5/8 static drop parts list – comments/suggestions please

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

The 2 piece drive shaft is a plus with keeping the factory T/A crossmember, if it were a one piece I don't think it would work. One nice thing about the aftermarket crossmembers is the ability to run your exhaust through them. Many folks on here have created pass-throughs in factory units so that is also a possibility. Flipping the T/A mounts may be a good idea.

Thanks Buck. Once I do the LS swap I will likely replace the trailing arm crossmember, since they are fairly cheap (for me since I have no torches and can't weld). For this first rev I will check the pinion angle and flip the t/a mounts if I need to.

The PB trailing arm crossmember looks pretty sweet because of all the adjustments. Looks like I could center the wheels in the wheelwells and custom tune the pinion angle pretty easy.

Really enjoyed your threads today and your TADD tagline seems pretty accurate.!! and of course I loved your '68 and the color.!! Love the slant noses.!!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Thanks Buck. Once I do the LS swap I will likely replace the trailing arm crossmember, since they are fairly cheap (for me since I have no torches and can't weld). For this first rev I will check the pinion angle and flip the t/a mounts if I need to.

The PB trailing arm crossmember looks pretty sweet because of all the adjustments. Looks like I could center the wheels in the wheelwells and custom tune the pinion angle pretty easy.

Really enjoyed your threads today and your TADD tagline seems pretty accurate.!! and of course I loved your '68 and the color.!! Love the slant noses.!!

Ken, I'm sorry you got sucked into the drama of my build threads! I wear my emotions on my sleeve, and I guess it could be perceived as a character flaw but I just see it as being honest. Not everything goes the way we want and sometimes we get in over our heads and I don’t hide my feelings about it when I do.
You are definitely doing one thing correctly, asking questions. There is an abundance of experience here on the board it will suit you well to take advantage of it. Make a plan and stick to it as best you can, but most of all have fun with your truck!

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Ken, I'm sorry you got sucked into the drama of my build threads! I wear my emotions on my sleeve, and I guess it could be perceived as a character flaw but I just see it as being honest. Not everything goes the way we want and sometimes we get in over our heads and I don’t hide my feelings about it when I do.
You are definitely doing one thing correctly, asking questions. There is an abundance of experience here on the board it will suit you well to take advantage of it. Make a plan and stick to it as best you can, but most of all have fun with your truck!

Haha..!! I was up all night reading about your farm truck. Seems like the LS swap went pretty smooth. I just kept clicking and clicking until it was SOLD.!

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Haha..!! I was up all night reading about your farm truck. Seems like the LS swap went pretty smooth. I just kept clicking and clicking until it was SOLD.!

It was fairly easy until I got to the wiring. Buying a good harness is a good idea, but modifying your own is also possible. There are YouTube videos that walk you through it. The important part is to collect parts that work well together.

[kitsbeach]

Okay, I have got most of my list together.

Still a few parts I need to decide on, especially the rear suspension.

And I’m willing to be talked into some good shocks if people think they make a real
difference.

HERE ARE THE PARTS I’VE DECIDED ON:

PORTERBUILT

-Tubular control arms 1” forward
-Addco 1 1/4 sway bar


CPP

-modular drop spindle brake kit (includes spindles and disk brakes)
-OEM style brake booster kit 6772BB2
-rear lowering block kit 2”
-front coils 3” drop (looking for other 3' front spring options)


ECE

-disk brake conversion hoses
-rear coils 6” drop (ECE doesn’t have 3” fronts)

SUMMIT

-Wilwood brake proportioning valve
-Wilwood prop valve mounting bracket

[kitsbeach]

UNDECIDED ON REAR PIECES

NOLIMIT - I like the look of the nolimit trac bar and outside mounted shocks. I especially like the top-mount rear sway bar as it will stay hidden and help my truck look more stock.

A little pricier than the alternatives, but, if the delivery time is reasonable this is what I will get.

PORTERBUILT - I like their trac bar because it is adjustable at both ends so it looks to me like I could adjust it while it is on the truck.

Problem is I’d have to use a standard rear sway bar or figure out another way to do a top mount. And I suppose I’d use the standard rear shock relocators from CPP or ECE (which is fine).

What are other people from the make it handle crowd doing for rear setups.? Hotchkis is too pricey for me.

[kitsbeach]

SHOCK CHOICES

Just going on standard posted prices today in March 2015 and before shopping around:

CPP or Bilsteins for $39 or $89 a corner.

Ridetech RQ or HQ shocks for $125 and $175 a corner.

Ridetech RQ or HQ Coilovers for $275 and $325 including spring. I’d save roughly $45 a corner by not having to buy coil springs but I’d need a rear mounting bar.

Is there a big advantage to coil-overs.? Any downside.? I notice all the pro-touring guys are running them.

Would I notice a big difference if I bought Ridetech shocks vs. regular shocks.? How much of a difference.?

Any other options between the two.?

Some of the CPP packages with spindles and brakes are pretty reasonably priced and it makes it pretty tempting. But, for a significant improvement in handling, I am willing to spend a little more.

[kitsbeach]

COUPLE MORE QUESTIONS

1. Which bolt-in c-notch do people like best.?

I notice CPP sells both a standard 1/4” steel version and a “heavy duty” 3/8” steel version, but says the HD version is “only” recommended for towing. Wouldn’t the 3/8” version be better in any case.?

2. Do people run disk brake backing plates with the CPP modular spindles.? It doesn’t look like the kits come with them. ECE sells a drop spindle backing plate but I don’t know whether it will fit the CPP modular spindles.?

[Rod Run]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

I'm still not sure of a few things:

2. what master cylinder bore size do people suggest for disk/drum.?

that all depends on your calipers. Your best bet is to call whichever master cylinder manufacturer you plan on using and telling them what you have for calipers. Nothing worse than buying the master "that is supposed to be right" and then you have poor braking, when the proper sizing was only a quick phone call away, and you could get that answer a lot quicker and more accurate answercthen waiting days online for an answer that you can't be sure of.

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

COUPLE MORE QUESTIONS

1. Which bolt-in c-notch do people like best.?

I used CPP's and love it

I notice CPP sells both a standard 1/4” steel version and a “heavy duty” 3/8” steel version, but says the HD version is “only” recommended for towing. Wouldn’t the 3/8” version be better in any case.?

I'm one of those people that follow manufacturer's recommendations and see no reason to spend the extra money if they don't. all the little "extra's add up over the length of a build. I like to spend my money efficiently and not wastefully

2. Do people run disk brake backing plates with the CPP modular spindles.? It doesn’t look like the kits come with them. ECE sells a drop spindle backing plate but I don’t know whether it will fit the CPP modular spindles.?

Backing plates don't get used with CPP's modular spindles. I was told by CPP that I can use my original backing plates as Frisbees after the install. You do need to buy their caliper mounting brackets though. Go to their Ebay store for the best pricing and usually free shipping too. The prices there usually beat any of their sale prices

[kitsbeach]

I'm one of those people that follow manufacturer's recommendations and see no reason to spend the extra money if they don't. all the little "extra's add up over the length of a build. I like to spend my money efficiently and not wastefully

Well said..!!

Its crazy how one thing can lead to another... and another.! I want to keep this project reasonable. The trucks sell for a lot less than the parts we put on them..! Not that I am going to sell this one...hoping to keep puttering away on it for years...

[Rod Run]

This is one of those types of advice things that I give out easily, but have a hard time following myself.

I have just finished building my rolling chassis and I struggled to keep it within the budget. I almost bought CCP's tubular rear trailing arms instead of the stock ones. They were "just a little bit" more money, but I asked myself if I am really going to ever push the truck enough to really need them? Probably not. Plus, once you buy the tubular, you need to buy the proper sway bar, which again, it's "just a little bit" more money than the stock ones.

When all was said and done, I bought the stock arms AND the rear bar, for a bit under the price of just the tubular arms.

Today, I just started on the engine and I find myself fighting urges again.

Don't get me wrong...... I do splurge once and a while (as it did happen to a couple of things on the chassis build), but I try to pick my spots.

[kitsbeach]

Okay I have a few parts coming.

Porterbuilt has a 4-6 week wait for the control arms. I went with the 1" forward lower control arms and standard uppers as this was what they recommended for a 5" static drop. If I went for forward arms for both it would be too much for a static drop. I also went for their front shock relocate which is supposed to provide a better shock angle.

I really struggled with buying Porterbuilt or the CPP tubular arms, mainly because I did not want to wait. But I like the fact that they are making good quality stuff in america and figured I'd like to support that.

[kitsbeach]

I also grabbed a bunch of the rear stuff I wanted from No Limit. They had it all in stock which made me very happy.

NO LIMIT
Rear panhard
Rear shock mounts
Top mount sway bar

[kitsbeach]

And I grabbed these progressive bump stops and C-notch kit from CPP off of their ebay store. They arrived right away.

I saw the progressive bump stops on no limit's JT truck and thought they looked cool. If they don't work it's only $15.

[kitsbeach]

I still can't decide what shocks to run. With the front and rear shock relocates I think I'll pretty much be running stock length shocks.

Prices range from $30-40 for KYB's, to $80ish per corner for Bilsteins, to $125 and $175 for Ridetech RQ or HQ shocks.

I just don't know how crazy I want to go on this. I want a good solid handling truck that will keep up with its eventual LS power. Not sure if I would use the tuning capabilities of the high end shocks (but it sounds pretty cool!).

I reminds me of my dad when he got into boating and him and his friends would get "foot-itis" and keep trading in for bigger boats (that they couldn't really afford).

I love to hear how other people do in the autocross with different shocks.

[C10_ustacould]

Ridetech HQ.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Ridetech HQ.

Haha okay Buck not only do you have TADD but you have Footitis.!

But seriously do you think I'd take off the KYB's and put on the Ridetech HQ's and see a big difference.? If it was really WOW then I'd consider it.

[smbrouss70]

According to Hart Rod, it was... Not sure what brand he took off though. I'm considering a set before the Power Tour.

[chevyrestoguy]

If you want to maintain a reasonable budget and still be able to lower the truck statically, I came up with a combination that uses very easy to access parts and it didn't cost me much money. If you don't mind doing some fab work, it's a pretty simple combo.

Here's what I did....
Front:
'79 Suburban (or C-10) front suspension, complete with brakes, etc.
Chassis "Z", went up 2" and forward 1" to center the wheel in wheel opening
Bell Tech drop spindles
Stock half-ton front spring, one coil removed.
My caster mod (see my thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=501241)
1.25" front sway bar
TOTAL DROP: 7" ( I have almost stock ground clearance, too)

Rear:
5" drop coil
2" block
Flipped forward trailing arm mounts
ECE shock relocators
ECE Super Track bar
C-Notch (CPP, full welded)
3-way adjustable Koni shocks
TOTAL DROP: 7"

I have less $800 total invested in the suspension. I already had some of the parts from the donor truck ('79 Suburban). I didn't want to get really trick and have one-off parts that I couldn't fix with a trip to NAPA. I also wanted it to have a stock-looking vibe and paint it all chassis black and have people scratching their heads as to how I got it so low without bags.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Haha okay Buck not only do you have TADD but you have Footitis.!

But seriously do you think I'd take off the KYB's and put on the Ridetech HQ's and see a big difference.? If it was really WOW then I'd consider it.

The Ridetech HQ has 24 rebound adjustments, that's like having access to 24 sets of shocks to tune the suspension. Seem like a reasonable expenditure to me, but I want to drive my truck like a sports car. It's all dependent on how you want drive the truck. If I were not using the Ridetech shocks I would use the CPP gas charged (with ECE springs). I have found them to control the suspension better than the KYBs.

[zipper]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Here is a static 5/7 drop set up I've been wanting to see someone build.

Front
Porterbuilt Upper and lower control Arms - 1’ forward
CPP Modular Spindles – 2” drop
ECE Front Drop Coils – 3” drop
Porterbuilt Tie Rod Adjusters
ADDCO Sway Bar
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable front shocks

Rear
Porterbuilt Stage 2 deluxe for static drop:
Porterbuilt Trailing Arm Crossmember
Porterbuilt trailing arms with spring mounts (1” drop built in)
ECE Rear Drop Spring – 6” drop
Porterbuilt adjustable rack bar
Porterbuilt C-notch
Porterbuilt Upper/Lower shock mounts
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable rear shocks
Rear Sway Bar - TBD

I think this would be a fantastic street truck set up. The shocks would go a long way toward tailoring the ride quality and performance and the other parts would partener to make the truck handle very well. Wouild love to see someone do this.

How much would this come out to approximately?

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by zipper

How much would this come out to approximately?

I updated my original post with prices from each companies site. Looks like the total is just over $4300 plus shipping. I'm sure Dave at Porterbuilt could create a kit for this set up and provide all of these parts in one effort. Porterbuilt doesn't currently offer a rear sway bar but word on the street is there are plans to begin development on one, so the price is a wag. The upper and lower shock mount cost was a wag because they included in kits and are therefore not priced out on the site. I know for just a little more money you could purchase a drop member but that would cause a lot of other work and associated costs. Hope this helps.

[C10_ustacould]

I received a quote from Dave at Porterbuilt for the set up I described above and it came in at $3917.25 plus shipping. Even better...

[zipper]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

I received a quote from Dave at Porterbuilt for the set up I described above and it came in at $3917.25 plus shipping. Even better...

Time to start saving up