Brake line / prop valve questions

[Chris4x4Gill2]

I am trying to finish up a rear disc conversion on my 72. I am using the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve with 3/8-24 fittings. I have redone my flares multiple times and I cant get the lines on the bottom to seal, they keep leaking. The lines from the master cylinder seem to be good. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and try to find some pre-made/pre-bent lines with the proper fittings - do they exist for my application?

Can anyone tell me the fitting size for the factory proportioning valve? I no longer have the original that came off of the truck. If they happen to be the same size fitting, any reason I cant use one of these pre-bent master cylinder kits?

Wilwood Prop Valve:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179

Lines:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=166

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Forgot to specify that this is a 72 C10 Cheyenne - Factory front disc/ rear drum with brake booster.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Chris4x4Gill2

I am trying to finish up a rear disc conversion on my 72. I am using the wilwood adjustable proportioning valve with 3/8-24 fittings. I have redone my flares multiple times and I cant get the lines on the bottom to seal, they keep leaking. The lines from the master cylinder seem to be good. I'm about ready to throw in the towel and try to find some pre-made/pre-bent lines with the proper fittings - do they exist for my application?

Can anyone tell me the fitting size for the factory proportioning valve? I no longer have the original that came off of the truck. If they happen to be the same size fitting, any reason I cant use one of these pre-bent master cylinder kits?

Wilwood Prop Valve:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-11179

Lines:
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cb/full.aspx?Page=166

Sounds like you are just using the wrong type of flare. Or you have been stuck by the "Lots More Chinese crap" guys from LMC. I wouldn't buy valve stem caps from that place.

Check the chart in the photo to ID the type of flare you need, or call the Wilwood tech line. They are always helpful. The Summit kit is what I used.

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Can you provide a link to the summit kit?

I would prefer not to buy from LMC, just using it as a reference.

The lines i made use a double 45 flare.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Chris4x4Gill2

Can you provide a link to the summit kit?

I would prefer not to buy from LMC, just using it as a reference.

The lines i made use a double 45 flare.

Sure.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-pvblk-s/overview/

There are two versions of the bracket and line kit. One chrome, one not. Double 45 is the correct flare to use. Also available from Classic Performance. I think Summit just resells the CPP part.

Good Luck

[Chris4x4Gill2]

I'm good on the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Its the "outbound" side of the proportioning valve im unable to get to seal. I'd like to find some pre made lines to fit from the proportioning valve to the distribution block near the front driver tire. I've looked through CPP's site and they only list rear lines. Guess I should just call them and see what they say.

The picture I was referencing from LMC should have been page 138 For some reason the link shows a differnt page.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Chris4x4Gill2

I'm good on the lines from the master cylinder to the proportioning valve. Its the "outbound" side of the proportioning valve im unable to get to seal. I'd like to find some pre made lines to fit from the proportioning valve to the distribution block near the front driver tire. I've looked through CPP's site and they only list rear lines. Guess I should just call them and see what they say.

The picture I was referencing from LMC should have been page 138 For some reason the link shows a differnt page.

I made mine from a length of straight tubing but inline tube has the parts you are looking for.

http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Li.../CT-CAT-09.htm

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Straight tubing would work if I found it with the correct fittings already on it. I was mainly trying to avoid having to re-flare the ends.

I'll give inline a call and see what I can figure out.

[dirtyjim]

what type of flare tool are you using? I've had realy good luck on 3/16 line with inline flare tools. my cheap OEM double flare tool would do 1/4" and up fine but for some reason I could maybe get 1 out of 5 with 3/16, until I switched to an inline tool. OEM makes one for around $30 that you can get at autozone, after using it twice I upgraded to the Eastwood professional tool, it ain't cheap but it was on sale for $210 and will dbl flare stainless

[Chris4x4Gill2]

I cant remember the brand name. It is a loaner from a buddy. I'm sure it was an autozone buy or similair.

Its basically this set:

[knomadd]

Make sure your lines are clean when you are flaring, and you'll probably want some sort of lubrication to help the tool not damage the line when flaring. Something like WD40 may work just fine. But definitely make sure the line and tool are clean. If there's any debris on either part, it can cause bad flares. If all of that checks out, you'll probably be better off buying a pre-flared line, like you're asking about, or getting a higher quality flare tool and try again.

[dirtyjim]

I've never had good luck on 3/16" tubing with the type of flaring tool you have pictured, but for some strange reason I can flare 1/4" and up perfectly with it.
for 3/16" I use an inline tool like this one from autozone.
I just upgraded to the eastwood professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool since I'm planning on redoing all my brake lines in stainless steel, plus it will do bubble flares that will come in handy when I run my fuel lines.

[Chris4x4Gill2]

Originally Posted by dirtyjim

I've never had good luck on 3/16" tubing with the type of flaring tool you have pictured, but for some strange reason I can flare 1/4" and up perfectly with it.

This seems to be the issue I have as well.

Thanks for the tips eveyone.