Cab floor rust: what are my options?

[In The Ten Ring]

This truck's previous owner, my dad, had it bondo'ed and painted back in 1990......they skipped over this hole!

I'm thinking about riveting in a patch and undercoating beneath, getting me by until I hire a (real) "body shop" to fix it right. It's in a bad spot though as it is "L" shaped.... and the rust area includes all of the surrounding brown-tinted metal.

I had planned on driving it as is, and getting this fixed later, when I have some cash saved up.

What do you guys think are my options?

[Willys47]

I would repair this area the rite way it looks like the seat belt area is affected and safetyfirst may be something to think of !

[57taskforce]

They make the patch for it... Just cut the old out, weld the new in, under coat the bottom, spray bomb the top, and Call it good. Sure I make A bunch of assumptions on that statement but it's always better to cut the rust out than rivet a patch over it. Fix it once and be done. The only thing I warn against is check the rear outer floor supports closely, if there's rust there Id be willing to bet that the supports are rusted too.

[In The Ten Ring]

I'm a noob but I got the truck for a much better price than most anyone here.

Can you hit me with a pic of these "rear outer floor supports?" I don't know what those are.

[hugger6933]

you have to be under the truck to see the rear floor supports. It is the piece that goes past the cab mount and is going over to the inner rocker. It is kinda square looking piece and it looks like it is bolted to the truck.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by hugger6933

you have to be under the truck to see the rear floor supports. It is the piece that goes past the cab mount and is going over to the inner rocker. It is kinda square looking piece and it looks like it is bolted to the truck.

Thanks. I'll try to get under there tomorrow for a look and even come back with pics.

If my cab is too rusty to make properly fixing it affordable, I am ready to "take the plunge" on getting a new cab.

[88Ironduke]

If the possibility of taking the plunge for a new cab is there I would be extra stringent on my assessment of the current sheet metal. Cab corners around the rain gutters, door jams/seal area, inside the vent doors and various places underneath. Reality is that decent welding equipment cost decent money. Don't forget grinders, cut off wheels, etc. It isn't all about the gas mig welder and helmet. The devil is in the details. Factor in patch panel cost, time spent, and what it would cost juts to get started welding/grinding etc. This stuff ain't cheap added up. You may be investing in yourself for the long haul and hats off to ya. Your current cab with a good title is worth good $$$ to guys who already have the toys to weld in panels as required. Weigh your options carefully, welding/fixing a cab can be extremely time consuming but it is absolutely worth the effort and the reward of doing it yourself.

Just my .02 cents.
Paul

[In The Ten Ring]

Well I am not as cool as you might think. I plan on getting estimates from local body shops/men and see how much proper repair of the bondo/rust will be. I would like to get a MIG and even stick welder later, but I'd have to get the truck running first so I can then clean up and organize my garage. It's just not big enough for much of anything else as things stand now.

But after I do clean it up and get it organized, I think I'll buy up some junkyard doors, etc. and learn how to weld.

[KEWLKATDADY]

better to have brown tint on the metal than the dirty pair of underwear in the 1st picture...

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by KEWLKATDADY

better to have brown tint on the metal than the dirty pair of underwear in the 1st picture...

YOU GUYS!

I use worn out clothes as rags and yes, those were washed one last time before being put into the "rag bucket."