Suspension/Chassis help....K20

[496 BB]

Ok so its been a long while since Ive done a lift in a square but have done so in a 79 K20 I had years ago...6" all springs. I went with Rough Country then with their shocks and it was exactly that. ROUGH.

Now I got this 85 K20 and have had it for a few years now. Its got what appears to be a sunken 4" spring up front and 4" block in the back with 3" body lift. It looks nowhere near 7" with these 31" tires on it but we about to change that this coming spring.

I plow with this truck. Its not a dd by any means (Have other trucks for that) but is clean. I want to start from the frame up and make it the ultimate rust proof truck. I want a nice clean line truck. Not looking for show quality but more function than anything. Dont worry about the plow aspect either as I have room to move down on the bracket to get a frame within specs. I will also change out to smaller 31" tires for winter to help align.

My questions are as follows:

1) The frame is now painted and in good shape but has surface rust. I will have it blasted. What can I do to make it never rust again. Can I Rhino line or something like that to it? Ive used Por15 before and think it sucks.

2) Where is a good place to get lift kits now? I want 6" not including the body lift. I got mine before at Rockymountain or something. I would like something softer but realize soft and leaf springs is an oxymoron. The older I get I want plusher rides. Maybe more shocks? Whats this shackle lift Im seeing???

Any help is appreciated.

Chris

[83swb]

As far as the frame paint goes I've had good luck with POR15 on my daily driver F150 that I went through, second salty winter and nothing has even started to show signs of peeling etc. But after plenty experience with POR I'm on the same side as you, way over rated, a pain to work with, and its hit and miss as far as durability.

On my C10 project I went with an etching primer and a cheap fleet grade black enamel paint, I'd imagine its the same stuff they paint "large car" (semi) frames with etc., and it was only $40 for a gallon with primer included. I really like it so far but the truck isn't on the road yet and it won't see treated roads so only time will tell, it sure is pretty though.

In my opinion a rubberized bedliner coating belongs just there, in a truck bed. If you go this route you better make sure every last bit of hardware is off the frame, and you leave cross members, shackles and whatever else is hanging off the frame intact. If not then your bolting all of those up and samwiching an 1/8"+ of gooey rubber **** in between them.

As far as leaf springs go, the less leaves you have and the milder the arch, the better the ride. The opposite yields an obvious result. But, I don't have experience with lifts so I can't tell you much more than the basics.

[496 BB]

Yea its painted now from a previous rebuild before I got it. Looks to be some enamel. Im wanting some kind of epoxy based or rubber based. Gotta keep searching I guess.

So for springs could I go 4" rear hangers and 2" blocks on factory springs and 6" front springs? Would that be the best riding setup?

[dfrank]

If you don't want it to EVER rust than galvanizing is the answer. We have two trucks witb galvanized frames and it is what I plan to use on mine but will paint over it. If you want to paint over it than it can't be quenched and the end of the galvanizing process.

[andrewmp6]

If the frame is bare you can have it powder coated.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

If the frame is bare you can have it powder coated.

Powder coating is good for show stuff. It has a tendency to chip and flake off when exposed to the weather and is used though. If it gets any chips in it or flakes off then the truck would have to be torn down to bare frame and sandblasted then re powder coated as with paint and galvanizing it can be touched up. I would NOT reccomend it for a plow truck.

[dieseldawg142]

i too por 15'ed the frame on my crew about 5 yrs ago, prob at least half it's yearly mileage is gravel roads & no roads & it has held up awesome. not one chip or rust anywhere, except the usual rust streaks on the leaf springs.
when i did the BW cut-outs on the crew, i snagged a can of industrial red oxide primer that they paint hi-rise frames with, from work, dont remember the actual name of it, but it's tuff stuff. couple yrs ago was changing the cut-outs & again, there was not one speck of rust after 8 yrs, even on the cut edge (i just slapped some por 15 over top of it when i put the new BW's on)

[496 BB]

I like the galvanizing idea. Im gonna check into that. Just dont like the fact you cant weld over it easily without health hazards but Ive never had to weld onto frame yet so moot point. Thanks for the tips.

What about the lift aspect? Whats best way to get 6" suspension with a decent ride? I dont care about the cheapest way as Im not that type of person. I want it done correctly. Need this truck to last another 30 years for giving it to my son or daughter down the road.

Thanks,
Chris

[dieseldawg142]

smoothest way i can think without going to coilovers would be 6" springs in front & shackle flip with a small block so you can run stock rear leafs

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 496 BB

I like the galvanizing idea. Im gonna check into that. Just dont like the fact you cant weld over it easily without health hazards but Ive never had to weld onto frame yet so moot point. Thanks for the tips.

What about the lift aspect? Whats best way to get 6" suspension with a decent ride? I dont care about the cheapest way as Im not that type of person. I want it done correctly. Need this truck to last another 30 years for giving it to my son or daughter down the road.

Thanks,
Chris

We deal with galvanizing alot for our steel fab shop and no one has grown an extra eye yet. Lol if you have to weld something that is galvanized you usually wire wheel or grind off the galvanizing where you are going to weld then spray with cold galvanizng spray after the weld is finished.

If the frame has undercoating or something like that on it than it would probably be best to have it sandblasted prior to the galvanizng. I am not sure if the acid bath will remove tough undercoating.

[496 BB]

Plan on blasting it first among some other things. What paint would be the best for after its galvanized? Thinking either a flat black, gloss black, or silver.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 496 BB

Plan on blasting it first among some other things. What paint would be the best for after its galvanized? Thinking either a flat black, gloss black, or silver.

A two part epoxy paint. Or you could have them quench it at the end of the process and just leave it as it is. My uncle did that on his 62 willy's jeep truck and it looks great. It will get a little darker over time as the zinc absorbs the aluminum top coat so it won't stay real shiny. It looks good though. I plan on having mine painted semi gloss black after it is galvanized. If you do paint over the galvanizing it is best to brush blast it real quick afterwards so you get a nice smooth finish and help the paint stick. Brush blasting will NOT remove the galvanizing.

[Rogier]

Originally Posted by dfrank

if you don't want it to ever rust than galvanizing is the answer. We have two trucks witb galvanized frames and it is what i plan to use on mine but will paint over it. If you want to paint over it than it can't be quenched and the end of the galvanizing process.

+1

[496 BB]

What media is used on brush blasting? Not familiar with the process.

[dfrank]

Originally Posted by 496 BB

What media is used on brush blasting? Not familiar with the process.

Sand. It is the same as regular sandblasting except you just blast it very lighty very quickly hence the name brush blasting.