What lift would work wt 35x14.5

[ScottyP]

I want to get 35x14.5 on 15x12's. What size lift would work well to fit this set up? Any recommendations on lifts? 72 k5 blazer

[Mike C]

I ran 35 14.5 Mickey Thompsons on my Jimmy for awhile. 4" Rancho springs in the front and 4" National springs in the rear. I had 15x10" Centerline Pro Truck wheels with 3 5/16 backspacking. I had some rubbing on the tips of both fenders when turning, and they rubbed on the front of the tub if bouncing while getting on it off-road.

I trimmed a 1/2" by 4" pie slice off the front of the quarters and just tried to keep the wheel in the rub zone of the front as short a time as possible.

With the 8 lug conversion, I pushed the rear axle back about 3/4" so my custom driveshaft would not be too long which solves the rear, and my 35 12.5" I have now don't rub in the front.

I think the 12.5 is a much better looking tire than the 14.5, and it fits better. Currently I have 35 12.5 16.5 BFG AT's on 16.5 x 9.75 Centerline Bulllet rims with 4" backspacking on the 8 lug axles from an '86 Suburban. Semi-float 14 rear and the fronts on my original Dana 44. 4.10 gears in both.

[ScottyP]

Thanks Mike. I have a 4 inch on it right now wt 33x12.5. I had a 97 2 door Tahoe wt 35x 14.5 wt a 9 inch lift. I liked the look and performance of it. Not sure I want to go that tall but I'm looking for ideas.

[Mike C]

35's should work with your 4" lift. I believe in as little lift as possible for the tire. If needed, you can move the tire back in the wheel well with a zero rate block although that might render your driveshaft too short. You could use the zero rate in the front as well to keep things even, but a little extra in the back makes the truck look better IMO depending on how it sits now.

Do you have blocks in the rear or lift springs? The block/add-a-leaf combo I had originally combined with gears and the 4 speed bent the perches on my axle housing so I suggest lift springs for the added torque arm of the taller tires.

But, once again my opinion, the 12.5 looks a lot better since it has much less stick out. I first had 33 14.5 MT's on my truck on 15x8" wheels with no lift, and they rubbed on the inside of the rear wheel wells. Would have been OK on 10" wheels.

[ScottyP]

It has blocks in the rear. I'm going to replace them wt springs for sure. Do you have any pics of your rig wt the different combos you tried. I just bought this rig about a month ago. It has 15x8 on it right now. I thought I saw a post by you saying you were running those 33s wt a 4in lift that was ridiculous. Either way I'm new to this site and I do appreciate your input.

[Mike C]

I don't have any pics on my computer with the 33"s and no lift or the 35" MT's or the 35" BFG MT's that were on it. (Just old school 35mm prints! (Actually, my avatar is the 35" 14.5" Mickeys but who knows where that pic is?) I should scan them some day...) I went to 36 12.5" Humvee tires next (Looked awesome. Rode like crap.) To the 35 12.5 16.5 BFG AT's that are on it now.

Here's a shot with the Humvee tires. (They were exactly the same height as the 35" BFG MT's, so don't let the 36" rating fool ya'! Oh, and if they still made the 35" BFG MT in 16.5", that's what I would be running today.)

This is 4" springs both ends, 9.5" 14 bolt semi-float from an '86 Suburban with the Suburban fronts mounted on my original Dana 44. 4.10 gears. 16.5 x 9.75 Centerlines. I THINK 4" Backspacing, but might be 4 1/2". Perch drilled on the rear to move it back about 3/4" which has it centered in the (slightly modified) rear wheelwell.

[ScottyP]

You wouldn't happen to know what size bolts go in the top window rail for the front brackets for the top would you? The guy I bought the truck from filled them wt bondo before he had it painted

[special-K]

I've never run that wide of a 35, but I thing the width will be an issue with 4" lift, especially with 12" wheels. I have run 35/12.50s with 4" lift on 10" wheels and had rubbing. I've also run 37/14.50s on 10" wheels w/4" lift with cut fenders. The only time I've had no rubbing with 35/12.50s w/4" lift was using 8" wheels. Width is the major factor in clearance in front

[Chulisohombre]

I run 35x12.5 on 5 inch lift. I have trimmed the front fang lower part of the fender though since it rubbed off-road. With a wider tire like a 14.5 you are going to Need more like a 6 inch Lift to Make sure no Rubbing. If you are keeping it on the street, four inch will work ok for normal driving though. Only with the wheel cranked it may still catch the frame with that wife a tire. You can also get offset rims to push the tires out some. But that will Put more pressure on the wheel bearings. So keep that inundated as well.

[ScottyP]

Thanks for the advise. I'm thinking of running 35x12.5 on a 15x10 also. Anybody know of a good offset to get the best deep dish look. Maybe going up to 6inch springs. That's another thing I'm having a hard time finding... Rims! Any recommendations?

[Chulisohombre]

15x10 6 inch offset should get you that look. That's pretty much standard in that size. On a older blazer like ours a lot of the newer rims won't look right in my opinion. I like a wagon wheel type rim which is what's on mine. I got keystone rims for 60 bucks apiece. With the steel rim it's a lot stronger than a aluminum rim too. I like the Rock crusher look or like the American racing 767 outlaw bullet hole rims. If you Like aluminum Alcoa has a set like that too. You could also step up in rim size. 17x10 is a standard size and a lot of tire manufacturers have been trying to get away from the smaller rim sizes now. Just a few things to think about.