Taking oil pan off with engine in truck

[87Skier]

So I know this may be a little hard to directly answer because not every truck/engine combo is the same. So, I recently swapped a new motor into my Jimmy and it is leaking a lot of oil from the front of the engine. I can't tell exactly where it is coming from, but it is dripping from the lowest point where the oil pan and timing cover meet.

When I say a lot, I mean I may drive it about 30 or 40 miles and it loses almost a quart. The engine is a 1997 Vortec 350 motor, and while I had it out I put all new seals on, a new timing set and timing cover (not supposed to reuse the old one according to GM), but I ended up buying a cheaper aftermarket one and I think this is where my problem is coming from. The oil pan gasket is a 1 piece FelPro gasket.

So, my plan is to replace the timing cover (with a Dorman OE replacement), oil pan gasket, front main seal, and timing cover gaskets. Can this be done in the truck? Or does the motor need to come back out.

Also, should I be looking elsewhere for leaks?

Thanks!

[scottybaccus]

You won't need an oil pan gasket unless it's damaged. Timing covers are problematic. You should be able to remove it by just lossening the pan bolts, leaving the two at the rear lightly snug, and remove a few toward the front. This will let the front of the pan droop enough to work.
It may be necessary to raise the motor up and block it in place for more room at the cross-member.
Plan on the new cover, new water pump gaskets, timing cover gaskets, and front seal. Use a shop vac to draw out any shavings while cleaning gasket surfaces so they don't all wind up in the pan. Also, there should be two dowel pins in the block for the timing cover. They were molded pins in the OE plastic cover, but you would need steel pins in the block for the aftermarket cover. If those were missing, that was your issue. Check the dorman cover. It could be made either way. You MUST have alignment pins of some kind. Make sure you use a new front seal, and lube it before install.

[scottybaccus]

Remove the oil dipstick while the pan is loose.

[BlackedOut67shorty]

I've done it but I had to take both motor mount bolts off and pick the engine up a lil with a cherry picker.

[87Skier]

I'm really beginning to think that it would be a lot easier to just pull the engine. I think I could have the engine out in less than 3 hours. Any reason not to?

Thanks for reminding me about the water pump gaskets. I think I have a few laying around.

[dell72]

I replaced the pan gasket on my 72 K-20 in the truck. I supported the engine with a cherry picker and pulled the crossmember under the engine to gain access.

[franken]

I had a similar situation w/ a 2nd gen Camaro. I think it was a groove worn in the balancer so I pulled the radiator, accessories, water pump, timing cover, motor mount bolts, the dist. cap, lifted the engine a bit and rotated the crank.
A speedy sleeve took care of the groove. I replaced the pan gasket just in case as well as all the other gaskets on stuff removed.
No more leaks.
I'd say it's easier not to remove the engine.

[87Skier]

Well, I ended up pulling the engine. Even though I spent about 8 hours doing all the work, I'm happy that it doesn't leak anymore. Well worth the effort.

[67 chevelle]

Most of the time when it leaks that much its the front seal ,, pull the balancer and replace

[Guy Dudebro]

I changed the oil pan and timing chain gasket very recently. I unbolted the engine from the frame and used a jack to raise the engine and transmission up for access. I put the jack on the flywheel and it remained steady. It was a bioatch to change the oil pan gasket though. Use the fel pro snap gaskets for sure. Even with those, it's still a tight fit.