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12-29-2014, 05:33 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bennington, VT
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Bed to Frame Bolts- Part II
My new bed cross members from LMC came with steel spacers. I've now ordered the rubber pad set.
By my (sometimes abstract) thinking, the pads should go between the actual frame and below the steel spacer- in other words... Wood on top, steel cross sill, metal spacer, rubber pad to frame on bottom. Seems to make sense to me, with only reason for steel spacer (3/16" thick) to keep cross sill from cutting into rubber pad? Sound right?- Thanks |
12-29-2014, 05:56 PM | #2 |
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Location: Bennington, VT
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Bed to frame bolts, Part I
Ready to make my bed on the 56 short box. I have some rough sawn cherry that's been drying for ten+ years- so decided I'd mill some up and put it to good use. Planed, sanded, and grooved it up and applied some marine varnish. Painted the bed rails and bolt heads the same as the body (50's GM Seafoam Green). Put the 4 center boards on the sills with bed front, and by golly, beauty being in the eyes of the beholder- pretty darn sexy!
Now for my next boards- Just ordered bed to frame bolts with off centered flat washers which brings me to my question... Since the washers are punched off center, I am thinking that my process on the lumber must go as follows 1) carefully mark where bolt holes need to be, but do not drill them yet as I need to make the washer recess first (being off center). 2) place the eccentric washer's hole over my mark and trace outer diameter of the washer. 3) Use a fostner bit ( about 1/8" larger) to cut a recess the thickness of the washer. 4) Drill hole for bolt (again about 1/8" oversize). Just asking if I am correct from anyone else who has done this, any hints welcome!!! Hardwood ain't cheap, and already have a lot of work in these pieces. Thanks much for your time and thoughts. |
12-29-2014, 09:17 PM | #3 |
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
can't really say for sure, but 1/8'' and 1/8'' add up to 1/4'' of slop in your plan
i'd drill them the exact side of the washer and bolt, tap them in if needed the washer is eccentrically drilled so you can use the square stove bolt and lock it in from turning do a test hole in scrap oak or cherry to see if your plan is doable, as is, i think the head will turn typically the bed rails are above the bed wood as a shovel guide (shudder ) so as your shoveling gravel (ouch) or asphalt (gross) out of the bed the shovel doesn't dig into the bed wood if you painted the strips and bolts, recess the strips and bolts a bit under the surface of the bed wood this is a little deeper than the plans on the bed wood site and if you sprayed the bed strips... did they take as much paint as half your truck or what???
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cool, an ogre smiley Ogre's 58 Truk build how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature shop air compressor timer Last edited by _Ogre; 12-29-2014 at 09:27 PM. |
12-29-2014, 10:12 PM | #4 |
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Location: Bennington, VT
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
Thanks for reply Ogre- I'm all set with the dados for the bed rails. Mine stand about 1/16" proud of top of wood surface. Don't plan on shoveling much gravel or sand, but may haul some manure and have to use an iron rake in the bed-ha!
My worry is with the bolts in the two second from outside boards that pass through the frame and secure the bed, understand the idea of the eccentric punched washers, as if they are in a recess, they will hold the bolts square "under-head" from turning as it is tightened. The only way I can think to do this is to cut the recess with a fostner first- then drill the bolt hole off center to match the washer. This will require very accurate measurement and marking. If I drill the bolt hole first, I fear the fostner will "walk" if it's center point is on the edge of that bolt hole. I'll try a piece of scrap when the new hardware arrives- if I'm lucky, the bolt hole is off center enough that this won't be an issue. Thanks again and Happy New Year! |
12-30-2014, 09:42 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Lawrenceville, Ga
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
I believe that Mar-K has a good write-up on how to position the bolts and washers. Check their website. I did mine a couple of years ago and I think I used their instructions to get them right.
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12-30-2014, 10:51 AM | #6 |
and a few others
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blue Ridge Mountains of VA
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
thumper56, I don't see a reason to have "part-I and part-II" threads for this.
I merged the two
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Bill US Army Vet -193rd Infantry BlueRidgeMuscleCars.com “The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated” Gandhi |
12-30-2014, 06:03 PM | #7 |
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Location: Bennington, VT
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
Was mainly keeping the two questions separate in hopes for replies on both topics (no feed back yet on rubber spacer to date), but thanks, both different issues but in same area of truck so may work out.
Thanks Bill and Russell- I'll check out the Mar-K site. |
12-30-2014, 06:38 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Bennington, VT
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Re: Bed to frame bolts, Part I
Mar-K site was great with beautiful illustrations. Both (offset washer recess drilling and rubber mount pads) questions now answered!
Wish my factory assembly manual had been this clear. Thanks much for all the responses- All set now! |
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