Help with my new to me 70 C10

[GMJimmy]

Originally Posted by Mike C

You are correct that a complete frame would be cheaper. Short steps with coils and 3.73 shouldn't be that hard to find as a donor, and stepsides are WAY cheaper than fleets. I'd just reenforce the frame with fish plates and move on down the road enjoying your truck.

My truck is a leaf truck. I dropped it with a DJM flip and a 72 5 lug axle. Your 70 should be easier to convert with the longer (most likely) axle housing. I did the ECE 5 lug swap in the front. Any reason you have to get away from the leafs?

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I'm still not sure which direction to go. I guess finding a decent frame soon will be the deciding factor but at the moment all I want to do is get it on the road. I want to get rid of the leaf springs for a better ride and the engine I'm planning on (LS3 erod with a 4L65e) will work better with the truck arm suspension.

Originally Posted by hugger6933

I've got three trucks [of the 5 I'm gonna build] that are long beds to short change overs. I have the stuff and know how but I prefer to CHANGE a frame as to cut one. I know every one has their own thing but I think it is better for me time wise to just change it as I have little time or shop space to deal with it. I work in that shop all day every day and it is like when I get an extra moment I don't want to work there on my truck doing something where I could be better spending the time elsewhere on the truck.

Yeah I'm thinking it will be much less expensive to replace the frame because the rear end is worn out and it's a 3.07 and I need 3.73's as well which is likely what I'll find in a used frame. Still looking for one though.

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

Some pics of the frame splicing would help to determine if repairs are reasonable. If it was cut and spliced in front of the rear cross-member, and if the frame dimensions are right on, some "frame stiffeners" might be the ticket.

Depends on where the splice was done, how it was done, and if you can repair it proper and be able to install the rear suspension cross-member.

Might be easier to just get a SWB 71-72 rolling chassis with 5 bolts. Gets pricey though, if you can repair then the arms and rear ends are easier to get out of long beds.

If you are replacing the frame and can't find a shorty, get a 71-72 parts longbed and shorten that. Easy when it's apart, and the frame stiffeners make it doable. If you can't get a shorty; this way you get 5 lugs and disc brakes.

My frame was cut just behind the rear cab mounts and was butt welded (no fish plates). The guy used body filler to disguise the imperfections and painted it. Only thing that made me get in there and remove the paint was the sticker on the glove box door looked like it was tampered with so I got in there with a wire wheel and found the splice. I think I can weld in some plates and also box it in that area and it will be fine but I'd still rather find a frame with a good 12 bolt 3.73 rear end.
Anybody have one?