GM Flat Tappet Break In Frustration

[1972BlueC20]

Hey Guys!

Well I'm a little annoyed because as many of you know I recently had a GM crate engine installed in my truck. I'm learning more and more everyday about all things mechanical and about our trucks in general.....but I wasn't told at the time and I didn't know that I needed to use a higher zinc oil for the flat tappet break-in period.

What ticks me off even more is the break-in instructions that come with the crate engine from GM say NOTHING at all about using any type of break in oil or additives....actually it's states to just use normal 10w30 conventional oil then they say you can switch over to a full synthetic oil if you'd like after sufficient mileage accumulation.

The mechanic that did my engine swap (which now has shown to not be the most knowledgeable person) also said nothing about using a zinc additive or special oil.

I spent a lot of money on this engine with parts and labor and I always like to do things the right way, it's really my fault since I should of known so I really blame myself....I just hope I didn't damage anything....the engine runs great and doesn't make any abnormal noises. It's got lots of power....I've been taking it easy on it during the low mileage period. Only getting on it here and there but nothing too crazy. The mechanic shop did follow the break-in procedures as suggested by GM (even though GM didn't mention using break in oil or any additive) and they did change the oil after so many hours of initial break in and since then I've been running the same valvoline 10-30 conventional.

I've only put just under 700-1000 miles on my new engine total.

Has the damage already been done?

I was thinking of changing the oil now and using an additive or a better oil.....it's too early to use a full synthetic with higher zinc correct?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

[leftybass209]

The engine was (or should have) been assembled with assembly lube for the camshaft from the factory. While it should have had break-in oil, the use of your oil isn't necessarily a bad thing. "Getting on it" as you say, should never be done on a new motor until the break-in procedure is fully complete. Just drain the oil in a clean clear container and look for significant metal particles. If there isn't a large amount, no harm done, if there is, it's new engine or rebuild time.

[BLT gmc]

IMO the zinc additives are much more important over the entire life of the engine, not just start-up/break-in. Pre-lube the cam, using a dumbie dist to prime the oil passages until you have oil pressure, and follow the 2,500 RPM break-in are more important for the immediate cam life. You have not hurt your engine and can change oil with additive now. Bruce

[EARNHARDT#3]

I don't care what anyone says. We always do the cam break in procedure...then run it like you stole it. A babied engine is just that, a baby.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by EARNHARDT#3

I don't care what anyone says. We always do the cam break in procedure...then run it like you stole it. A babied engine is just that, a baby.

Same here.

And if your cam had been wiped during the break-in, you would know it by now. You're worrying needlessly, in my opinion.

[LockDoc]

-
Put a bottle of Zinc additive in it or high Zinc oil and drive it.

LockDoc

[67ChevyRedneck]

You'd already be having problems by now and would see "glitter" (tiny metal shavings) in your oil when you change it if you had a problem.

You have a warranty on the motor... after you're happy it's broken in... drive the piss out of it Crate engines/rebuilt engines usually fail immediately or within the first couple hundred miles.

[Longhorn 70]

I have always used Delo 400 or Rotella T in my trucks. My uncle, an old time trucker, and the guy I bought my truck from in 1982, told me about these oils.

I did a little searching and found this interesting link about oil components.

[1972BlueC20]

Man searching this subject is mind numbing......online all you find is conflicting info and arguments.

Can anyone recommend a good oil or additive that can be bought locally (i.e. Autozone, Walmart, Oreillys, Napa ect?)

And am I correct that I shouldn't use full synthetic just yet having only about 1000 total miles on this engine?

I really want to change my oil today and check for metal shavings, but I need to find a good oil and or oil and additive combo to put back into it first.


Thanks,

[67ChevyRedneck]

I use this in my 67 C10 and 65 Mustang with Valvoline, boring old 10W30.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-ZDDP-MAXX-...20d52e&vxp=mtr

[GMC-YA68]

There will be a million point of views on this subject and what oil to use.

I will tell you this, I bought a one owner go-fast boat a few years back. It had twin supercharged 575s in it and flat tappet from the factory. Since day one all he ever ran in it was Rotella. When I purchased it I pulled the engines and swapped to hydraulic since I was turning up the boost, new heads and a number of things. That cam looked brand new still (even after 150hrs of RPMs above 3500rpm) However, I still hate the design and don't trust it worth a shyt.

If you use any kind of additive it is going to be a step ahead of not using anything. Just think how many are buying crate motors and have never ran a drop of additive because they didn't know the flat tappet story....

[1972BlueC20]

I'm going after work to Autozone or Oreilly and see what they have on the shelf as far as a zinc additive, if I'm not happy with what I see then I'll order something online.

I guess I'll just use an additive with my Valvoline 10w30 for now.

[FirstOwner69]

I'm not chiming in to join the oil debate. Since I have the same engine, I just want to add some clarification on the GM recommendation for the break in procedure.

Per my discussions with GM after I got my engine, there have been at least 3 different part numbers assigned to the 350 Deluxe engine with some subtle and some not so subtle changes to the engine. Likewise, there have been at least 3 different versions of the instructions supplied with the engines. The instructions (part number for the instructions is 12487544) that came with my engine were not dated and did not contain break in instructions. I assume those were the original version. The more recent versions I can find online (REV16JL08 and REV28MY14) do have break in procedures.

For those interested, here are links to the 2 revised documents.
REV16JL08
http://static.speedwaymotors.com/pdf...tallguide3.pdf


REV 28MY14 (most recent)
http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...e-19210008.pdf

EDIT: I did not follow the break in procedure since I discovered the differences in the instructions too late. I have not had any problems to date.

[leftybass209]

There's nothing wrong with your 10w30 choice. Chevrolet warrants that engine and makes a grand total of $0.00 for warranty work. That's why they have a break-in procedure and recommend the various things they do. It's all preventative measures for both yourself, and the dealership mechanics who have to fix potential issues. That being said, there's never been complaints of a zinc additive damaging a motor, and a whole lot of claims of issues if you don't. I'm not a scientist and I don't know the molecular structure of the oil and how zinc really benefits a camshaft other than the biased advertisements from their respective manufactures. What I do know is that it's a hell of a lot cheaper than pulling all the accessories off my motor to get a rebuild because I wiped the camshaft prematurely and got shavings embedded in the bearing surfaces. Sorry for the long winded post, I'm fired up after writing a couple college papers so I'm in a typing mood. Best of luck!

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Quite worrying about it. Put a Zink additive in the oil & drive it. Those engines have mild cams & low pressure valve springs. You have not hurt it. It will run from now on out.

[1972BlueC20]

Good points fellas!

Thanks for the input!

I'll quite worrying about it and just put an additive in and drive!

[1972BlueC20]

I bought this stuff this evening. It was $10 and got good reviews online. Gonna add it in tomorrow on my oil change!!

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/mt/sho...n_jtt_redirect

[volksworld]

look at the bright side...i believe the factory break-in procedure done on your truck when new was to fire it up and drive it onto the hauler

[CastIron]

I've started many new engines and rebuilt engines using only Pennzoil, and never added anything to the oil. And I've never had a problem with any of them. Modern oil may not have zinc, but it does a pretty good job of lubricating.

Didn't you say somewhere you had a 330hp crate motor? I put the older version of that (the 300hp) in my Chevelle at least 10 years ago and have never added anything to the oil and it runs good.

[Ozzy2013]

Your needlessly worrying you would know by now if you had wiped a lobe as long as you didn't use synthetic .If you ever do it again run it 20-40 minutes at 2000-3000 rpm after you prime the oil pump .And change the oil and your done!Thats why its a good idea to use a known good carb even if you borrow one the initial break in is critical so you want it to run smooth .I've even taken the inner springs out of the heads to break it in if you have hi spring pressure .Only lost one cam in 35+ years of breaking in 30 or more motors i was 16 and dumber than a rock .ha ha