Electric Choke Question, 84 K/10 w/ Edelbrock Carb

[SourTooth307]

I had heard on another GM car forum from someone swapping a stock Q-jet to an Edelbrock that aftermarket chokes have to be specially wired for 12v because GM electric chokes would be 11.3v. The improper voltage will make the Edelbrocks run rich. Is this true?

"You'll need to run a switched wire from the fuse block to the carb choke if its electric choke. The factory carb choke wire does not supply 12 volts (it only supplies 11.3 volts), which aftermarket chokes need. On edelbrocks, not getting 12 volts will make it run rich and the secondaries will not open properly."

My truck has an Edelbrock carb on it with the electric choke but I didn't do the swap, I bought it like that. Should I stick a volt gauge on the electric choke to see what kind of power it's getting? I know I'm having a hard time passing my NJ state emissions test and I'm wondering if this is the reason why.

[tucsonjwt]

You won't want to hear it, but my standard response to all choke problems is install a manual choke -$12 solution and you know for sure when your choke is open or closed and can eliminate the choke as a concern. At least it would be a cheap diagnostic test for you.

[SourTooth307]

Thanks for the suggestion, but I wanna stick with what I've got. It won't cost me anything to rewire it if it's incorrect.

[Bigstevex4]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

You won't want to hear it, but my standard response to all choke problems is install a manual choke -$12 solution and you know for sure when your choke is open or closed and can eliminate the choke as a concern. At least it would be a cheap diagnostic test for you.

Amen plus you can use it to step up idle.

[midnight rambler]

I have the divorced choke on my 1902 edelbrock works well here in san diego

[rich weyand]

The electric choke on the 1406 Edelbrock works fine with the stock wiring.

[ray_mcavoy]

I agree with Rich ...

There is nothing in the stock GM wiring that is specifically designed to reduce the voltage to the electric choke down to 11.3V. But using a voltmeter to check is a good idea ... you might find the voltage to be lower than normal due to a loose/corroded connection or other problem in the wiring.

When testing, be aware that there is an oil pressure switch wired into the circuit that prevents the choke from receiving power unless the engine is running. That prevents the choke from opening up when it's not supposed to ... like if you were to leave the key on for a while without starting the engine.

[tucsonjwt]

I just installed a "new" rebuilt carburetor from U.S. Carburetors. I adjusted the choke so it would just barely close all the way when cold - result: choke would not open all the way when the engine reached operating temperature.

So, I adjusted the choke so it was just barely open all the way when the engine was at operating temperature - result: choke would not close all the way when the engine was cold.

This has been my experience with all chokes (electric, hot air, divorced) on multiple brands of carburetors and different thermostatic coils inside the chokes. This is why I "divorced" myself from "automatic" chokes.

Anyone who suspects a rich running carbureted vehicle should first check the engine at operating temperature to make sure that the choke is open all the way.

Your experience my vary.

[rich weyand]

Proper adjustment of the Edelbrock electric choke, if I recall correctly, is to warm the engine up (or at least warm the choke up), then adjust the can till you find the spot where it just starts to move toward closing, back it off a touch and tighten it in place.