20 inch wheels on a 66

[SeanPaintsFlames]

I'm sure this has been asked before, but when I go to buy wheels for my 6-lug 66 fleetside, what other vehicles can I buy for? I'm planning on getting a set off ebay, but you can't exactly look for "66 c10 20 inch wheels" and expect to get anything. What about 80's gm trucks?

Something else I was thinking of- once I install the CPP discs on the front, won't I be able to use some of the newer trucks' wheels with the smaller hub diameter?

[protrash64]

The newer 6-lug pattern works just fine on the old trucks........I have Torque-thrust ST's on mine. Made for 88-98 3/4 ton trucks. The issue you run into is the center bore. The older trucks are larger; 3 1/2" as opposed to 3' or 3 1/4" on the newer stuff. I used a minor spacer to clear the axle hub on the rear of my pick-up.

[oconnor]

so the back spacing is Ok???

[protrash64]

Backspacing on my 18's is 5.25"......20's on my 'burb are 5.5". Works well for me in both cases........I would prefer less in rear but it can be corrected w/ a spacer.

The newer trucks use a little more backspacing than the older stuff.

My pick-up has mini tubs w/ 2 wheelwells welded together for clearance on the inside edge........the burb clears w/ about 3/8" on the inside.

[SeanPaintsFlames]

If you only have 3/8" clearance on the backside, do you end up with 2 or 3 inches of room on the frontside (of the back wheels)?

So something like a 1/4" spacer will fix remedy the hub problem, or did you have to bore them out?

[protrash64]

...... on the pick-up w/ 18's.........I ground the axle flange into a bevel w/ an angle grinder and used a spacer in the ballpark of 1/4". One thing to check is the bore of new wheels.......many are hub centric and the same style can be had in a universal. I have seen SOME listed this way.

Yes, you end up w/ plenty of clearance on the outside w/ this backspacing. If you are bagging and bodydropping its good to have it tite; I personally would space it out about an 1" for purely cosmetic reasons. I like wheel/tire combos out near the lip filling up that space.........but, you cant have everything unless you stagger wheels and then not be able to rotate them and so forth.

There are some pics in the FAQ section of different combos.

[protrash64]

......here is the best pic I had.......you can get an idea of the backspacing and see the tub over on the passenger side.

[SeanPaintsFlames]

Gotcha. I'm not going to bag it, but I will do a 5 inch (or so) static drop before I get wheels. That trucks looks great! I think there are more people with primed trucks than painted trucks on this board!

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

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[blackedoutharley]

Keep in mind with any aluminum wheel that the factory studs are on the short side. This can cause problems with insufficient thread engagement with a standard acorn lug nut.
I, having been in the tire industry for over 20 years, have a perfect solution. Go to your local tire shop and get what is called an "E-T conical" seat lug nut. This is a standard tapered seat lug with a short shank; this will provide the needed thread engagement while still matching the proper lug nut seat (assuming your wheels reguire the standard 60 deg. tapered seat).
Trust me, this is important though often overlooked.

http://lug-nuts.net/index.php?main_p...ee00684c73b2e6

The link shows a metric version but it is available in the standard 7/16" needed for '60-'66's.

The general rule of thumb is an amount of thread engagement equal to the diameter of the stud (I.E. 1/2" stud; 1/2" of thread engagement) or more if possible.. Also remember to check the that the lug nuts do not protrude beyond the back of the flange as this will cause them to bottom out on the drums/disc and will not allow the wheel to be properly tightened.

When picking tire sizes look at the mfg's data books for true dimensions. These will also show what width wheel the measurements were taken on; every 1/2" change in wheel width, wider or narrower, changes the section width of the tire (sidewall to sidewall) .2"

[Tomsriv]

Try to do it without spacers. Many tire shops won't touch your truck if it is using spacers. I was told by America's Tire Company that they found that 90% of the time when a wheel comes off it is either from the use of spacers or from trying to fit the wrong size tire to a rim. Because of the liability they won't work on trucks with spacers.

[protrash64]

........I use the lugs that blackedoutharley is refering to on my truck. These studs are very short, agreed.

I have used billet spacers on my S10 and driven everywhere and also brought home all types of landscape materials (flagstone) and never had an issue. This truck was lowered 5" and had airlift springs.

As far as tomsriv comments go; I take my wheels to the tire shop and mount them myself. I take full responsibility for my own liability; not letting an 8$ an hour turd touch my truck is insurance for me!! No offense, I just think people doing the same job over and over get lax in their work; and their butt isnt going to be riding in the vehicle if something happens.

[ss69bowtie]

I would like to install the longer wheel studs on my 66" GMC myself. The front and rear have different diameters and I haven't been able to locate them through Summit or any web venders I've checked with. I keep finding the shorties for flat style lug nuts is all. Any help finding them would be appreciated greatly. I have used the search feature here already and this thread was the most relevant.

[old cool]

Just wondering if there is a perfect answer to the original question. I would like to know the answer as well.
"Is there a late model truck wheel with six lug that will fit directly on a 1964-66 half ton without any spacers, or any need to make boring cuts?" Drums all the way around.. Any caution to replacing original studs with longer ones? That would address the need to get special lug nuts and it's very easy.