First try at replacing a clutch - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

JulioK · 11-12-2014, 10:25 PM

Seems I am going to have to replace this clutch. I've only had this truck about eight months and I don't really know what the history of the clutch is. I do know that it's gotten hard to shift and makes noises when stopped with the clutch down. My best description of the noise is when you're pushing a lawn mower and you accidentally run over a piece of paper. The noise makes me think something may have broken off the clutch And is flying around inside the bell. I've tried lengthening the clutch Rod Adjustment and that made it shift a little easier but I still have the noise and struggle to get it in gear when stopped. I have a few questions pardon me if I don't know the proper terminology cuz I have zero training and am basically teaching myself this stuff

I have a three speed transmission and it looks like two of the bolts go in to it from inside of the bell housing. I assume that I have to take the pan off the bottom of the bell housing and then I should be able to get to those bolt heads from inside?

Is it better to remove the pins on the shifter linkage arms or unbolt the bolts that go through the shifter arms into the transmission when removing the transmission?

I will likely pick up a clutch kit after I've taken it all apart. Is there a recommended brand? I'm not looking for high speed our performance just solid functionality.

Are there preventive maintenance things I should consider doing since I'm going to have the transmission and clutch out?

I'm sure I'll have more questions and appreciate the input.

**truckdude239** · 11-12-2014, 10:40 PM

Get a good clutch not the house brand my stores sell i burned out a store band clu5ch in 3,000 miles. Installed a heavy duty ac delo clutch it had around 50k on it when i started my ls swap. These trucks are heavy hard on a clutch

Wrenchbender Ret · 11-12-2014, 10:48 PM

You nailed it about the bolts come out from the inside. I don't think you are going to have any problems.
Remove the keepers or cotter pins from the shift rods rather the taking off the levers.
I have real good luck with Carquest clutches. You may want to change the lube in the trans. & rear end while you are under there. If you drain the trans. before you pull it you wont get it all over yourself or the floor. If any of the trans seals are leaking now is the time to replace them. If there are any leaks in the engine that are getting oil on the clutch, you need to fix them. Oil can ruin a clutch.

PanelDeland · 11-12-2014, 11:17 PM

Check the flywheel for checking, glazing or cracking. It probably should be surfaced to get the best out of a new clutch.

**truckster** · 11-12-2014, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

Check the flywheel for checking, glazing or cracking. It probably should be surfaced to get the best out of a new clutch.

Definitely, surface the flywheel, even if you don't think it needs it. Your clutch will last longer. You need a clutch disk and pressure plate, a pilot bearing, and a throwout bearing. You also should buy a clutch guide; it will make installation a whole lot easier.

An old mechanic's trick to remove the pilot bearing is to pack it with grease, then place a bolt or a punch close to the inside diameter in the bearing and give it a smack with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will drive the pilot bearing out.

Make sure you follow any recommended torque sequence and specs when you're reinstalling the clutch.

JulioK · 11-13-2014, 12:22 AM

I've not even started but have a few more questions

- there is an electrical connection(spade) next to one of the shifter levers with nothing connected. What was supposed to be there?

-where can I find the recommended torque info for the clutch related bolts?

-the truck does lose some oil. Drips from the cover under the bell. What is the likelihood I am going to find that the oil leak will require an engine tear down to locate?

Thx

jhwkns · 11-13-2014, 10:36 AM

The electrical connection is your reverse lights. If you plan to keep your truck for a while, get one with a lifetime warranty. In the last 17 years I've replaced mine three times for free. Torque Specs.

Prescott · 11-13-2014, 12:02 PM

It is possible that you only need a new throwout bearing. I don't know what your financial approach to this project is, but there was a day when I would drop a tranny just to fix what was broken (because buying parts was prohibitive for my wallet), and leave a clutch alone if it's not slipping. Now, my time is worth more than parts, so if I tear it down, it's getting rebuilt fully.

If you've got oil in your clutch, you've got to figure out where it's coming from and fix it. It could be a trans seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, or if you're lucky, it's a bad pcv hose that's just dripping down the bellhousing and not on your clutch at all.

If you are replacing the disk and pressure plate, I agree that name brand parts make a difference in the long run. Also know that aftermarket "muscle car" and "racing" clutches may have considerably more pedal effort required to operate, which can make them strong but hard to live with.

Expensive lessons are not soon forgotten

11-12-2014, 10:25 PM	#1
JulioK Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Brentwood, Tn Posts: 33	First try at replacing a clutch Seems I am going to have to replace this clutch. I've only had this truck about eight months and I don't really know what the history of the clutch is. I do know that it's gotten hard to shift and makes noises when stopped with the clutch down. My best description of the noise is when you're pushing a lawn mower and you accidentally run over a piece of paper. The noise makes me think something may have broken off the clutch And is flying around inside the bell. I've tried lengthening the clutch Rod Adjustment and that made it shift a little easier but I still have the noise and struggle to get it in gear when stopped. I have a few questions pardon me if I don't know the proper terminology cuz I have zero training and am basically teaching myself this stuff I have a three speed transmission and it looks like two of the bolts go in to it from inside of the bell housing. I assume that I have to take the pan off the bottom of the bell housing and then I should be able to get to those bolt heads from inside? Is it better to remove the pins on the shifter linkage arms or unbolt the bolts that go through the shifter arms into the transmission when removing the transmission? I will likely pick up a clutch kit after I've taken it all apart. Is there a recommended brand? I'm not looking for high speed our performance just solid functionality. Are there preventive maintenance things I should consider doing since I'm going to have the transmission and clutch out? I'm sure I'll have more questions and appreciate the input. __________________ 1972 c10 Stepside lwb 307 2bbl

11-12-2014, 10:40 PM	#2
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,233	Re: First try at replacing a clutch Get a good clutch not the house brand my stores sell i burned out a store band clu5ch in 3,000 miles. Installed a heavy duty ac delo clutch it had around 50k on it when i started my ls swap. These trucks are heavy hard on a clutch __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

11-12-2014, 10:48 PM	#3
Wrenchbender Ret Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Overland Park, Ks. Posts: 5,207	Re: First try at replacing a clutch You nailed it about the bolts come out from the inside. I don't think you are going to have any problems. Remove the keepers or cotter pins from the shift rods rather the taking off the levers. I have real good luck with Carquest clutches. You may want to change the lube in the trans. & rear end while you are under there. If you drain the trans. before you pull it you wont get it all over yourself or the floor. If any of the trans seals are leaking now is the time to replace them. If there are any leaks in the engine that are getting oil on the clutch, you need to fix them. Oil can ruin a clutch.

11-12-2014, 11:17 PM	#4
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	Re: First try at replacing a clutch Check the flywheel for checking, glazing or cracking. It probably should be surfaced to get the best out of a new clutch. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

11-13-2014, 12:22 AM	#6
JulioK Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Brentwood, Tn Posts: 33	Re: First try at replacing a clutch I've not even started but have a few more questions - there is an electrical connection(spade) next to one of the shifter levers with nothing connected. What was supposed to be there? -where can I find the recommended torque info for the clutch related bolts? -the truck does lose some oil. Drips from the cover under the bell. What is the likelihood I am going to find that the oil leak will require an engine tear down to locate? Thx __________________ 1972 c10 Stepside lwb 307 2bbl

11-13-2014, 10:36 AM	#7
jhwkns Registered Cruiser Join Date: May 2002 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 2,230	Re: First try at replacing a clutch The electrical connection is your reverse lights. If you plan to keep your truck for a while, get one with a lifetime warranty. In the last 17 years I've replaced mine three times for free. Torque Specs. __________________ I intend to live forever. So far, so good.

11-13-2014, 12:02 PM	#8
Prescott Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Prescott AZ Posts: 31	Re: First try at replacing a clutch It is possible that you only need a new throwout bearing. I don't know what your financial approach to this project is, but there was a day when I would drop a tranny just to fix what was broken (because buying parts was prohibitive for my wallet), and leave a clutch alone if it's not slipping. Now, my time is worth more than parts, so if I tear it down, it's getting rebuilt fully. If you've got oil in your clutch, you've got to figure out where it's coming from and fix it. It could be a trans seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, or if you're lucky, it's a bad pcv hose that's just dripping down the bellhousing and not on your clutch at all. If you are replacing the disk and pressure plate, I agree that name brand parts make a difference in the long run. Also know that aftermarket "muscle car" and "racing" clutches may have considerably more pedal effort required to operate, which can make them strong but hard to live with. Expensive lessons are not soon forgotten



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