1952 Chevy with Small Block overheating

[OrrieG]

If timing is suspect use a vacuum gauge to set the timing, maximum vaccum is where the engine is running most efficiently. I did not know if it would work on FI engines and found this:

"Connection of the gauge is made to a simple "manifold" vacuum source. "This must NOT be from a ported vacuum source (a source that pulls vacuum from above the throttle blades) which rises as RPM increases." In most cases, your manifold vacuum source will be a direct manifold fitting, or in some cases you can use the PCV port (larger port on the carb) on a typical carbureted application.

NOTE: Connection to EFI (fuel injected) applications is best done "Tee'd" into the source line. If you are not careful, disconnecting a particular line can affect the idle speed and interrupt information that the ECM needs to see. For this reason it is best to tee into your vacuum source for the gauge connection."

I use a timing light to get it close, then check with a vacuum gauge, usually taking it to max vaccum then retarding just a little bit.

I also think dwscr's suggestion is where you should start, get all the stuff off the radiator and see it runs cooler, at least to eliminate that as a variable.

[Nordic]

Have you tried a new temp gauge? I was using a SW electric gauge and no matter what changes I made it would run 195-210 even with a 160 degee stat. Barrowed an infrared temp checker and all points tested showed about 150 degrees. changed to a mechanical gauge and now shows 160 -170 all the time.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Nordic

Have you tried a new temp gauge? I was using a SW electric gauge and no matter what changes I made it would run 195-210 even with a 160 degee stat. Barrowed an infrared temp checker and all points tested showed about 150 degrees. changed to a mechanical gauge and now shows 160 -170 all the time.

You never know, that would be sweet huh! Yeah, you can't FOCUS on something and block out the rest. The gauge makes a lot more sense than something on the motor because it's done the same thing with two different motors!

Brian

[48fordf1]

OK, so I've been out of town for a while and got to work on the truck today. I spent some time trying to adjust timing using vacuum instead of timing marks. I adjusted the distributor until I got the best vacuum I could and then backed off. Ran down the road and no pinging. It ran good, but then it did before. I bet I moved it probably, according to the new balancer, 20-30 degrees. Kinda odd. DIdn't solve my heating problem, won't know til later if I helps on fuel mileage.
I replaced the thermostat with a high flow 180F thermostat, and then
I removed the 850$ Walker Z series radiator and replaced it with one from Engineered Cooling Products. I ordered a 2 row, 1" tube, and they shipped me a 3 row radiator. No notice, didn't ask if it was alright, nothing. Only acknowledged it after I called them and asked WTF. They stated they were out of 2 row and just shipped the 3 row. Didn't want to install it because then I own it. But, I'm tired of not solving my problem. I put just the radiator in with a 2400CFM 16" fan as a puller. It worked just as good, if not better. So, I think I will sell the Walker on Ebay at a reduced price.

However, still have a heating problem if I sit idled with AC running. Wondering if the opening in the radiator support below the radiator is causing air to be recirculated back around, instead of just cool fresh air? Might try to block that off.

[OrrieG]

I'd check the gauge too, my Chevelle DD started running hot two years ago after I put in a new radiator. Went thru the drill only to find the 15 year old gauge had decided to start reading 12-15 degrees hot.

[Sethmark]

With all due respect, vacuum is for setting idle on the carb, not timing. If you're wondering if your timing marks are right, use a piston stop and remark the balancer. Just because you can't hear the ping doesn't mean it's not causing damage.

[OrrieG]

Google it if you don't believe me, vacuum is used to set timing. It can also tell you if you have a vacuum leak, valve issues, worn rings, and other stuff. I timed a lot of engines with one before I owned a timing light. My old school Chiltons has a whole trouble shooting section dedicated to using the vacuum gauge.

[Sethmark]

I believe it and have tried it....

[48fordf1]

Well, I've been pretty busy, but finally got to work on my truck some more. I installed a high flow thermostat, raised my fuel pressure up to around 20-21 psi as recommended for my fuel injection, and then readjusted timing. I have read where many people say the small block chevy really likes 54Degrees of total advance (initial+Mechanical+Vacuum). So, I initially had 12degrees at idle, then 29degrees when vacuum disconnected at 3000 rpm, so since I wasn't able to adjust the vacuum canister to get me to 54 at 3000 rpm, I ended up adjusting my initial to 17BTDC. This gave me a final of 54 degrees with vacuum advance. Runs alot cooler, but still has swings it it, which leads me to believe it still doesn't have an excessive amount of capacity and probably won't love traffic with the air on. Will pull camper later next week and see how it does. Hopefully Fuel Mileage will improve as well. Thanks for everyones input.

[NEWFISHER]

Thanks for reporting back.

[48fordf1]

Well, Once again, made more changes in an attempt to improve MPG and lower my temps when at speed. I stopped by Summit after work and picked up a new vacuum canister and recurve kit for the Jegs Distributor I got with my 260HP 350 Chevy package I bought from Jegs. I repalced the canister and dialed it all the way back, then replaced the weights and put the light springs in the distributor. Set my initial timing at 12BTDC and with vacuum advance unhooked, it was right on the money at 36BTDC, which is what Jegs recommended when I called them. I hooked up vacuum advance and added about 2-3 more to the timing from it. Runs cooler than ever, even with AC on high and the condenser fan off while going down the road. Will Tow my camper this week, so will be able to see if this is the final answer.

Never would have thought that if I purchased a brand new distributor, I would have to rebuild/recurve it for a brand new motor. I sure hope this long saga ends, I feel like I'm still fooling around with flathead F**d's. Thanks for all the input.

[48fordf1]

I just completed my campin trip, towing my camper about 90 miles each way, in 90degree temps, with AC on the whole time. Didnt have any overheating problems at all. Didnt have to turn AC off. Cant say I'd want to be in stop and go traffic, but it was definately an improvement. I contribute the most change to rebuilding the 'new' distributor and getting the total advance right. Im sure the 3 row aluminum radiator had an effect also. Now, to improve mpg. Thanks for the help.

[Donaldo]

What is your fan set up, are you running mechanical off the water pump or electric fan(s) ? Got one on the AC condenser, binary or trinary switched ?

[48fordf1]

I have a 16" puller on the radiator and a 16" pusher on the condenser. Radiator fan runs all the time, condenser fan is on a switch with a relay. I pretty much keep it on all the time.

[Gates72ss]

Yep i had the same issue for the longest time...With that big ol grill in the front you would think that air would be plentiful but it isn't, the under hood temps of my truck were getting crazy at one point..I have a be-cool alum radiator , with electric pusher fan and it still wasn't enough..Had to ad a puller too,it would run awesome until it got to temp 200-210 ish , then start spitting sputtering , thought the coil was giving up, it was just the radiant heat in the bay that was giving me headaches...I tried a cold air intake for a fox body mustang , it was a ram air that used to go down under the bumper on the mustang and ram cold air into the intake, i used it to just ram cold air into the engine bay and it worked awesome until i added the other fan....Just an idea...

[48fordf1]

Yeah, I have been wrestling with this for about 3 months with this new motor setup. I had the same issue with my old wore out motor. I don't mind troubleshooting, I'm just a little tired of throwing money at it. I still see fluctuations after going up a hill or so, but its 100% better. Theres just not alot of room in one of these for a wider or larger radiator. I'm happy now with it, but its been a long time coming.

[shrek55]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

I think you have an air flow issue most 16" fans are so restricted in the back I can't imagine how they can every say they get 3K cfm. If its a Zirgo its no where near 3000. If you have a pusher and a puller you have slowed the are flow significantly. Its a simple idea , if cool air can't get in hot air can't get out. Aluminum does not cool better than copper brass metallurgical properties don't allow it, its just cheaper and lighter and almost anyone can make one and weld it without expensive tooling.

If you can fit a Taurus fan in there try that. Stand it on end with the fan up at the top and cut several 2" holes in the shroud on the lower section and screw a flap of rubber over them. This allows air flow at speed but will suck closed when the fan is on at a stop or low speed. This cools off AC cobra's with 428's and they have a far smaller compartment than a AD.

If it were the transmission pushing heat into the cooling system enough to heat up the engine you'd have a trashed tyranny in short order. Transmissions don't like to be over heated.

Your timing /fuel is not the issue because you have had this with an entirely different engine unless you used the same carb and it is excessively lean. The only similar pieces are engine compartment and radiator opening. Take the fans off entirely and run it on the highway if one close enough and see what happens. It may just cool down as you go faster, This would prove restriction of air flow is the issue.

What year Taurus has the fan at one end of the shroud ??