How do I properly lower 66 c10 and convert to disk brakes?

[josephmichael09]

I have been searching the forum and the internet without a solid answer on how to convert to disk brakes and lower the truck at the same time.

My master cylinder is currently not working and my brakes hit the floor. So, I thought that it would be a good time to convert to disk brakes, and while i'm adding disk brakes I might as well lower my truck.

How have you guys been accomplishing this, and what are the pros and cons of each?

Any sources or additional information is very much appreciated.

[GVDobler]

Welcome to the forum. There are a couple 20 page threads about using the 73-87 front system. Using the drop spindles would be the best lowering idea I would have. That way you don't loose any suspension travel.

Search for disc brake conversion and you will get tons of info.

[sixTsix]

I bought a ECE conversion kit, with dropped spindles and springs. It was probably more costly than just going to the junk yard and buying a cross member with discs alrdy. But with the kit everything went together well and everything was new. Personally I am happy I went this route.

[josephmichael09]

Originally Posted by GVDobler

Welcome to the forum. There are a couple 20 page threads about using the 73-87 front system. Using the drop spindles would be the best lowering idea I would have. That way you don't loose any suspension travel.

Search for disc brake conversion and you will get tons of info.

What do you mean lose any suspension travel? Also, I did some more searching and found a few of those posts. So i was also looking at summit racing and seen disc conversion kits. If i get these kits do i need to purchase dropped spindles as well and just mount the disc brakes?

[josephmichael09]

Originally Posted by sixTsix

I bought a ECE conversion kit, with dropped spindles and springs. It was probably more costly than just going to the junk yard and buying a cross member with discs alrdy. But with the kit everything went together well and everything was new. Personally I am happy I went this route.

Where did you find the ECE conversion kit? I think I would like to go the brand-new route. Personally I don't like to purchase too many used parts unless they are hard to find.

[TopFuel1966]

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....ry=Drop%20Kits

[sixTsix]

Looks like topfuel alrdy beat me to it hahah Go to the catalog and look for disc brake kits. they have one there that has everything you need including drop spindles. The springs are not included but you can buy them there to. See my build thread for questions ect...

[sixTsix]

Oh DUDE ...just noticed you were in Houston man ..hell yea

[josephmichael09]

Originally Posted by sixTsix

Oh DUDE ...just noticed you were in Houston man ..hell yea

Heck yea man... Houston is where it's at.

So I'm guessing the spindles are all that's need for the cal brakes, correct?

Also, how do I go about the brake booster and master cylinder? What should I get?

[sixTsix]

if you look at the kit Part # 903-6366 in their catalog it comes with spindles and the master cylinder. Now it is manual discs, which is what I went with. But I bet you can call up and tell them the kit part number you want and see if they can toss a booster in and I bet they will for additional cost

C-10 2½" Drop & Stock Spindle 5/6 Lug Disc Brake Conversion Kits
"Every Kit Comes Complete With Master Cylinder, Proportioning Valve, Brake Lines, Brake Hoses, Calipers, Pads, Rotors, Bearings, Seals, Dust Shields, Dust Caps, Castle Nuts, Slotted Washers, Banjo Bolts, and All necessary Hardware and Brackets"

[donthekawguy]

I used the CPP 2 inch spindles, 2.5 inch drop springs and used rotors and calipers. I rebuilt the calipers and got new bearings for the rotors. New lines and a MC and booster for a 71 Impala (new). While I had it apart I totally rebuilt the front end and mounted the power steering box correctly. The spindles I used let you use the stock ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the 71 MC and booster because I like the look of the metal MC over the plastic one used in later model trucks. It rides great and stops great. Of course I used the captainfab brackets and rag joint also. While I had it apart I had the control arms powder coated and upgraded the u bolts to the newer 9/16 ones. Two inch shorter shocks and 15x7 Rally wheels.

[josephmichael09]

Originally Posted by donthekawguy

I used the CPP 2 inch spindles, 2.5 inch drop springs and used rotors and calipers. I rebuilt the calipers and got new bearings for the rotors. New lines and a MC and booster for a 71 Impala (new). While I had it apart I totally rebuilt the front end and mounted the power steering box correctly. The spindles I used let you use the stock ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the 71 MC and booster because I like the look of the metal MC over the plastic one used in later model trucks. It rides great and stops great. Of course I used the captainfab brackets and rag joint also. While I had it apart I had the control arms powder coated and upgraded the u bolts to the newer 9/16 ones. Two inch shorter shocks and 15x7 Rally wheels.

That's a nasty paint job man. It looks nice!

http://www.earlyclassic.com/catalog....version%20Kits

I posted a link to what i think i'm going to purchase. I'm sure this is exactly what I need. So I've seen several posts concerning the ball joints and rods. Am I going to have the same issue with this kit?

[sixTsix]

That's the same kit I bought. I had 0 issues with anything as far as fitment. ball joints tie rods worked fine. Just make sure you get the right kit for your year model. Also if you plan to go lower than 2" make sure to get you some springs as well. My truck is 4.5" up front,(2.5" drop spindles and 2" drop spring),have a look if you need a idea how it will look.

[Evoracer]

Finally converted mine about a week ago. Went with ECE...almost painless.

[donthekawguy]

Originally Posted by donthekawguy

I used the CPP 2 inch spindles, 2.5 inch drop springs and used rotors and calipers. I rebuilt the calipers and got new bearings for the rotors. New lines and a MC and booster for a 71 Impala (new). While I had it apart I totally rebuilt the front end and mounted the power steering box correctly. The spindles I used let you use the stock ball joints and tie rod ends. I used the 71 MC and booster because I like the look of the metal MC over the plastic one used in later model trucks. It rides great and stops great. Of course I used the captainfab brackets and rag joint also. While I had it apart I had the control arms powder coated and upgraded the u bolts to the newer 9/16 ones. Two inch shorter shocks and 15x7 Rally wheels.

If you saw the paint close up you would laugh. I just got some paint stripping pads and will be taking the flames off this weekend. I need to see what condition the body is in and start buying replacement panels and patch panels.

[josephmichael09]

I see that there is a drop kit and the disc brake drop kits. If i purchase the disk drop kit, are the front drop springs needed? I wouldn't think so, but i am confused because the drop kit has them. If i am correct, i would think that i need to purchase the disc brake kit (which come with the dropped spindle) and purchase the drop kit for the 4" drop in the back with rear disc brake kit. Does this seem correct to you guys? I think you guys have kind of answered this question but i am just asking for clarification purposes. The last i want is to be ordering the wrong stuff all over the place.

[sixTsix]

Check it man. All youll need is the front disc conversion and buy the springs separate if you want lower than 2.5 " up front. Don't buy the drop kit. No need for it if you're going to convert.
so this is how I ordered mine. I got all the part numbers together for my disc brake conversion with 2" drop spindles, got the front spring part number, and rear spring part numbers and called them up and ordered it. Guys were super helpful and emailed me my receipt.
You DONT have to buy the springs, unless you want to go lower than 2 inch up front. I personally went 4.5 " drop up front and a 6" drop spring for the rear. IF YOU GO WITH A 6" DROP REAR SPRING YOU WILL NEED ECE'S ADJUSTABLEE PAN HARD BAR. JUST FYI

Hope this helps man

[creep]

For converting to 5 lug

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...062SWBK5OE.htm
or
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...6370SWBK5S.htm

For staying 6 lug

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...062SWBK5OE.htm
or
http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...6370SWBK5S.htm

Master cylinder/booster kit for Discs up front and drums in the rear

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6062BB2.htm

I got one of those boosters but had to get an adapter plate from Captainfab but mine is a 63 GMC which is slightly different.

You can order these kits through Summit Racing if you want to get the Summit Bucks or whatever their rewards are called.

How low were you thinking of going?

[Lowl!f3]

Originally Posted by josephmichael09

I have been searching the forum and the internet without a solid answer on how to convert to disk brakes and lower the truck at the same time.

My master cylinder is currently not working and my brakes hit the floor. So, I thought that it would be a good time to convert to disk brakes, and while i'm adding disk brakes I might as well lower my truck.

How have you guys been accomplishing this, and what are the pros and cons of each?

Any sources or additional information is very much appreciated.

You can convert it to disc brakes and lower it with drop spindles. Go to a yard or craigslist and find a donor front end from like an 86 Chevy C10. You can bolt it in and have disc brakes along with rubber A arm bushings instead of the old 66 ones.
Drop spindles position the wheel up higher to allow the body to look lowered. And it does not shorten the free travel you have between the bumpstop causing you to bottom out on bumps and chug holes.
In the rear to lower it, get some lowering blocks.

Do not cut any springs if your wanting to do it correctly.
Also you will need to change some steering linkages possibly just the rod ends so it can attach to your spindles. You won't need the crossmember like I did if your just lowering it.

The 86 donor complete front crossmember should cost around $150. And spindles range from $229 and up.
Summit racing has 2-1/2" drop CPP spindles for $228.97 and free shipping.
Advantages doing it this way is you have upgraded to newer geometry with rubber bushings. And those can be upgraded at any time to poly bushings.
Parts are available at any part store for the disc brakes, calipers and bearings.
Not to mention you will spend less money doing it with a donor.
Look at my build and you will see the 86 front end I purchased from Craigslist to put in my truck. However I did pancake the crossmember because I'm going to bag my truck. The drop spindles are in the mail from summit.

And since your in Houston. I can hook you up with the guy I bought my front end from. I'm sure he has another one. Or you can buy everything but the crossmember from him. He is in Houston. You might live close by lol.
Give this thread a read over. You will learn all you need to know about the conversion you want.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=4450757

[josephmichael09]

Well after talking with sixTsix I was thinking about purchasing the disc drake kit with the 2-1/2" dropped spindles and ordering the 4" drop springs for the back... Personally I want to go brand new... Especially since involving my safety and my truck...