Drip rail sealer

[greasemonkey]

My sealer in the drip rail is cracked, peeling up, and the metal is rusting underneath. I know I can get the old sealer and the rust off now, but don't really know the steps to sealing the drip rail. I tried the search function, but there were too many conflicting opinions on brand of sealer. Do you prime the drip rail first, then apply sealer? Or is it apply sealer, and paint over top of it? Or can I apply sealer, and forget about paint (It doesn't have to look great, this is a temporary fix until I can afford a good paint job). Also, I need some sealer that dries fast, as my truck is a daily driver and never sees the garage; this would be an one day project. I just need to stop this neverending rusting that is going on in my drip rail, door bottoms and rockers.
Thanks for any help.
John

[stllookn]

The body shops have the proper material. It will stay soft but will accept paint. The other option is to just shave them.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

If you are looking for a quick fix that will hold up for quite some time, this is what I would do. Using a brush, brush all of the loose stuff out and then spread on roof flashing mastic, (high grade of roof "tar"). You can use a putty knife or your finger in a glove.
Works well, lasts a long time but it is not "pretty". If you are careful, it does not look to bad.

Jim

[greasemonkey]

Thanks a lot guys.
Where could I get that "roof flashing mastic"? Hardware store?
And if I was to go with regular sealer, does it have to be painted after being applied? I don't care if it stays soft for a while, as long as it is weather resistant while it hardens. If I was to paint over it, it would just be spray cans anyway.

[boilrman]

use the seam sealer. you do not have to paint it and it will be the right prduct and not have to be removed like the "mastic" will when you do the rest of the truck later on. Any parts store that carries automotive paints should have it. It will set up in time for you.

do it once and do it right.

[EighthD]

I would go to your local paint store. Use a 3m abrasive wheel you can use with your electricor air drill to cleen out the old sealer. They also should have 3m 2 part seam sealer that will dry in 2 to 3 hours and it will look good. Be sure to use masking tape on both sides of the drip rail. that way after you lay down the sealer you can smooth it out with your finger then pull the tape. when you are done.

[minibike]

I used a brushable seam sealer, that came in a can with a brush cap (kindof like Neverseaze). The comments about preparation above are how I did it...a 3m paint removing wheel, then I used a wire brush on the drill to get in some of the creases. You will end up with very clean bright metal. The only additional step that I took was to use a rust converter to soak into the seams. I have used two types...chemprime, which is available locally, and Kleen strip makes one available at Autozone. This was just to prevent any rust hiding in the seams from coming out later. The masking tape worked really well, brushed it in, peeled off the tape and painted a few days later. This stuff seems to remain flexible, where some other products I have tried, did not (3M fast and firm). Good Luck.

[casey]

Originally posted by EighthD
I would go to your local paint store. Use a 3m abrasive wheel you can use with your electricor air drill to cleen out the old sealer. They also should have 3m 2 part seam sealer that will dry in 2 to 3 hours and it will look good. Be sure to use masking tape on both sides of the drip rail. that way after you lay down the sealer you can smooth it out with your finger then pull the tape. when you are done.

I wish I knew that method when I did mine, mine turned ok, but was it a pain to get a nice looking bead,now you tell me @#%$#, LOL