Improved Door Seals - Page 3 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Wasted Income · 11-19-2014, 10:41 AM

I snagged some dakota door seals from the junkyard, and cut them down to work on my blazer. they're pretty decent.

joewell80 · 01-26-2015, 11:33 AM

Has anyone here ever use the LMC brand door seals? if so how do they work compared to the other brands.

Possmguts · 01-26-2015, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by litew8

Im sure they was aftermarket junk seals.. they was sitting in the cab when I got the truck and I put them on... Me no like... I will try the Dakota ones when its gets that time.

OregonNed · 01-26-2015, 03:07 PM

I'm real happy with my Sofseals - but the whole sealant install is messy and a pain....
Weren't really that much. Bought from a vendor here if I recall

Dave K. · 01-26-2015, 03:32 PM

Great thread and very useful. It's interesting that Jeep CJs have similar problems and I always wondered what the corner vents on the hardtop with the TJs was for! Makes sense about pressure though. I always tell folks not to slam the doors as folks here are correct, puts a lot of stress on things-CJs are notorious for cracking inside right below the lower back corner of the wing windows.

kjdolphins · 01-26-2015, 04:13 PM

Not sure if it's been mentioned at all, but has anyone tried rubbing in some armor all or some kind of oil into the precision seals to loosen them up a little? I'm sure someone out there has and I'm curious if that would help

**leddzepp** · 01-26-2015, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kjdolphins

Not sure if it's been mentioned at all, but has anyone tried rubbing in some armor all or some kind of oil into the precision seals to loosen them up a little? I'm sure someone out there has and I'm curious if that would help

Give it a try and see if it works

Stranny64 · 01-29-2015, 07:31 PM

So what's the verdict on the seals? I'm gonna replace mine soon. Is it 50/50 on Dodge or factory Chev seals? Or is it just personal preference? Is one better than the other?

Thanks!!!

Possmguts · 01-29-2015, 08:03 PM

So what I got from this what that the Dakota seals have metal in them and do not require the glue?

leftybass209 · 01-29-2015, 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Possmguts

So what I got from this what that the Dakota seals have metal in them and do not require the glue?

Yes, they have a channel with metal teeth, for lack of a word, that clamps onto the lip of the door surround and doesn't require any glue.

Possmguts · 01-29-2015, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Yes, they have a channel with metal teeth, for lack of a word, that clamps onto the lip of the door surround and doesn't require any glue.

Ill give a set a try when its time.. thanks

Stranny64 · 01-30-2015, 05:14 PM

I'm in. Dodge for me too.

Shaky · 01-30-2015, 05:33 PM

I bought the push-on ones. Original doors on original cab. They're tight. One door will close with a good amount of force, one won't.

Tried lubing them with glass cleaner, but it didn't do it. Lower front corner is the tight spot.

Possmguts · 01-30-2015, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaky

I bought the push-on ones. Original doors on original cab. They're tight. One door will close with a good amount of force, one won't.

Tried lubing them with glass cleaner, but it didn't do it. Lower front corner is the tight spot.

I did read that you may need to "adjust" the lip it mounts to with a hammer. Adjusting inward to the inside of the cab because it is wider than OEM rubber... It takes a little work to get a good seal all the way around and still be able to close the doors nicely but they are better seals.

Shaky · 01-30-2015, 05:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Possmguts

I did read that you may need to "adjust" the lip it mounts to with a hammer. Adjusting inward to the inside of the cab because it is wider than OEM rubber... It takes a little work to get a good seal all the way around and still be able to close the doors nicely but they are better seals.

I never imagined that using the original doors and cab that I'd have to do that. Unlikely that I'll be taking a hammer to it now...

sboris · 01-30-2015, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaky

I never imagined that using the original doors and cab that I'd have to do that. Unlikely that I'll be taking a hammer to it now...

I had your issue. Painted, driver door would not shut. Lower bottom front was too tight after MANY adjustments. A rag and a crescent wrench was used to "tweak" the lip to widen the gap. Touched up and under the seal, no harm, no foul.
Next time i know this, i will mock up my doors with seals installed before paint.

Possmguts · 01-30-2015, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shaky

I never imagined that using the original doors and cab that I'd have to do that. Unlikely that I'll be taking a hammer to it now...

Well even if the doors dont close it looks like a real nice paint job... Since its just the lip that needs adjusted any touch up or damage would be hidden under the seal when its re-installed... It would be worth doing.You could use a chunk of 2x4 and hit that with the hammer and it shouldnt chip the paint...

sboris · 01-30-2015, 11:55 PM

With the door on, it may be tough to get the right angle hitting it without slipping. I slipped the wrench over the lip with the door on and could get it precisely where I wanted.

**leddzepp** · 01-31-2015, 12:52 AM

Wrench and a rag would be the way to go for bending the lip on a freshly pained truck. I used Dakota seals from a junkyard on my 68 and they work great. Nice and snug, but do not need to slam the doors. Can still close them with a firm push.

Back row pupil · 01-31-2015, 04:49 PM

I called my wrecking yard and he said the'86 -'96 are different. Do you happen to know what year you bought? The year that worked for you.he said $20 each, sound right?

**derotoreut** · 01-31-2015, 08:16 PM

Are these used Dakota seals hard to get off once the teeth grab in? I just wondered if I found a used set how easy they come off?

Possmguts · 01-31-2015, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Back row pupil

I called my wrecking yard and he said the'86 -'96 are different. Do you happen to know what year you bought? The year that worked for you.he said $20 each, sound right?

Ditto... What year?

**leddzepp** · 01-31-2015, 10:38 PM

86-96, easy to remove. I paid less than $10 for the pair.

factorystock · 02-01-2015, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70shortfleet

All I know is the Metro brand worked for me

Thanks for the Metro brand alternative 70shortfleet. Is there a specific part number for '67-'72 or is this seal sold as a "universal fit" for all years?

Mapearso · 02-01-2015, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leddzepp

86-96, easy to remove. I paid less than $10 for the pair.

I've seen a few pairs of Dakota seals in the yard.

However, the area by the door sills / floor always seems to be torn up

Will I need this to be in good shape or can I just cut it away?

Thanks!!

11-19-2014, 10:41 AM	#51
Wasted Income Boosted Member Join Date: May 2002 Location: Mackinaw, IL Posts: 2,200	Re: Improved Door Seals I snagged some dakota door seals from the junkyard, and cut them down to work on my blazer. they're pretty decent. __________________ 1972 2wd K/5 Blazer Turbocharged 370 LSx - 941 rwhp / 1093 rwtq 1969 Chevy K-10 L33 5.3 / 4L80E / NP241 / 4" lift 1964 Buick Skylark Twin TURBO 383 LS pro-touring project 2014 VW Passat TDI - Daily Driver Turbo diesel 2015 Sierra Denali HD Duramax Turbo diesel 2016 Ford Explorer Sport - Twin Turbskis 2017 Polaris RZR Turbo 2014 Nor-Tech Center Console - Twin Supercharged Outboards *TURBO ALL THE THINGS!!*

01-26-2015, 11:33 AM	#52
joewell80 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2014 Location: Manitowoc, WI Posts: 52	Re: Improved Door Seals Has anyone here ever use the LMC brand door seals? if so how do they work compared to the other brands.

01-26-2015, 03:07 PM	#54
OregonNed Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Vancouver, Washington Posts: 1,644	Re: Improved Door Seals I'm real happy with my Sofseals - but the whole sealant install is messy and a pain.... Weren't really that much. Bought from a vendor here if I recall __________________ 1968 Chevrolet C/10 LWB - 327, TH350 - 4/5 Drop

01-26-2015, 03:32 PM	#55
Dave K. Registered User Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Milwaukee, WI Posts: 575	Re: Improved Door Seals Great thread and very useful. It's interesting that Jeep CJs have similar problems and I always wondered what the corner vents on the hardtop with the TJs was for! Makes sense about pressure though. I always tell folks not to slam the doors as folks here are correct, puts a lot of stress on things-CJs are notorious for cracking inside right below the lower back corner of the wing windows.

01-26-2015, 04:13 PM	#56
kjdolphins Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Ethan, South Dakota Posts: 93	Re: Improved Door Seals Not sure if it's been mentioned at all, but has anyone tried rubbing in some armor all or some kind of oil into the precision seals to loosen them up a little? I'm sure someone out there has and I'm curious if that would help __________________ Current project: 1972 Chevy c-10 350 (700r4 hopefully) - "Lola" 68 Oldsmobile Delta Custom 455 78 Z/28 Camaro - "Rocky" 89 Camaro RS 305 TBI DD - "Betsy"

01-29-2015, 07:31 PM	#58
Stranny64 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Mora MN Posts: 172	Re: Improved Door Seals So what's the verdict on the seals? I'm gonna replace mine soon. Is it 50/50 on Dodge or factory Chev seals? Or is it just personal preference? Is one better than the other? Thanks!!! __________________ 1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!)

01-29-2015, 08:03 PM	#59
Possmguts Registered User Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Columbiana Ohio Posts: 1,210	Re: Improved Door Seals So what I got from this what that the Dakota seals have metal in them and do not require the glue? __________________ "Hey... its only time and money right? Just do it." 67 Short Bed under major construction http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=651356&page=8

01-30-2015, 05:14 PM	#62
Stranny64 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Mora MN Posts: 172	Re: Improved Door Seals I'm in. Dodge for me too. __________________ 1968 Custom Camper C/20, rebuilt original 327 with 350 hp., turbo 400 with shift kit, factory AC truck, original patina rust free paint from Oregon, 2/4 lowering springs + 1" blocks, GM 2500 8 bolt rally's with dually center caps with Firestone Destination 245/75-R16's. (My 50th birthday present from my wife!!!)

01-30-2015, 05:33 PM	#63
Shaky Six in a row makes it go... Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Vacationland: Maine Posts: 1,346	Re: Improved Door Seals I bought the push-on ones. Original doors on original cab. They're tight. One door will close with a good amount of force, one won't. Tried lubing them with glass cleaner, but it didn't do it. Lower front corner is the tight spot. __________________ 67 C20 long step resto: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342086 66 C10 long step build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3814790 CT to Alaska in a 67 C10: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=399224 “The height of sophistication is simplicity." - Clare Boothe Luce

01-30-2015, 11:55 PM	#68
sboris Registered User Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Osceola, Ia Posts: 2,016	Re: Improved Door Seals With the door on, it may be tough to get the right angle hitting it without slipping. I slipped the wrench over the lip with the door on and could get it precisely where I wanted. __________________ Shawn 68 chevy K/20 05 chevy 3/4 4x4 71 short step-sold 71 chevy Beauville van My build. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=633039

01-31-2015, 12:52 AM	#69
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 19,995	Re: Improved Door Seals Wrench and a rag would be the way to go for bending the lip on a freshly pained truck. I used Dakota seals from a junkyard on my 68 and they work great. Nice and snug, but do not need to slam the doors. Can still close them with a firm push. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man

01-31-2015, 04:49 PM	#70
Back row pupil Registered User Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: walla Walla wa Posts: 11	Re: Improved Door Seals I called my wrecking yard and he said the'86 -'96 are different. Do you happen to know what year you bought? The year that worked for you.he said $20 each, sound right?

01-31-2015, 08:16 PM	#71
derotoreut Roto Reuter thats the name... Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Darien, NY Posts: 1,853	Re: Improved Door Seals Are these used Dakota seals hard to get off once the teeth grab in? I just wondered if I found a used set how easy they come off? __________________ ~ Dan My 70 K10 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=782232 My 71 SWB build:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651394 1970 SWB Fleet K10 4X4, 5.3L LM7, 4L60E, Dakota Digital RTX, Vintage Air, Ididit tilt 1971 SWB Fleet C10 - Original SWB Arizona truck, new custom restoration project "Kick out your motor and drive while you're still alive - kick it out!" - Heart 1977

01-31-2015, 10:38 PM	#73
leddzepp Moderator Join Date: May 2007 Location: Southern Cal Posts: 19,995	Re: Improved Door Seals 86-96, easy to remove. I paid less than $10 for the pair. __________________ 1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man



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