?s about everything

[krazy_texan]

what is good for getting up old carpet glue out of the cab of my truck?

will power brakes and power steering bolt directly onto a truck that did not have them?

will any year door fit any year cab?

are brake lines all the same for discs and for drums?

how do i drain the brake fluid out a system so i can put it on another truck?

what is good for painting a frame with that is cheap and readily available?

what works good for removing grease off of the frame rails and cross members?


thank you guys for your help, like I said in my other post i have until march 15 to put my truck together and i am going to try and get something done in the morning before i go to work and i am also between 3 and 4 when i have to go to my next job, thanks all you guys for what help you can give.

[krazy_texan]

oh and someone put a pic up of how a hand ebrake on a 67 truck is mounted please

[krue]

Any door will work on any cab, but 72 doors are a little different (extra screw hole or something).
Power brakes will bolt right up, but make sure you get the rod between pedal and booster, and rod between booster and master cylinder. To drain fluid, just put a small hose on the bleeder screws and drain into a coke bottle. Oven cleaner is good to get grease off of stuff.

[Palf70Step]

I'm told there is a slight difference in the 72 door where the mirrors mount. Other than that the only difference I know about is the window regulators. I believe 67-70 are the same and 71/72 use a longer shaft because of the interrior panels.

Carpet glue. Only thing I know of is a heat gun and scrapper.. From what I have heard the castrol purple cleaner is supposed to take off a lots of stuff, but I haven't tried mine yet.

Far as I know the power brakes and powersteering swap are pretty straight forward. I think on 67 frames you have to massage it a little though for the power steering.

I'm pretty sure that front disk lines are different from the drums. Rears are same though. Rubber lines are different between front discs and drums.

I found the easiest way to drain is loosen the lines from the rubber hose and it should come out. Because of paint areas may eat it.

I did my frame (and many others) with rustolium. After cleaning I sprayed it on, then went back later and brushed on. Took about 4 spray cans and a quart for brush on to do the entire frame, rad support andf underside of cab.

Can't help yu with the e-brake thing.

[Palf70Step]

Dang Krue...Your awake...I need to shorten miy posts I guess ...

[gr8scott51]

Hammerite is a good frame paint. You have to dimple the frame on a 67 to put on power steering. Go to WES's website www.classicheartbeat.com to see how he dimpled the frame on his panel.

[dinnut]

glue.... chisel it off maybe? sand it off? power brakes you need everythign from spindle out and it will bolt on.
power steering... i think there is something on the bottom of the steering column you might have to change but yeah im sure the box and pump will bolt on...
all doors are same except for 72 because of an extra screw under the vent window. and regulator and door panels are different
i dotn know about brake lines. the part up by the master cylinder looks different on power brakes trucks... but you need the rubber hose on the disc brakes comign off the caliper/spindle(forget where it connects to)

a big empty thick water jug should work for brake fluid. i guess just bleed out of old system...
dont know about paint
ive heard oven cleaner works for degreasing....

[Tx Firefighter]

The brake lines on a disc brake truck run in front of the crossmember , and a drum truck, behind the crossmember. Totally different.

All doors will interchange with each other. Slight diferences in the details, but they all bolt in place of each other.

Powersteeing is straight bolt on to any truck but a 67, otherwide, dimple.

Power brakes, bolt on.

[MrGoodpliers]

67-71 doors are all the same, 72 has the screw to keep the top from separating. Not certain for our trucks, but in streetrod circles it is common to use smaller line for disc brakes (I'd be appreciative if someone could post specifics on this since I've swapped discs on my 69). For the frame, a pro turned me on to this a few years ago and I really like it-- GM reconditioning paint. $35 a gallon, no mixing- just pop the lid, stir, strain and squirt on bare metal(that's right, no priming!) I always sandblast the parts first. Nice satin finish like original. Here's a somewhat dusty picture of my frame.

[MrGoodpliers]

67-71 doors are all the same, 72 has the screw to keep the top from separating. Not certain for our trucks, but in streetrod circles it is common to use smaller line for disc brakes (I'd be appreciative if someone could post specifics on this since I've swapped discs on my 69). For the frame, a pro turned me on to this a few years ago and I really like it-- GM reconditioning paint. $35 a gallon, no mixing- just pop the lid, stir, strain and squirt on bare metal(that's right, no priming!) I always sandblast the parts first. Nice satin finish like original. Here's a somewhat dusty picture of my frame.

[krazy_texan]

what would i use to dimple the frame rail for the power steering gear box

[dinnut]

Originally posted by Tx Firefighter
The brake lines on a disc brake truck run in front of the crossmember , and a drum truck, behind the crossmember. Totally different.

All doors will interchange with each other. Slight diferences in the details, but they all bolt in place of each other.

Powersteeing is straight bolt on to any truck but a 67, otherwide, dimple.

Power brakes, bolt on.

is it possible to use the non-power brakes line when upgrading to power brakes?or do you have to move them or get new ones

[gonebad2]

Dinnut, you can use the same brake lines if you are upgrading to power. The major difference in the rubber brake hoses between drums and disc is: The end of the hose that connects to the caliper is a banjo fitting with two copper washers that seal it when the bolt that goes through the center of the fitting is tightened down. On drum brakes, the end that attaches to the wheel cylinder is threaded. I have used the original drumbrake hard lines when converting from drum to disc. But I used Earls flexible stainless brake lines instead of rubber hoses. They are a little bit longer and it is no problem to get them routed without touching anyting.

Try some lacquer thinner on the glue. That stuff will remove just about anything. Just wear some chemical gloves to protect your skin. Otherwise, that stuff goes right to your liver.

To dimple the frame to get the power box to fit: You will need a hotwrench (torch) and a ball pein hammer. Go slow and only bang it in as far as you need to. I have also seen people put 1/8" spacers between the steering box and frame then bolt it up.

Thought of one more thing to try on the glue. I know this will get it off. I have done this many times. Use a small makita type grinder with a wire wheel attached to it. That glue will come off in seconds.

[dinnut]

oh i think im confused. i thought he meant the ones connecting the master cylinder..... i was wondering about those because on p/b truks they seem to go in circles and stuff and wouldnt they be farther ahead?

[gonebad2]

Maybe I'm confused too Dinnut. I'm gettin old and senile ya know. Those lines from the master cylinder will work no problem as long as you are staying with four wheel drum brakes. If you go to disc brakes, it must be changed out. The reason is that you will have to go to a disc drum proportioning valve. One of these days, we will all have to get together and write a step by step on changing from drum to disc and archive it for all to use. This has been a hot topic lately. Hope this clears things up.....Greg

[dinnut]

i didnt know that i had to change out those lines. i thought the prop valve could be changed without replacing those lines. DOH!

where can i get this stuff? as in the prop valve/lines?
and where do the lines connect to coming off of the prop valve? i mean how much line am i going to get when i buy this?

[gonebad2]

Post a request on the parts board. Here is what you want to ask for: Disc brake proportioning valve and also the short brake lines that attach from the proportioning valve to the master cylinder. You will also need the mounting bracket for the valve. Those lines can sometimes be hard to find because alot of people damage them when they remove them. Also, the fittings are kind of odd. I mean on some of them, they use a 3/16"tube but the threaded portion is 9/16". If you can't find the short tubes, let me know. I will make some for you and send them in the mail. I got tired of never having the right tubing nuts and went to the inline tubing website and went a little crazy. I bought a huge assortment (every combo they offered) and loaded up my parts bin. By the time I checked out, I spent a little over $400.00 on fittings. I have alot of extra. So I would have no problem helping you out with the short tubes you need. Just let me know. I'll even put the nuts on and make the double inverted flare on both ends. You should be able to use the original lines that go from the proportioning valve, down to the frame and feed both the front and rear brakes.

[dinnut]

ok thanks. is the bracket different between 67-70 and 71-72?

[gonebad2]

Yeah, it is because they didn't offer discs until '71. The one you have on your truck now is for a dristribution block. It's considerably smaller than a proportioning valve. I'll tell you what, If you can wait about two weeks, I will send you a bracket for your prop valve. Just PM me the address you would like it sent to.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Hey dinnut I got a summit adjustable prop valve That I have been tring to see you still need a valve??

[gonebad2]

If he uses only the adjustable prop valve, he will need to install an inline 10 pound residual valve to the rear drums. The residual valve will be needed to keep the drum shoes out close to the drums so you will maintain a high firm pedal. Dinnut, don't forget, you will also need a master cylinder for a disc / drum setup. The drum / drum master cylinder has different (smaller) internal valving that is not adequate for disc / drum. The adjustable prop valve works awesome for fine tuning your braking system. I always install one. It's really worth the extra time and $$$.

[gonebad2]

One of the best sources of information for brakes is a catalog published by a company called Master Power Brakes. It is loaded with all the info you need. I got mine free when I bought a booster from them. Otherwise they charge $5.00 if you're not placing an order. Even if you have to pay the $5.00, it's way worth it. Here is their web address if anyone is interested.
www.mpbrakes.com

[Tx Firefighter]

Gonebad, you're doing him a solid by fabbing up those lines for him.

The lines after the prop valve are different too though. They won't screw into the new prop valve. The disc valve uses different sized fittings than the drum one does.

On this truck, I needed to find two adapters, which took a lot of looking.

[Blue Beard]

I've heard of people using oven cleaner for cleaning the glue off.......don't know if it works for sure.........

If you are doing the entire frame off the truck.....alot of guys are powder coading the frame...

[gonebad2]

I just bought a huge assortment of tube nuts. I have all of those odd sized ones like when they use 3/16" tubing but the threaded portion is 9/16". I can make him a set of short tubes that won't require adapters to fit...Dinniut is a pretty good kid. I don't mind helping him out a little.

Originally posted by Tx Firefighter



Gonebad, you're doing him a solid by fabbing up those lines for him.

The lines after the prop valve are different too though. They won't screw into the new prop valve. The disc valve uses different sized fittings than the drum one does.

On this truck, I needed to find two adapters, which took a lot of looking.