Drop Springs, how they sit on the LCA

[84GMC15tepside]

So I re-installed my control arms after painting them and went to put in some new springs I bought... DJM 2" drop coils. If I line up the top of the spring to the "D" shape in the front cross-member, the bottom does not fit into the pocket for the original spring on the LCA. I think I read on here awhile ago that it only matters if the top of the spring is lined up with the "D" and the bottom of the spring can rest wherever. Can anyone confirm this? I can't seem to find the thread. Thanks!

[lolife99]

Line up the top of the spring. It has to fit the "D" in the upper spring pocket.

[84GMC15tepside]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Line up the top of the spring. It has to fit the "D" in the upper spring pocket.

Ok cool, it just seems like the bottom of the spring is "out of place" so that was my only concern...The end of these new coil springs do not line up with the slot that the end of the original spring sat.

I will let the bottom of the spring rest wherever it is on the LCA. Thank you lolife

[lolife99]

Let the bottom "pigtail" of the spring, go where ever it goes.

I've cut 1/2 coils, 1/4 coils, or whatever it takes off the bottom of the front springs to get the front end setting correctly on each side of these old trucks.
You have nothing to worry about.

[84GMC15tepside]

(I'll post pics when I leave the garage). I have 2.5" drop McGaughy spindles, 2" DJM drop springs, Moog ball joints. There is not brakes etc, just what is listed above and the control arms on the truck.

(On driver's side)

#1: after installing the spring, jacking up the LCA and putting on the top and bottom castle nuts by hand, I let the jack down. When tightening the castle nuts on the spindle with a torque wrench, it was so easy and I didn't even come close to reaching the required torque spec. Is this OK? Is this because the set up is shorter than stock? I put the pins in the earliest location I could.

#2: I can grab the spring and twist it back and forth slightly as there is only 1 small point of contact between the spring and LCA, near the rear of the LCA pocket. Is this OK? The top of the spring follows the "D" contour.

[84GMC15tepside]

(Suspension is drooped down all the way... Upper control arm's bump stop is on cross member)

Thinking now too that the wheels aren't on, meaning the suspension would rise after putting them on/letting the truck on the ground. This would compress the spring more and I would probably not be able to move the spring by hand (answering #2). And that would make it harder to turn the castle nuts

[SkinnyG]

I usually tighten the castle nuts with the truck still up in the air.

I put a jack under the ball joint, and jack it up until I see the control arm move, compressing the spring. This means the ball joint taper is firmly seated in the spindle.

By doing this, the taper is wedged into the spindle, and the castle nut secures it.

[84GMC15tepside]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

I usually tighten the castle nuts with the truck still up in the air.

I put a jack under the ball joint, and jack it up until I see the control arm move, compressing the spring. This means the ball joint taper is firmly seated in the spindle.

By doing this, the taper is wedged into the spindle, and the castle nut secures it.

Ok thanks for your input.

So I was weireded out that the tips of the castle nut went beyond the hole for the cotter pin... I tightened the castle nuts and got them down to the torque specs, following Moog's directions. This is what the top and bottom castle nuts and cotter pins look like:

Top:


Bottom:


I can just bend the pins down. I hope this will be ok. Here is the spring on the LCA:



Things are looking pretty good:

[SkinnyG]

Tip: Turn the ball joints so the cotter pin hole points front-back. They guy who has to drill them out when they rust solid will thank you.

Question: is the spindle fully located in the knuckle? Looks like quite a cavity on the back side. I'm not used to seeing that.

Peace: The cotter pin distance from the castelated nut isn't a problem. Fuhgeddaboudit.

Video: Quick and dirty spring swap

[84GMC15tepside]

Originally Posted by SkinnyG

Tip: Turn the ball joints so the cotter pin hole points front-back. They guy who has to drill them out when they rust solid will thank you.

Question: is the spindle fully located in the knuckle? Looks like quite a cavity on the back side. I'm not used to seeing that.

Peace: The cotter pin distance from the castelated nut isn't a problem. Fuhgeddaboudit.

Video: Quick and dirty spring swap

Thanks SkinnyG for your help! I realize now that the last 2 pics are before I torqued the nuts down. I'll take a current pic tomorrow.

[84GMC15tepside]

Finally got the pic, here is the setup with the nuts tightened down.