Installing aftermarket radiator, I should have expected this

[MountainGoat1966]

My OEM 31 year old 2 core copper/brass radiator in my 84 K-10 is not flowing worth a darn and the engine runs shall I say, a tad warm .......
I don't want to burn up my stroker engine I built many years ago, so ..... here goes.

It's 130 miles round trip to a radiator shop, and they will take all day to do a rod out and test, so I bought a 2 row aluminum/plastic from O'reilly's.
I know the aluminum will dissipate heat better than the copper/brass, but won't last me another 30 years or so.

I do plan to have my OEM one cleaned and will stash it in the shed since the tanks and core are still in excellent shape, just the cores are plugged up.

The problem comes in when I try to install the upper mounts.
Because of the design and manufacture of the aluminum radiator, the mounts will not work.

I MIGHT be able to cut and modify the mounts with a slot for the radiator seam, and slide a piece of old rubber inner tube or something in there to help cushion it, and use a couple flat washers under the bracket so it bolts tight and not at a funny angle.

Has anybody ever had to do this project, and if so, what was your solution?

Also, since my heater hoses both connect to the engine, I won't be using the hose fitting on the radiator for the 3/4" return hose, and from looking at the new radiator, I sure don't trust that goofy plug with hose clamp they supplied.

I would like to keep my original mounts intact in case I need to reinstall my original radiator, and stash them in the shed also (in a safe place where they won't sprout legs and walk away).

Gotta love these old trucks at times ............ I only have two of them, and the only thing keeping me from buying more old Chevys is a lack of funds.

[old Rusty C10]

I went and took the upper mounts our of a newer truck I think it was like an 88 and got them to work they bolted to the core support and held these newfangled junk rad in place

[MountainGoat1966]

Originally Posted by old Rusty C10

I went and took the upper mounts our of a newer truck I think it was like an 88 and got them to work they bolted to the core support and held these newfangled junk rad in place

Thanks, I guess I will leave this truck down for now, and when I need to make a trip to the big city in a week or so will drive the 83 (as long as it isn't muddy here since it's only 2 wheel drive and I have five miles of bad road to get to pavement) and will drop off the old radiator to the shop then continue another five miles to the only wrecking yard we have.

They had a decent selection of trucks the last time I was there, so will take measurements of the radiator and look for newer models as you suggest.

If that fails and they don't have any, I will try to find a pair of what I have now and modify.

Thanks again for the suggestion and quick reply.

I will take pics and keep the forum posted of what I end up with in case it will help out somebody else.

[gasmn1620]

my local yard has a lot of 88-98 chevys. I'll probably be out there some time next week. If you can get me some pics of what you are looking for I'll take a gander and see what they have.

[nonstop]

Question for you - is it too late to return it? The composite radiators have giver others problems (never used one). I ask because you can get the Champion radiators off ebay for pretty cheap and I have heard excellent reviews about them. I have used a couple in O.T. vehicles and have been impressed by the price and quality. Shipping was also fast. They are completely aluminum.

[tucsonjwt]

For reference, I bought a somewhat thicker 2 row copper/brass aftermarket radiator for my 83 C20 454 and have had no overheating problems in desert AZ (in fact, it might be cooling too much.) I also have A/C, so have the factory condensor, and factory oil cooler. My engine is no stroker but a BB get plenty hot in the summer.

The brand was Ready-Rad - about $135. I did have a a small leak about one year later but a local radiator shop fixed it for $35. I think I got about $40 for the old radiator at the scrap metal place.

My neighbor just had the overflow tube snap off his aluminum Champion radiator when he was pushing on a new overflow hose and it was a PITA to fix - nice looking radiator though.

[Gregski]

pics please

[piecesparts]

I updated my radiator to an aluminum Be Cool radiator, years ago. I did it when I put my stroker engine in my 84 GMC. It was built to fit the factory mounts and all I had to do was some simple trimming on the aluminum pieces to have them fit my mounts. The radiator cost more than a standard off the rack unit, but I know it was worth every penny, when I lost my electric fans one day in the middle of July and the temps were around 100+ degrees. I never did overheat my investment of an engine. I believe that it is foollish to build an expensive motor and then go cheap on what protects it from demolition.

[MountainGoat1966]

First pic is my OEM radiator, note how shallow and narrow the seam is, second is the new aluminum one, the seam is taller, wider, and has more tabs sticking out of it.

[scottybaccus]

Put the rubber pads on, and tighten it down. They work fine on that newer design. They will form to it in short order.

[acesound]

tucsonjwt, do you happen to have the part number of the Ready-Rad radiator you bought? Thanks.

[79azc10]

Good luck, I'm gonna need to replace my radiator sooner then later as well

[tucsonjwt]

acesound - Sorry, I can't remember, and the truck is currently in the shop for a new clutch and some other repairs, so I can't go look at it. It looks like Ready Rad is actually Vista Pro Ready Rad.

I would check you dimensions and start google searching for a Ready Rad part number for a 7.4 L 454 with air conditioning. Looks like the price has gone up a lot, but I still like copper/brass over aluminum or plastic.