Brakes and my 59 3100

[Apachemike]

Here's my deal

manual drum all the way around. 350/700r4 I've run into a situation where I need to use the truck for a couple of weeks. It does drive and stop now but I want it a little better.
My choices are:
Just go through and replace shoes and check it all out
Install a power drum kit
Install front discs

Which would be the best choice. If I go discs do I need to change the MC also? This will be done in the driveway and I don't move around as well as I used to.

Thanks

[OrrieG]

Well adjusted drums will stop fine if you drive safely, do not tailgate, etc. If they are just fine. Not like a modern 4 wheel disc system. If spongy, glides to a stop, will not hold on a hill, then you have a problem with the system. You identified the first place to start; adjustment assuming the shoes are ok. That should get you a good pedal and hold on hills. If spongy or need the double pump check bad MC or wheel cylinder. If you are like me (shot knees) and just can't provide the strength they power is an option but is not cheap. CCP and others have complete kits.

I wouldn't personally upgrade for limited driving use just make sure what you have is good and take it easy. I drove mine for 25 years with manual brakes and steering but decided this time to add a booster and PS, during the test drive I almost put myself thru the windshield and love the 1 finger steering.

[_Ogre]

like orrieg, i've driven these trucks for a long time, since 73 with stock brakes
i've never had a brake problem or failure in all those years; knock on wood
you should be able to lock up the wheels or come to a hard stop without any problems
going thru all the brakes to get them back into good working condition is a must
i would not run with stock rusty brake lines or leaky cylinders

[Daze57]

^ i agree with all said above -- please make sure you bleed the system really really well if you change out lines / or leaky cylinders - drums will work fine !!! also ( i am sure you know this ) make sure all shoes are very very clean - i,e no grease or fluids on the shoes .
good luck sir !

[yossarian19]

If it's only for a couple weeks, I would just adjust the brakes & make sure nothing is "wrong" with them (lines, leaks, contaminated / worn shoes, etc) and be done.
In my opinion, though, with a 350 Chev and overdrive transmission - a swap to disc brakes and dual chamber master cylinder makes sense. Power or not is a preference issue but I'll say that I put discs up front of mine and use a hydroboost unit from an Astro van... brakes are fantastic.

[cadman89]

I had to hit the brakes real hard one day and almost smashed up the front of my truck.
So I installed the CPP disk conversion with the new roller bearings.
HUGE difference! I could actually stop...
I had planned on installing the power brake booster but that didn't happen till almost 8 months later.
I did have to run some new brake lines so that front and rear were separate as in the stock configuration one line goes to the left front and the other goes to the other 3.



I have plenty of pictures at: http://www.jalopyweb.com/cpp/

Cadman

[Apachemike]

Thanks everyone. Power steering is already on order but I can live without that for now. Will check things tonite if the weather holds. Ordered pb for the drums since my knees are not in good shape. I'll update

[octanejunkie]

I also installed the CPP kit with camaro rotors and calipers and a power booster mounted on the firewall with a swinging brake pedal. I still have drums in the back and it stops great!

The nice thing about the disc kit is you get to use modern roller bearings with the stock spindles and steering components but stopping power is greatly improved vs. manual drum brakes.

Power steering is also a worthwhile upgrade if you ever need to parallel park these beasts.

[Russell Ashley]

I had the CPP disk brake kit on my truck and it did stop really well, but I'm pretty sure that those were not Camaro rotors though. They are actually Ford rotors drilled for a Chevy bolt pattern. When I switched to Scotts front suspension it came with identical rotors. Justin verified that they are not Chevy, but are Ford with a 4 3/4 lug pattern. I'm not sure what the difference is other than the lug pattern.

[octanejunkie]

Originally Posted by Russell Ashley

I had the CPP disk brake kit on my truck and it did stop really well, but I'm pretty sure that those were not Camaro rotors though. They are actually Ford rotors drilled for a Chevy bolt pattern. When I switched to Scotts front suspension it came with identical rotors. Justin verified that they are not Chevy, but are Ford with a 4 3/4 lug pattern. I'm not sure what the difference is other than the lug pattern.

I seem to recall talking to them and being advised that the rotors and calipers in that kit were from a mid 70s Camaro - at least that's what I wrote down. I haven't changed rotors yet but I know the calipers and pads do interchange with a '75 Camaro.

[1project2many]

You can make the manual truck brakes stop with less effort by switching to larger wheel cylinders. Putting more bias on the front brakes wouldn't hurt so just changing the fronts is ok. The pedal will travel more to stop but it will still stop. This is probably the easiest improvement and it can be completed in a weekend.. Adapting automatic adjusters is a good idea also although I never bothered in mine. With research these might be applied in the same weekend as larger cylinders. Adding power brakes will reduce the amount of effort to apply the brakes but its a much bigger project.

The major disadvantage with the drums is that on a long stop the drums heat up then they don't cool off quickly. Towing, carrying heavy loads, or tooling around in hill country can cause brake fade. I've used my truck for working for years but I've also had to rely on double clutching to granny gear when coming off a long ramp on the interstate with a heavy trailer. Disc would be nice in that case.