12-20-2014, 08:24 PM | #1 |
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Shorten my K20
I have my K20 on the road, and have no issues with turn ability. As I feel it turns tighter then my C20 did by a few feet. Never measured it but at the current off road excursions to the 7-11 it turns tight in my mind.
So what are some opinions on taking a foot or so of wheel base out. Would it ruin, increase, or help out future resale. As eventually I will need a more family orientated truck in 3-5 years. |
12-20-2014, 09:00 PM | #2 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I don't believe they ever made a short bed 3/4 ton, but if you can find a short bed you could cut it down to fit properly. My recollection is there's some shortening both in front of and behind the axle. You'd want to cut a section out of the frame (probably not square), make sure it's straight, bevel, weld, grind, fish plate.
Of course, the wheelbase difference (per wiki) is 18" rather than the foot you were thinking, and then a couple more inches after the wheel. Another option would be to cut down your current bed, either in front of the axle or both in front and behind. Or you could build a flatbed or something for it. However you shorten it you'll need a new driveshaft (or you could modify the existing one), exhaust, and depending on where maybe the gas tank.
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12-20-2014, 09:08 PM | #3 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
x2^
Tx Firefighter shortened his longbed C10, he has some pictures of the process in his build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=622971 As for resale, short beds are far more desirable. |
12-20-2014, 10:01 PM | #4 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I would just shorten the bed I have by taking what ever measurement out of the middle. So I wouldn't do the back to keep a bit of length for the suburban tank I want to do, and get rid of the side saddle I have now.
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12-20-2014, 10:24 PM | #5 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
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12-20-2014, 11:55 PM | #6 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I think a cut and welded frame would be a red flag of caution if I were purchasing said truck.
On the other hand, I have no concerns with the shortening I did on my own truck, but I also recognize that by doing so, I have reduced the value considerably.
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12-21-2014, 01:13 AM | #7 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I would say that if done well and done properly it shouldn't change the value at all. Most people unless you told them wouldn't know a vehicle changed a from a lwb to a swb.
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12-21-2014, 01:24 AM | #8 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Use a k10 ton rolling chassis and move your stuff over. Everything is the same with the exception of the k10's rear drive shaft.
Everything bolts up from k20 to k10 meaning less headaches and a more professional outcome overall. It is a lot of work and your cherry picker will pay for it self. But, there is next to no chance of messing anything up. This will also give you a chance to freshen up the "new" frame and install body mounts on the entire truck instead of just the bed. A painted frame and new body mounts will help with resale. It is up to you how in depth you go in on the "new" chassis. But, by having a sbw chassis you can work on it while still driving the long bed truck doing things such as suspension, steering, any work to the bed, electrical, and competent location, etc. This will cut down your down time moving stuff over and allow you more time to do things right for a cleaner look such as the fuel and brake lines. |
12-21-2014, 03:04 AM | #9 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
On the other hand, some of us would much rather have the thicker material of the 3/4 ton chassis (or thicker and taller for 1 ton).
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12-21-2014, 07:32 AM | #10 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I wouldn't mind a shorten 3/4 ton or 1ton if the frame was braced right after it was cut and welded back together.Swapping everything over to a k10 short bed would be a headache and pricey to do.A short k10 isn't cheap to buy unless its rusted really bad,Same thing if he bought a short bed c10 and made it 4x4 still would be pricey to do.If he wants to stay in a square body truck with a family i would go crew cab with a shorten frame and short bed or a k5 blazer if he don't need a bed to haul stuff.
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12-21-2014, 08:44 AM | #11 | |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Quote:
I personally don't want a cut truck, but if i was changeing vehicles in that short of time i would just leave it. Save yourself the work.
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12-21-2014, 11:37 AM | #12 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I work for a transit company its a common practice to cut and extend the frames when build them never had an issue with one. seen a car show on tv were they made short box out long box only took a 1/2 hr
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12-21-2014, 01:04 PM | #13 | |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Quote:
Where I live, it is illegal to weld a frame. Not saying it isn't done, but it could be a problem if there was an accident, and the insurance was looking to not have to pay out. Our insurance is gov't run - not private - so they kind of have you at their whim. Police (here) can order a vehicle inspection if your vehicle appears to be "questionably legal" or "questionably safe", and a shortened frame would have to also pass a Structural Inspection, which may or may not require an engineer's report as well. I know that in some states, you could put a motor in a whiskey keg and be perfectly legal, but in other areas it's not so easy. If you weren't keeping the truck, I wouldn't change it. If it's your baby but you always wanted a shortbox, I'd change it.
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12-21-2014, 01:14 PM | #14 | |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Quote:
It says to reject if improper or poor welds are used. It doesn't say anything about cutting a welding a frame is not ok. |
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12-21-2014, 07:29 PM | #15 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
That is a very good document - thanks (I will tuck that away for future projects)!
Bottom of section 18, page 9: "Reject if... "Structural components have been sectioned at places other than the factory seams unless proof that the technician who performed the work was trained in industry recognized standards for sectioning is provided "Structural components have been sectioned in or near suspension, engine or drive train mounting locations, at compound shapes or structures, or in collapse or crush zones." But, these are ~my~ provincial rules, not those of the original poster.
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12-22-2014, 12:37 AM | #16 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I will think about it further as I get to the time as my suburban tank swap out. As a few things will go down at the same time while the bed is off.
I like the lwb because I can have a tool box, and still be able to sleep in back. But the short bed looks better to me, but a tool box with sleeping in the back won't work. I probably do it if I can get a bump at resale. As for my next vehicle it is down to a square CC dually, new Colorado, or a Ram. I need a pick up to do side stuff, and I get work van for work. So if I get 15 mpg hwy I am good for longer trips. Like when I go fishing. |
12-22-2014, 05:59 AM | #17 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Resale value is hard to say if you shorten the bed,Some one might love it and buy it.Or someone might not even look at it because they think its a hack job.
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12-22-2014, 02:00 PM | #18 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Sell the truck as it is.
Buy a 4 door CC Remove the bed, sell it, and build a 96" wide 6' long flatbed with a side box. Enough room to haul around the kids, tons of equipment, and will fit in most garages.
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12-22-2014, 07:58 PM | #19 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
96" wide bed? That's way the hell wider than the body...
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12-22-2014, 09:33 PM | #20 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
Also why a flat bed?
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12-23-2014, 12:32 AM | #21 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
I would recomend two options ,
1- get a short bed frame and move all your truck gears to it. 2- sell your truck and get a K5 or c10 4x4. other then that nah ! Cutting the frame is basically burn your money with out even getting worm , If I were you, I'll take one of the above options. |
12-23-2014, 10:25 PM | #22 |
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Re: Shorten my K20
But t why a flat bed? I like regular beds.
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