1967 Checy C50 Skewlie

[MjrBummer]

Hi everybody,

I'm hoping I found the right place to be looking for answers. This is my first post, and after doing a bit of searching and surfing the forums here, it all looks good so far.

I recently bought my Dad's old 1967 Chevy C50 Schoolie. He's had it for almost 40 years since the bus was about 8 years old. Its powered by a 327. A 1965 if my Dad remembers correctly. Seems to still run fairy well, though I'm sure it could use some fresh plugs, wires, etc. Just under 27,000 actual miles on the bus.

I see it still has all but one of the original tires on it. After about 48 years, I'm sure they could look worse, but I still don't trust them for a long haul. It has 8.25/20 tires on it now. I'd like to get away from the bias ply tires and go with some tubeless radials for less rotating mass and better handling. I see some people are suggesting 22" or 22.5" wheels. I'm not finding a whole lot on what vehicles I might be able to find those size wheels on though. Has anybody here upgraded to more modern and easier to find radials in those sizes? Anybody have any other ideas? I seen here somewhere that somebody had found someplace to get blank aluminum wheels for a decent price, but I'm a bit concerned that the would be too thick and my wheel studs would be too short.

I'm also looking for a couple front fenders if anybody knows a good source for those.

I took some measurements a couple weeks ago, but now I cant find my notes. I guess I'll have to go do it again this weekend.

Well, I hope you guys will be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Bill

[flashed]

That is so cool ,what are your plans for it ?

[68panelman]

Take a visit at the stovebolt website, they have a bunch of info on what to do with wheels/tires.

[Marty68]

that is a very cool bus!!! I would LOVE to have it

[South Florida C50]

Welcome to the forum, your asking for two of the most rare and illusive items that you can obtain for the front end of your C50. I'm in the same boat, and I'm sure there are quite a few of us looking for the same thing. The fenders won't be as hard as the rims.... 68panelman hit the nail on the head with the stove bolt website, I read about our rims and how ****ty they are, and how difficult they will be to replace. Guys are swapping out their axles to change the bolt pattern and gain disk brakes. I'm thinking about buying blank, one piece aluminum rims 9x22.5 and having them drilled out to match the lug pattern so I can run the taller, radial, BF G's or Michelins. I'm still looking for a good deal on the blanks. I've seen them for $200 a piece on eBay. Just about all the fenders that you find will be expensive and rusted out on the top rear.

[colgad]

Originally Posted by MjrBummer

Hi everybody,

I'm hoping I found the right place to be looking for answers. This is my first post, and after doing a bit of searching and surfing the forums here, it all looks good so far.

I recently bought my Dad's old 1967 Chevy C50 Schoolie. He's had it for almost 40 years since the bus was about 8 years old. Its powered by a 327. A 1965 if my Dad remembers correctly. Seems to still run fairy well, though I'm sure it could use some fresh plugs, wires, etc. Just under 27,000 actual miles on the bus.

I see it still has all but one of the original tires on it. After about 48 years, I'm sure they could look worse, but I still don't trust them for a long haul. It has 8.25/20 tires on it now. I'd like to get away from the bias ply tires and go with some tubeless radials for less rotating mass and better handling. I see some people are suggesting 22" or 22.5" wheels. I'm not finding a whole lot on what vehicles I might be able to find those size wheels on though. Has anybody here upgraded to more modern and easier to find radials in those sizes? Anybody have any other ideas? I seen here somewhere that somebody had found someplace to get blank aluminum wheels for a decent price, but I'm a bit concerned that the would be too thick and my wheel studs would be too short.

I'm also looking for a couple front fenders if anybody knows a good source for those.

I took some measurements a couple weeks ago, but now I cant find my notes. I guess I'll have to go do it again this weekend.

Well, I hope you guys will be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks,
Bill

Dump the old wheels and the old drums and go modern disk. I can walk you through using most any modern mid truck (Topkick/Kodiak/Freightliner) axle. you get 14" dual piston disk brakes and you can use modern 22.5 steel or aluminum wheels. The rear can be swapped out using the same truck or cut/swap the frame like I did and use all of the new suspension also. PM me and Ill will be glad to chat.

[colgad]

22.5" on front and back. Big disks, stops like crazy!

[MjrBummer]

Now that's the stuff I'm talking about! Great information all around.

I've been skimming through the Stovebolt website when I get the chance. So far its provides some info and some good links. As soon as I remeasure the dimensions on the wheels, I can take a closer look.

Those wheels look pretty trick, and having the discs would be a big plus. What years and models are we swiping the axles, spindles, rotors, calipers, etc. from? I assume your swapping the entire rear axle out? Maybe the entire front axle too, or have we found something to fit onto the original spindles?

I definitely want to get away from those old, ugly, original wheel/tire combos. I want to go to the modern radial/tubeless route. Less overall rotating mass for better economy and handling. At $200 - $300 for the blanks, that's not out of the possibility. But I'm a bit concerned about how thick the aluminum might be as compared to the original steel wheels. Especially if I stay with the original axles.

When it gets a bit warmer out up here, I have my eye on several junkyards where I saw some old big bolt trucks to go scope out some fenders. I just have to figure out who owns them. Worst case scenario, I pull off mine and cut out the old rusty metal and patch in some new stuff. Luckily I have a good friend who has some experience with that type of stuff. What's the worst I can do?

I'm heading up in a bit after I load my tools to go bleed the brake lines and to install an RV rooftop AC unit. I also picked up some new mirrors, windshield wipers, etc. I've already talked to the local windshield replacement outfit and they can use my old cracked windshields as patterns to cut and install some new ones. My friends and I also decided on the new paint scheme. All being A-Team fans, we're going to paint her up like BA's van.

My Dad had left a lot of things unfinished, so its time to finish them. There's a lot of bare metal on the inside and my wicked step-mother swiped on some really ugly colors. Gotta get rid of that! I need to either build a fold out couch or get one of those Jackknife sofa sleepers to go across from the dining table. Need to build some upper cupboards. Need to bring the electronics into the 21st century too.

Here's a link to the photo album of my Skewlie on my FB page. I hope it work for ya.
https://www.facebook.com/MjrBummer/m...2522751&type=3

Well, I hope everybody has a great holiday season.
Bill

[mrolds88]

What year did they start putting discs on the MD trucks? I ask because after doing some research, you may be able to put an axle together without cutting. If you have a 7k axle. the 5k's may be a tad bit more work. Since GM used the same kingpin set from 64-90 on the 7k axles, it should be a drop and swap with the steering knuckles.

[colgad]

They started putting disks on in the late 70's but they also made the axle wider. Using one of these puts your tires outside the wheel well. They also had an odd 10 lug rim for a while. Finding an axle with the standard 285mm hub centric bolt pattern (standard semi size makes finding rims and tires cheap and easy) I paid $50 for my front 22.5's Alcoa's and $50 for the barely used 275x70x22.5 RV tires (38" tall). RV people change tires every season they don't like to have issues. My rear super singles 445x50x22.5 (40"tall) were more expensive but that was my choice.

If and it's a BIG IF you can find a P30 (stepvan-breadvan...) (not a P20) with a straight axle (most were A arms in my area) the spindles are 8 lug and with a little machining (trust me NOTHING just bolts on) they will fit a C40-60 axle. Then you have 8 lug disk and if you want 20's or bigger there $$$. or you can get 8-10lug semi adapters for about $800 and bolt on 22.5 steel or aluminum.
I got my 1998 complete Freightliner axle for $300 it's a Rockwell, they use the same one on some Kodiak/Topkicks (most of those are the Big 8 lug so be careful and choose wisely).
Yes I had to take 10" out of the middle of my axle but I just put it in a metal cutoff chop saw and in 10 minutes it was done. I bolted a 1/2 plate ($60) on the axle using the spring mounts holes and angle cut where I was welding. Aline carefully before welding. I left the 1/2 plate in place just for piece of mind. I only used 3 of the 9 original leaf springs and used a small air bag to soften the ride up but not sure if it helps of not. It's still pretty stiff.
I had purchased a entire 92 Topkick box truck for the box and the front and rear axles and was going to find some 8 lug 22.5 steel rims for the BIG 8 lug. They are around but really hard to find so I changed my plan. Out back I took the rear frame of a 1992 Topkick it was 8 lug but was able to swap it at the junk yard for a 10 lug one from a 1994 Kodiak and a $250. I did use the rear frame of the 92 and welding it to the C50 frame right behind the cab. The frames are very close to the same size. I pulled one of the two leafs out and I currently have one leaf in the rear (although it is about 7/8' thick in the middle)

[mrolds88]

What I was referring to was to take an older 7k axle (67to 72) and use the 80's up to 90 spindle on it. They use the same kingpin package. The 5k axles are a bit different, but I think they could be gotten to work too. Now the P30 stuff should fit the c40 4k axle as it has the smaller pins in it.

[colgad]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

What I was referring to was to take an older 7k axle (67to 72) and use the 80's up to 90 spindle on it. They use the same kingpin package. The 5k axles are a bit different, but I think they could be gotten to work too. Now the P30 stuff should fit the c40 4k axle as it has the smaller pins in it.

That would be great if that would work.

Ill do some searching for the exact years they started with disks.

I think the issue will be that the bolt pattern will still be the widow makers 10 bolt.

[MjrBummer]

Well, I hope everybody had a great Xmas.

I stayed in my Skewlie over the Xmas break and did some cleaning up inside. I only found 1 mouse hiding in the under seat storage. I woke up to about 6" of snow Saturday morning. It wasn't to bad inside at a nice cool 55 or so degrees overnight. I almost had the furnace up and running, but found it clogged up with lady beetles. I'll have to pull it out this spring and take it apart.

I took it around the block to see how she handled. I could only hit about 46mph or so though. I'm going to have to go through the carb ans stuff in the spring and see if everything is working properly. No telling how old the gas in the tank is either. Maybe make an upgrade to a 500 CFM Holley. I put one of those on the 360 in my 69 F100 years ago, and it helped with the power and mileage considerably. Maybe replace the old original manifolds with some headers while I'm at it to help her breath a bit better. A clutch fan might help free up a couple horses as well. Any other suggestions? I don't have any experience with the old Chevy 327's. I think I would rather have a good diesel, but I'll give that old engine a chance first. I'm pretty sure we didn't make all those trips to Florida and into Canada and everywhere else only doing 45 mph, so I'm hoping with a little TLC, she'll be back up to highway speeds.

I also found the breaks to be needing some beading. When I got them pumped up, they certainly stopped quick! It was pretty wet and slushy so I couldn't get underneath to break the bleeders free.

I made a trip up to Monticello RV in Monticello, MN. to pick up a roof-top AC unit. Managed to find one that has a heater in it as well. I didn't even know they made such a contraption.

I put some new larger mirrors on to replace the old ones that I could barely even see anything through anymore.

I also was able to modify some new windshield wipers to fit.

I also got a hold of the local windshield company and the young lady on the other end was very patient and was able to get me in contact with the right people to get some new windshields put in, hopefully next month or so.

I made a little progress on the wheels. I managed to find a link on stovebolt.com that lead me to these 22.5" wheels with the right bolt pattern and center hole.

http://www.wheelsnowinc.com/catalog/viewItem.php?id=197

I'm just waiting on a quote now.

Bill

[mrolds88]

As far as the fuel system, I would drain it and start off by rebuilding the carb that is on it. If that doesn't work for you, then I would swap on a Quadrajet. An early one. These do not have any of the electronic provisions.

[MjrBummer]

I would have to agree, drain the tank and rebuild the carb first. Might be the cheapest and easiest to do that first and see how it goes.

I also got a quote back on those wheels, $240.75 each.

Bill

[colgad]

Originally Posted by MjrBummer

I would have to agree, drain the tank and rebuild the carb first. Might be the cheapest and easiest to do that first and see how it goes.

I also got a quote back on those wheels, $240.75 each.

Bill

Not to bad if your brakes are OK. but if you want disks....