How much did you spend???

[sympl_67]

I'm trying to get some realistic estimates for getting my truck on the road. How much did you pay to get your truck "on the road"? I'm not looking to keep my truck original as it has already been trashed and pieced together over the years. But how much did it cost you to turn your non-drivable into a drivable?

[67c-20]

it really depends on what is wrong with it. does the engine. run how bad is the body. how much stuff is missing. my personal experiances are wih a 68 gmc that only needed a couple patch panels a righht front fender a water pump and a battery. it never got painted but that was just a driver and i was only in 400 bucks or so including the purchase price of 200 bucks. i am in close to 800 bucks on my 67 probably 1000 when i am donewith paint and all.

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67 k-20 w/327 and a 3speed and 4.57 rear with 17 inch split rims and 9 inch wide rubber(is my current project)

73 blazer 6 inch all spring lift 350/350 with crappy 3.08 gears and 35 inch bfg tires

54 chevy delray .060 over 250 i-6 which was taken from my first truck(68 gmc)

[brennecke]

$300 for tires and I passed inspection, It's the part after getting it drivable that will be expensive for me.

[sympl_67]

Well, the body is shot. Thats not very important as far as getting it to run though. I have about $900. It's got an old 6 cyl. in it with a 3 spd. The linkage on the shifter is all messed up and gets loose really quick. So that needs replace for sure. The gas guage dosn't work and the speedo dosn't work. The engine is really healthy. Compression was great and it does run really clean. I need to get some of the wiring straightened out with the blinkers and all. I'm just trying to get this thing to run. I would need to drive it about 6 1/2 hours to where I'm living now and need to be sure it would make it. All the glass is good too. So I figure a tune up for starters (cap/rotor, wires, plugs, oil, etc.) What do you think I could do about the shifter linkage? How much is a new shifter for a 3 speed saginaw on the floor? I'm sure that if I get those things worked out it will make the drive. The rest is gonna be an investment though!!

[O'l Buck]

if your just wanting to get by, you can buy a hurst indy 3spd universal floor shifter for about $70, good for normal driving, but they suck if you're planning on speed shifting much, they don't pass through the neutral position very fast to pick up 2nd and 3rd. How long has this thing been sitting?? Might want to change fuel filter when you tune it up. If it runs decent, probably won't cost you much more than 100-150 to get it driveable, turn signals are not too bad to fix, if it's just a wiring problem, if it's in the column, well, that's a whole nuther reply.

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'72 Chevy 1/2T 4x4 shortbox stepside 350/350auto on '84
ralleys and 31/10.5s

67 Cutlass convertible
330, 3spd stick

90 GMC Jimmy
350/auto
Chad Stephens
Orleans,NE

[stllookn]

I paid the tow truck driver about $50...LOL and the state about $22 to transfer the title and I still don't have it running...this is killing me!!!!!

[COBALT]

I'm a bit more on the practical side. I don't really consider body part of the "essentials" list for getting a truck on the road (unless of course the doors won't close, or there's no doors, or the cab is falling off the frame!). For me its the mechanics of the truck:

1. Engine (ignition, timing. Is it clean running or is it buring oil? Water and fuel pump? Carburator and vaccuum.)

2. Transmission (smooth shifting. Holding its fluid, and doesn't slip or leak).

3. Driveline (U-joints) and transfer case if 4x4 (good fluid. Clean shifts into 4 wheel.)

4. Differential (no bad noise. No clunking or howling)

5. Wheel bearings (front) and axles (rear). Grease seals all around.

6. Breaks (no leaky wheel cylinders. Good drums and/or calipers and pads. Good rotors. Good master cylinder and booster.)

7. Front-end (tie rods, controller arms, ball joints, etc.)

8. Suspension (springs, leafs, shocks)

9. Accessories (alternator, power steering pump, and belts)

10. Cooling system (radiator, thermostat, fan, belts and hoses)

11. Wheels (tires, rims, hubs, and lugs)

12. Electrical (battery, coil, starter, and all essential lights-brakes, turnsignals, & headlights).

13. Controls (stearing, turn signals, shifters [linkage if auto], dash board, guages, pedals, e-brake)

14. Misc. (door locks, gas cap, rollable windows, clear windshield and back-glass).

As previously mentioned any of these can cost you a bundle, but if you prioritize and plan ahead you can save some money.

When I bought my truck last July about 1/2 of this list needed attention. Nine months later, and about $2500 all of it is fixed. I had some surprizes along the way, but I knew it would be more than the truck was actually worth. But I'm not doing this as an "investment", I'm doing this for fun, so screw it.

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'69 3/4 ton C20 2wd w/ 350ci/400THM and a wood bed!
'69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd w/ ORIGINAL 350ci/4sp Manual and a wood bed (parts beast).
Seattle, WA.

*See pics of my trucks and project at www.webshots.com!


[This message has been edited by new69owner (edited April 02, 2002).]

[Desert Rat]

Heres what i do to something i plan on keeping since i dont know the history,

1.Brakes
2.Suspension
3.Tires
4.Cooling Sysytem
5.Exhaust
6.Rearend
7.Bearings,Seals


Theses are also things i try to start on even when i bought this 79 Blazer first thing i did was went to Auto Parts store,bought me Cap,Rotor,Wires,Plugs,Thermostat,Oil/Filter,Tans Fluid/Filter,90wt.,Antifreeze,Fuel Filter,3/8 or 5/16 fuel hose,new radiator hoses,and clamps,also repacked front bearings,replaced seals,inspected all brakes up front,pulled rear drums-had turned,new shoes,and hardware,new ujoints,even bought a new Felpro gaket set. so my inistaial investment went up fast but when something comes home new it gets all this potential keep me stranded stuff,i dont have to worry about it and i dont buy it from Autozone,Pep Boys-i try to stay with Napa on alot of parts bug oil i use whats on sale usually 30wt,no krapo brands though,usually a AC or Fram fiter,i dont opt for the inhouse brands-even though they are probably better filtration.I dont buy the cheaper stuff no 99cent thermostats i buy preferably the new not manufactured lifetime warranty crap,chances are youll be stranded in the desert 125 degrees,whats the warranty worth then-oh boy a replacement whenever/if you go home.when i go to auto parts store and they ask which one you want 19.99 29.99 or 59.99 one i usually say the later,unless im real broke-or its just a junker why by the 59.99 one when it goes from the backyard to the dump 3 miles away once in a while.the lifetime starters for certain cars with headers ill buy,even though replaced every 6 months,it costs nothing,i added quick disconnects towards the top,so after the 2 bolts bang its out,replace selenoid wires,bolt in and run wire up to disconnects-plugged in ready to roll!!!!!!