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01-27-2004, 11:56 AM | #1 |
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Location: DFW, TX
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Will this Camaro Tach work?
I was rummaging through some boxes last night and found the guage cluster from a '77 Camaro. I pullled the tach out, and photos will follow. Will this one work? Are there any "how to" instructions for adding one of these?
Thanks for all the help!
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'56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! '05 GMC crew cab |
01-27-2004, 11:57 AM | #2 |
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'56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! '05 GMC crew cab |
01-27-2004, 11:57 AM | #3 |
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circuit board
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'56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! '05 GMC crew cab |
01-27-2004, 12:05 PM | #4 |
Watch out for your cornhole !
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Azle, Texas
Posts: 14,162
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I had saved this picture of someone else's dash with a Camaro tach. It sure looks the same to me.
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I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin |
01-27-2004, 12:31 PM | #5 |
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Location: NB
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Should have never sold my Camaro
Wow I love that dash! Power Ground and HEI wire No sweat! 30 minutes quick solder job maybe!
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
01-27-2004, 03:45 PM | #6 |
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Location: Indiana
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Install Instructions
The following instructions are from (user) Original69. from the 67-72 board.
Z28 Tach in a 67-72 truck. Parts needed are the tach, at least 8ft wire. Crimp on ends, 6 nuts same size as the z28 guage studs, grommet, plastic cleaner, drill bit etc. I’m sure I missed something.. Here is an overveiw of the tach install. I used a tach from a 79 Z28 cluster. 1-Dissasemble the rear cover by removing the screws on the edge. I think there are 8 of them . Set it aside. 2-Take out the black metal plate and set it aside. 3-Take the plastic plate out and you will need to remove the lines in white that are there. I used a Meguires plastic cleaner and a whole lot of rubbing. Be careful not to remove any of the other white lines, only the ones where the tach is going. 4-Get the metal plate, the one with the black side and you will need to remove the area where the tach will be. I removed just the circle area to the edge. The tach circumference should be about ½' larger than the circle you are cutting out. Go slow here and do a good job. 5-You will have to trim off the small tab on the tach where it sticks out. Don’t worry about the small notch that’s there, you won’t see it when it’s done. I did cut two small pieces off of the edge for the dash lites to show thru at night. About ¼' 6-Put the tach where it goes. I had the bend the bottom and top edges with small pliers before it would fit. 7-Take the tach back out and you will have to do some work to it now. 8-The tach has 3 studs coming thru an insulator plate. This will have to be removed. I took the 3 nuts and insulator off marking on paper where wires went. (grnd, pos, tach). You will have to screw the 2 small nuts on the studs one at a time to DOUBLE NUT them before you cut them. I used a cutoff wheel and cut close to the top nut. Then back one nut off and when you do all three hook the three new wires onto the shortened studs. 9-Put the tach back into the cluster and turn it around finding the best fit in the front. I used sheet metal screws to hold it in. You can drill a small hole then screw the sheet metal screws in close along side the tach. This will not show in the front and is good enough to hold the tach from moving. 10-Now take the rear metal piece and figure out where the tach screws could possibly hit. It is very close here. If you need room take the plastic circuit piece off, then use a small ball peen hammer and hit it a few times to bulge it out some. Be careful you don’t hit it out too far as the circuit plastic might not want to go back on. Mine is very tight but I needed the clearance inside. 11-Drill a small hole big enough for the 3 wires and a rubber grommet to pass thru the rear plate. 12-Check everything before you screw it all back together to make sure. I also put a few pieces of electrical tape where the studs might hit the inside of the rear plate.
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71 Chevy CST Long Fleet 350/350/3.07 leaf rear. |
01-27-2004, 05:02 PM | #7 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
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Do You have an Hei or points?On points make sure to use the neg. side of the coil.
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
01-27-2004, 06:42 PM | #8 |
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Yeah man, that's the same one I used for my cluster.
Mine came out of a 75 Camaro. Go for it, it looks great when finished. Cya, Edmond
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1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands |
01-28-2004, 11:48 AM | #9 |
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Thanks a bunch guys!
71Chev-that is just what I was looking for-a little guidance before I started ripping and cutting! There is already an aftermarket tach in the whole (PO) but it is much brighter and doesn't look quite right (IMO) so it will be changed. After looking at some pics of original tachs I need to come up with an orange dot on the center part. Is this a sticker or painted on? Thanks for all the help!
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'56 F-100 (w/all GM stuff) Lookin' for another parts chaser! '05 GMC crew cab |
01-28-2004, 12:22 PM | #10 |
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Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 1,063
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I painted my guage needles, so now they look like new.
The tach in the picture posted by Tx Firefighter is from a 78 or later Camaro. The one you posted is from an earlier Camaro. The black part can be painted, whichever you prefer. Goodluck. Cya, Edmond
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1971 Chevy C/20 Longhorn, 350/TH400, Edelbrock Performer, IMPCO 425 LPG Carb 1974 Chevy Camaro Z28 (Original) ------------------------- The Netherlands |
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