Two current issues. Oil Leak and tank valve

[MadMAX77]

I have my '85 K20 worked back up to running. I've done a TON of stuff with it. Right now, I'm losing oil because my dipstick tube broke right at the bracket. I also can't get to the fuel tank selector valve itself. The dipstick is on the RIGHT and it runs between my headers cylinder 6-8 down into the pan. All the available replacements are really short and won't work. I cannot locate a replacement part anywhere around here. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Any tips on how to access and remove the fuel tank selector valve would be greatly appreciated.

I'm new to the forum and hope I don't commit any social errors. Thanks for the help, in advance.

[tucsonjwt]

I am not sure what you mean about not being able to access the selector valve. It should be located on the right side frame rail, as I recall, and it most likely is at least partially covered by a sheet metal shield. It is near the front of the fuel tank. The shield comes off with 3 bolts (I think) and then the selector valve is visible. I would be sure that the valve is your problem before replacing it. It is a little tight in there but it is accessible. Are you sure that the selector switch on the dash is working properly? Good luck.

[MadMAX77]

Yes. I already replaced the switch. The valve was making horrible noises for months before it finally stuck on the right tank. I see where you're referring to. I can see the valve, but I can't get to any of the dad-gum bolts to take the shield off. I should post my parts list on here, lol. The amount of crap and money I've put into this "bruiser" is almost insane.

[MadMAX77]

20 Gal Fuel Tank 2
Fuel Sending Unit 2
Vaccum Booster Brakes 1
Rear Main Oil Seal 1
Oil Pan Gasket 1
Brake Caliper 2
Wheel Cylinder 2
Clutch Master Cylinder 1
Clutch Slave Cylinder 1
Alternator 1
Fuel Pump 1
Intake Manifold 1
Edelbrock 650cfm Carb 1
4-1 Headers 2
Pipes 2
Speedometer Cable 1
Clutch 1
Block Heater 1
Transfer Case 1
Starter 1
Thermostat 1
Optima Yellow 65 1
E-3 Spark Plugs 8
8mm wires 8
Fuel Tank Selector Switch 1
Valve Cover 2
MSD Ignition 1
Carb Spacer 1
Front Drive Shaft REBUILD 1
Rear Brake Spring Kit 1
Heater Core 1
5/32 vaccum line 48
3/8 hydraulic clutch line 10
Heater Blower Fan 1
Header/Exhaust Gasket 2
Power Steering Pressure Line 1
Front Outer Wheel Bearing 2
Front Outer Race 2
Front Inner Bearing 2
Front Inner Race 2
Front Inner Oil Seal 2
Tires 4
Shell 1
Stereo 1
Amp 1
Subs 2
Front Shocks 2
Rear Shocks 2
Stabilizer 1
Radiator 1
Radiator Cap 1
Valve Cover Gasket 2
Header Bolts 8
Valve Cover Bolts 8
That's most of it.

[geezer#99]

Did you know that if you had a breather on the passenger side valve cover, then your pcv on the other cover would work like it's supposed to and you wouldn't be pressuring up your crankcase and puking oil out the dipstick hole.
The dipstick tube on my 305 is longer and has been bent a bit to clear my headers.

[MadMAX77]

I actually JUST put a breather in place of the plug yesterday. I did some reading on that very subject. I stuffed a rubber coated bolt in the remainder of the dipstick-tube and it seems to have stopped leaking. I'm THRILLED with this. I've been fighting a few of the same problems for years now. I bought the truck in Idaho and bought the carb, intake, headers, pipes and ignition from some friends. Everything works, I am just having a nightmare of a time balancing my vacuum advance to my timing and getting my fuel mixture on the carb just right. It's as close to right, now, as I've ever had it. I don't have a timing light anymore or a vacuum gauge so everything is by feel. Since I'm a rookie with this, my "feel" is usually a ton of trial and error. Any tips from 350 SBC experts and Edelbrock specialists would be treasured as well.

I would like to find a replacement for the dipstick tube, so I can check my oil without burning the hell out of myself.

[hatzie]

The tank selector problem is the dash switch about 90% of the time.
The parts books will tell you to use a momentary switch for 81-86 trucks. Don't use that one. You can and should use the ACDelco D7089C switch that supposed to be for the 87-91 R/V series TBI trucks on all 81-91 CK & RV trucks.

You can get smallblock dipsticks complete with the tube for LH dipstick engines at any auto parts store. They'll probably be chrome parts but they will work.

Get a cheap timing light. Harbor Freight has the timing light on sale for $20 right now. Their Vacuum gauge/Fuel Pump tester is $15... This brings you in at $35 for both. I've rarely used my vac gauge tho.
http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pu...ter-93547.html

[MadMAX77]

I've found a bazillion of the left hand tubes, mine is on the right and runs all the way to the pan. Also, I replaced the switch with the replacement from NAPA not long ago. The valve worked for some time, however labored. It made lots of noises when switching sides. Then suddenly it wouldn't anymore.

[hatzie]

If it was extremely noisy then it's probably done.
My dyslexia is showing...
http://www.summitracing.com/search/p...8%2B4294850217

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2509994...lpid=82&chn=ps

[tucsonjwt]

If you use a good flashlight in the shield area, then you should be able to see the bolts attaching it. As I recall, there is at least one bolt next to the gas tank bracket mounting bolt, and two more - I think toward the bottom. If you can't see them, then feel around the gas tank bracket bolts with your fingers. There should be 4 mounting bolts for the gas tank bracket of equal size, and two or three smaller bolts nearby. Sometimes the gas tank bracket bolt is used to secure the shield, so that is a possibility. If you post a pic of your valve area we can likely give you a better idea. Good luck.

[MadMAX77]

I'm still riding the awesome feeling of NOT having oil everywhere on the right side of my engine compartment! Tomorrow or Saturday I'll be digging back into the tank valve deal. A friend of mine gave me one, so I should be able to just swap and go. I pray it's so. Either way, the valve will connect one tank so I won't be any worse off.

Thank you folks for the input. I get to do ball joints, a steering column, steering pump and steering box in the nearish fututre.

[MadMAX77]

Here's my plan. In the mean time, I'm going to cut a foot off of my dipstick, remark the stick and use what's left of the existing tube (since the oil pressure isn't fire-hosing my oil anymore).

[tucsonjwt]

As I recall, two of the lower bolts holding the shield in place have nuts on top of the plate - bolts fastened from the bottom. Use a socket wrench on the bottom while you hold the nut in place with an end wrench - or the bolt will just spin around and not remove.