1972 "modern build" direction advice

[wcelliot]

I have always loved the first generation Blazer and recently decided I wanted to build one as a daily driver to replace my 'modified 95 LT1 Caprice/Impala wagon. (I also have a 1954 Dodge 5 window on a '78 Blazer 4x4 frame/drivetrain, but that's just a toy...)

So the goal was to use EFI, a transmission with overdrive, disc brakes, etc... and do so at a price significantly less than similar over the top build I see on Ebay, etc. This is for a daily driver, not a show truck.

So here's what I have so far... I have a 100k one owner '98 K1500 pickup (Vortec 350, fresh 4L60e, and NP241(?) manually shifted transfer case. Solid frame, rusted body, good driver (just drove it home 250 miles at 75mph)

Second, I have a 1972 K5 Blazer. Good glass, trim, interior, awesome double wall top, etc. 350 is dead, TH350 is unknown, NP205 is unknown. Frame appears fairly solid but tub is badly rusted.

Finally I have a freshly stripped extremely solid 1972 Blazer body from AZ. Bare metal, no trim, glass, etc.

My initial urge was to shorten the '98 frame, adapt the AZ body, and complete with the interior and trim from the rusty truck. That would give me the IFS, modern ABS brakes, speed sensitive steering, etc. On reading threads on this, it seems there are loads of issues with this approach....

So second idea is to use the K5 frame, add the modern drivetrain and AZ body. The issue there seems to be the transfer case dumps on the wrong wide and I'm dealing with 1960's leaf springs, early disc brakes, and slow steering.

So given the pieces I have (though I'm willing to liquidate assets to buy something else), what would be the recommendations on getting to a modern EFI OD first gen Blazer at a reasonable price?

Thanks!
Bill

[GMC-YA68]

Advanced adapters - $700 - tranny to stock t-case adapter
Engine Cross member - $400
Harness/Tune - $800
Fuel - $600 - fuel pump, lines, fittings, filter.
Cooling - $800 if you go new radiator and E-fans.
Lift kit - $1000 for axle to oil pan clearance issues.
Exhaust manifolds and new full exhaust. Guessing $400?
Probably a good $500 in unexpected parts/labor/material.

Keep adding if you add/update brakes. Air conditioning.

Also - my personal preference is to get that bare metal sealed ASAP. I have always planned on getting an epoxy primer on anything I took down to bare metal as soon as I could. However, others have been just fine with a bare metal tub sitting in their garage untouched for months. To each their own.

[87Skier]

I think it really depends on your definition of modern. All of the transmission and engine upgrades up until 1998 are pretty standard.

If you had a 97 4L60E it should bolt right up to the NP205 of the Blazer, but you can always buy an adapter.

The suspension and steering is the tricky part. I don't know if a 2 wheel drive Blazer would be closer to what you are looking for in suspension. I know you can find tight ratio power steering boxes which would make the steering feel tighter. Brakes can always be upgraded.

If it were my dollar I would be looking for an LS engine. Someone on the forum did this http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=479956. There is a lot more aftermarket for those engines. You might want to contact the guy who did the build to see what he recommends.

[wcelliot]

Thanks for the advice! So everyone seems to be in agreement that I should not even consider using the 1998 frame? (I'm still mulling that over... especially given the detailed list of adapter parts above that would but a whole lot of fabrication time...)

[wcelliot]

On the LS vs Vortec, I agree that the LS is a much superior piece of engineering except that I've owned a couple of 5.3's in trucks and they have consistently gotten 3-5mpg less mileage than the less powerful but torquier VT350's I've owned (several). Once I get this together though I'll be able to more easily swap in a more modern engine if I decide I need the power over mileage.

[wannabefastcrf]

If that's your plan I would find a older 700r tans so your speedo is compatible with it. Bolt up the 205. Then your drive shafts will work. For with the money you saved spend it on atomic Efi. I wouldn't frame swap it. To much work. Custom leafs if you so desire but remenber it will always be a old truck