Door shutting too far, then won't open

[w00dst0ck]

I was fitting my driver door on to check gaps after welding in the new floor panels, rockers/hinge pins. Truck has never had the rubber bumpers, so both doors have always had a little play when latched (you can push them in maybe 1/4). Only this time the driver door wouldn't release. I was able to open it finally by pulling the bottom of the door out while attempting to open.

Just curious what might have changed? My latches haven't been adjusted and the truck didn't do it before the door patch and floor patches. However, all the gaps look good, it opens/closes fine. The door had bad hinge pins and sagged before which could be why it never had that problem. Someone could have adjusted them due to the sagging door.

Should I just loosen the latch and adjust it slightly? Just curious on what it's getting stuck on in the latch mechanism so I have an idea where to start.

[w00dst0ck]

Pretty much answered my own question with this post. Latch probably needs to come down a tad. Disregard lol.

[w00dst0ck]

Ok, I need to revive this.

I loosened the frame side of the latch, played with it for a few hours and I'm still getting the same issue.

Even with the door rubber stoppers in, it still latches, then I can push it in slightly further. When that happens I have to yank it back to the 'first position' which then the button on the door handle will allow it to open. Using a small pry bar will also work. If it doesn't get pushed to the 'second position' it will open no problem. But anytime you shut it with any force other than your finger it goes to the 'second position'. This happens in the passenger door, but only if you put some force behind it once it's shut. And even then you can just open it.

Anyone else ever had this issue?

I've also loosened the door hinges and moved it around slightly to see if that would help.

[Modges'66]

Now don't quote me on this, but if I remember correctly, I had a similar problem like this.
It seems that if the door was too far forward or back, the door latch would interfere with the striker plate on the door jamb.
I remember putting masking tape on the plate that covers the end of the door latch to determine where the interference was taking place, and upon closing the door, the tape would get ripped during the rubbing...
Also, isn't there a nylon piece that is spring-loaded to keep the door latch forced against the teeth on the striker? this may need some lubrication, as I think that if it sticks it will make the door hard to open.
I wish that I could just go look at mine in order to help figure this out, but that would mean driving 45 mins. each way...
Once that I had mine all adjusted, I drilled an 1/8" hole thru the center of the hinge into the cab, and also thru the hinge into the door, so that after paint I could slip a dowel or drill into these holes for alignment...Then you know that you are real close to start with!

[w00dst0ck]

Can you take a picture of said nylon piece?

I wish I had drilled a hole before I pulled them. I did however do this on my passenger side.

[Modges'66]

The nylon piece is on the striker plate, between the plate & the door frame, above the area where the teeth are. it is spring-loaded & on a taper that makes it exert pressure on the door latch assembly.
I will try to get pics if I am up there in the next few days.
I found a pic on my computer that shows the area, but I have no way of editing the image to point to the area for you to look at!!!