Dana 44 Refresh First timer

[swissarmychainsaw]

Hey gang,
I'm about to rebuild the front end on my 1973 Suburban K10.

I have realized I need a good manual, can you recommend one?
(I have a "Haynes" but find it pretty lacking)

Attempting to disassemble my front axles, I find this:




All the exploded diagrams I have seen show a snap ring as the next thing to come out, but this looks like you put a 6 point socket, something like this:



and unscrew it. No?

Also, how do you like that blue silicon goo the PO put in there? Nice huh?

I plan on doing a refresh:
Ball Joints
Axle u-joints
Axle shaft seals (here is where I need the Dana 44 manual!)
And maybe the tie rods ends as well.

Here is the hunk of man-hood we call "Mr. Baloo"




Brake Caliper Bolts: 3/8 Hex
Locker Cover: 9/64


Resources:
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-14.html
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=430367&page=5
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=595019

[ryanroo]

there is a snap ring that you can just see in the pic, located on the end of the stub shaft. pop that sucker off and you should be able to pull the guts out. it looks as though you have already pulled the large internal snap ring that goes around the hub casting outside of the splines. if not, pull that before you try to pop the aluminum guts out. guts is the technical term for that i'm sure.

if you thread a couple of the bolts back in the aluminum chunk it helps pull it out.

i like to solvent wash the parts. to remove the RTV you will likely need to use a brush or fingers.

[swissarmychainsaw]

yep, spot on!

[swissarmychainsaw]

Been reading "how-tos" on the web and no one mentions this next problem so I'm assuming its not that common...

Got one of these:


and got the first nut off, but the washer is stuck in there.

This is not my pic but it shows you what I'm talking about:


That middle piece the key-slot washer won't budge. I've got picks on it and pulling and it is stuck.

I sprayed some brake cleaner in there so I could see what I was dealing with.

This washer has a Key you can see in the pic. The Nut behind it has a locking stud which is just opposite the "key".

So problem seems to be that the whole washer has turned some and locked the key into the slot (which is really the threads of the spindle).

Anyone have suggestions on getting that free?

I'm thinking about getting some stronger picks. Mine are like dental pics, I think I need some that have "screwdriver" style handles.

How do I turn this thing to free it though??

[61K10]

I had to use two picks at the same time to pull it out. it wasn't stuck but it would get cocked if pulled with one pick. mine was a early closed knuckle axle, but the same setup.

[swissarmychainsaw]

Turns out I just needed a bigger pick set.



Course then it was the next thing! Inboard bearing would not pull off by hand so back to the parts store!


Penetrating oil is your friend:


A couple of gentle whacks with a hammer and small chisel an the spindle popped right off.

Shaft Came out no problem:


These turn smoothly but are going to get replaced.




This concerns me, whaddaya think?
This is the differential side of the shaft, where the seal rides (or maybe bearing)
Use it or replace?



Not any goo in there:



This is the axle right as I pulled it out. Notice the grease on it. Does not seam to be leaking gear oil, but not sure...


Splines look healthy:

[swissarmychainsaw]

Here is the spindle. I'm not sure if it looks ok or not.
It obviously has some wear on it.

PS you can see bigger images of all these here: http://swissarmychainsaw.smugmug.com...rontendrebuild



This looks like a hammer mark!



Inner Bearing area


Is this where the hub dust seal rides?


A good sized flat spot... more hammering from a long lost PO?



Marked but not rough.



Is this good for another 40 years or should I do something with it?
Emory paper where the bearings sit?

Thanks all!

[Twisted78SS]

Here is the Dana site where you can find all the manuals
http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/demenu.aspx

The Dana 44 Overhaul one is Here in PDF format

[swamp rat]

I think your hubs look servicable, clean the dings up with a little file, then take some scotchbrite in hand and polishup the journals a bit. I wouldn't worry too much about the axle shaft inner seal surfaces ether as long as the axles and tubes are not saturated with gear lube, just hit them with some scotchbrite.

Pull the pumpkin paying attention to the carrier bearing cap orientation and change the inner seals.

I did also clean my inner axle tube by using a piece of ready rod with a large flat washer just a bit smaller than the inner diameter of the axle tube, i ground the washer on one side to match the inner tube diameter then double nutted it to the ready rod, used it to drag out any dirt that was inside the tube, then i used a broom handle with rag soaked in cleaner and pushed then thru a few times before i cleaned the inside of the diff housing.

One more thing, the loc nuts holding the hub on are supposed to be changed out, not re-used, they are steel loc nuts, do not use Niloc nuts with the nylon material. I was able to find Grade 5 steel loc nuts at my local hardware store cheaper than the nuts the local NAPA could get for me

['68 Newtricks]

True Value hardware has those pinch nuts. They have a flanged pinch nut too.

looks good!

[ryanroo]

agreed on the stover nuts. i bought a bag of 100 from Mcmaster carr for 10 bucks. no need to re-use the old ones at that price.

[msgross]

my napa guy sold me nuts for a chevy 350 crank (cap that holds bearings) and they worked great...

There is a needled bearing inside that spindle that needs to be changed, I think I rented a blind hole bearing puller from autozone