Replace balljoints?

[ReconDaddy]

I am new to the site and green to turning wrenches. I bought a 72 K10 LWB last Thanksgiving and have slowly been replacing little things here and there working up my confidence to tackle bigger projects. Today I decided to replace the inner axle seals, replace U-joints on drive shafts, and replace/repack wheel bearings and seals. With the amount of grit and grim inside the drive shaft housing and amount surface rust on the outside I thought I would replace the ball joints while everything was torn down to this point. I do know this truck was only used during hunting season and sat the rest of the year for the last 5 years, same owner since 1977. I can't see any signs of the balljoints being bad and am wondering if its would be a waste of time replacing them? If it's not a waste of time I have more questions, if it is I should have it back together tomorrow. Thank you in advance for any advice.

[Rod Run]

Jack up the front end, then grab the tire by the top and bottom. If you can wiggle it in and out, then you need balljoints.

While you're at it, grab the tire both sides, and try to wiggle it that way too. If that moves, then you also need tie rods

[ReconDaddy]

No wiggle top to bottom or side to side. I guess if it's not broken, don't break it.

[Rod Run]

Sounds like you're good to go then

[sKnNyPpY]

Look at how the top ball joints mount to the a-arm. If they are riveted they are most likely original. If they are held on with bolts/nuts they have been replaced at some point. Cutting out the rivets is not impossible but not fun either. If they are good lube em up and keep running em either way!

[slikside]

sub'd.

[ReconDaddy]

I don't see any rivets and there is a nut on both the top and bottom. The top nuts are pretty rusted on, so since they don't appear to be bad so I will not mess with them. I did get the u-bolts on the short drive shaft chanced today. There is steel fitted plate on the spindle side of the shaft with a plastic washer and smaller rubber seal. Does the plastic washer and plastic seal need to be replaced if they are not torn? I did get new of the bigger rubber seal.

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by sKnNyPpY

Look at how the top ball joints mount to the a-arm. If they are riveted they are most likely original. If they are held on with bolts/nuts they have been replaced at some point. Cutting out the rivets is not impossible but not fun either. If they are good lube em up and keep running em either way!

No a arms it's a k/10. I'd get a tire in the air and pry gently between the knuckle and the axle "c" to see if you get any up and down movement. Honestly the 4x4 ball joints can be a pain in the neck to change. They are pressed in and you need the correct press to do the job the right/safe/simple was. Also you've got to disassemble each hub/bearing assembly a good ways to be able to get the knuckle out, can't do the ball joints with the axle shafts still in place. Local parts stores will have the press to rent more than likely. If they a minimal amount of play I'd leave it just because I know how much the job can suck especially if everything is rusted together.

[Hogshooter]

Since it is a K10 I am guessing it is 4x4 and has no rivets or A-arms. If you have no play I would use it as is because they are a pain to replace on a 4 wheel drive.

[ReconDaddy]

Thank you for the advise. They are going to stay as is for now.

[sKnNyPpY]

Disregard my post please, rwd dude here