrench and socket that fit them perfectly and was able to extract them big bolts from their home. If it doesn't work out, an angle grinder or cut off wheel may be the tool of choice. The U bolts are in the same PITA category. Clean, soak, curse, repeat as necessary. Couldn't tell you the part numbers, but if changing them out cut them off. Its faster than taking them out and there is far less cursing. I have no idea on the reinforcement plates, my trucks a 1/2 ton and doesn't have them. Or maybe it should?

Good luck.

88Ironduke

[72bowtiestepper]

I recently did this job on my 72 C-10. Got all my parts from Classic Parts of America. ( Poly bushings for the trailing arms & track bar...also new U-bolts)
I had to cut the old u-bolts off.....much easier than trying to get the nuts off.
Once off...check your trailing arms close for rust damage...I ended up welding on some reinforcment plates on both of mine for piece of mind. Not really too hard of a job...a BFH and torch for heating rusted nuts & bolts will be your friend.

[72kool]

i have not done the entire rear suspension on my 72 yet but have replaced a trailing arm. it all depends how rusted it is but you will want a bfh , air hammer , wd40 , and a cutting wheel. it will save you alot of time and cursing to just cut and replace the u-bolts. alot of guys i have talked to just rewelded the plate and also put a bead down the seam on the top. its a good idea to prevent rust from starting on the inside of that seam and rusting from the inside out. thats what happened to mine and why i had to replace it. the hardest part will be getting the bottom bolt on the coil to come out without breaking. that is the biggest rust filled hole on all of these trucks out here ive seen. soak it in wd40 and then do it again and then one more time. as far as the rear tracking arm that goes from the axle up, lmc sells them new with the bushings in them ready to bolt on i believe and are only $50

[gmebey]

Thanks for the help.

I have one more question. If I have trailing arms sandblasted..... Is regular paint ok or should I spring for powder coat?

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by gmebey

Thanks for the help.

I have one more question. If I have trailing arms sandblasted..... Is regular paint ok or should I spring for powder coat?

Unless you are building a show truck, I would vote for paint...I have heard powder coat can chip & start rusting underneath the coating. You can always touch up the paint. Try POR-15 or one of the other products out there..I have had good results with it.

[PanelDeland]

Forget WD use a real penetrating oil like PB Blaster, Kroil or a homemade mix of half ATF and half Acetone. The WD does little as a penetrator. The WD designation stands for Water Dispersant.

[gmebey]

After calling around I estimated the sandblasting to be $100-$150 for both arms

I just looked up the POR-15, and all I to to say is WOW. If it is 1/2 as good as it sounds I might be able to just degrease and wire wheel the rust scales. Any thoughts?

[72kool]

ive used the the por-15 before on my nova and loved it imo. it was easy to prep for and went on easy. looked really good afterwards

[72bowtiestepper]

Originally Posted by gmebey

After calling around I estimated the sandblasting to be $100-$150 for both arms

I just looked up the POR-15, and all I to to say is WOW. If it is 1/2 as good as it sounds I might be able to just degrease and wire wheel the rust scales. Any thoughts?

That's what I did & they came out fine....before painting be sure to prep with grease & wax remover to remove any residue. Wear latex gloves too...that stuff is a B..ch to get off your hands !

[Trophy truck]

Can any of you guys help me out?? I'm installing a rear sway bar from CPP on my 1970 C10 pickup. Does the sway bar sit level with the ground? Or should it angle down towards the back? Does it matter?

[gmebey]

I'm not sure, but that is a great question since I'm getting ready to rebuild mine.

Here is a picture of a stock setup of a 3/4 ton, prior to tear down.

Sorry for the poor quality, but I really at stink taking pictures. Plus it is flipped do to using a camera phone.

[bollybib]

[gmebey]

Jim, thanks for the edit. Since I'm uploading from a phone I couldn't rotate it.

BTW I notice your daily driver is about the same model I'm working