Will these wheel studs work or do i have to find different ones(pictures of orig/new)

[73GMC10]

Hi all, I got a 73 gmc 3/4ton 8 bolt pattern 4x4 that has these 3 inch wheel studs, I went to pretty much every parts store/wrecker in the city and can not find ones that are like my originals, the only place that had anything close to them was napa with these ones but the threading is different because my acorn nuts wont properly thread on and get stuck.
my question is can I use these if I get the proper nuts? or do I need the ones that the bolt goes all the way through the hub as the new ones have the taper right before it comes all the way through/out of the hub, just wondering on opinions as I cant seem to find anything like the originals and was concerned about the stability of the bolt if its not a complete solid all the way through.or if anyone knows where I could buy the proper ones if these wont work, summit only had the style like the new ones.
thankyou for your time
(the reason the old stud is wore out at the end of the threading was the prev owner put lock washers on it and they wore the studs out over time)

[Jeramy]

what part number did they sell you?

[73GMC10]

Originally Posted by Jeramy

what part number did they sell you?

its napa 641-2178 when I google it it comes up as 610-188 dorman
*** I just want to point out that I had to replace the hub as it was trashed *grooves on the mount surface* so I got one off a 78/79 1 ton as the hubs were the same 8 bolt pattern it also came with the studs in it but they are longer studs they are about 3 and 1/4 inches long the thing that throws me off is they are the same style as the new ones I got from napa just longer,i did buy the hub from a parts store so I do wonder if they were the original bolts. is this how they make them now a little shorter inside length with a quarter ish inch taper inside the hub? you would think you would want the full length thickness bolt from end to end inside the hub to avoid stress play or friction wobble inside the hub, unless this is the new way they make them now days for our application

[73GMC10]

Can anyone confirm that for my 1973 gmc 3/4 ton 4x4 8 bolt pattern that 610-188 part no. bolt in my picture will work despite not having a longer shaft before it tapers meaning that the 610-188 will not fill the full length of the inside drum hub width will still work as I can not find these bolts anywhere the full shaft taper length as the original, they are both 3 inches long, just that the new one tapers in sooner so it will not fully fill the hub hole all the way through like the original I need to get this thing together does the extra 1/4 inch matter really on the shaft taper length?

[Jeramy]

my personal opinion would be buy some new lug nuts and run with it. i have spent about an hour looking for alternatives tonight with no luck. that its the part number listed for your truck on Dorman's website

[v30crewcab]

single wheel runs a shorter stud than a dually wheel. make sure you are looking that part up properly. should be the same stud all the way to 91 if you use the v/r trucks to double check.

[wilkin250r]

I'm kinda curious on the so I got one off a 78/79 1 ton as the hubs were the same 8 bolt pattern it also came with the studs in it but they are longer studs they are about 3 and 1/4 inches long aspect.

I was replacing wheel studs a few years back, and I ordered new replacement studs. I know they were Dorman, I don't remember the exact part number, but they looked very similar to the ones shown in the first photo.

My problem was, they were about 1/4 inch shorter than my original studs, and I have a small wheel spacer to allow my 15-inch rims to clear the brake caliper, so I'm only engaging about five threads on my stock studs. Cut 1/4 inch off with the new replacement studs, and now I'm only engaging about 2 or 3 threads, and that's just not enough for me, I would LOVE to find some longer studs.

To the original poster: I would say you are fine. I understand your concerns, but I don't think that last 1/4 inch is going to be a big deal. The alignment is coming from the knurled section, and that length is the same. I bet if you were to take a micrometer to them, you would find a very small gap in that area with the stocks studs as well, because it's the knurled part that's a press fit. However, I WOULD suggest keeping a few of the original studs (and lug nuts) and scouring the junkyards for replacements down the road. In my experience, the Dorman studs are softer than the stock, and thus more prone to ruining the threads by over-torquing.

[73GMC10]

well from more searching and phoning all over it seems that the 641-188 that's basically in the picture is the one now for the rear hub. application.*unless I found an old set of originals*

will it be ok to mount the rim to these even though they will be sitting on the threads?as in the pic once you mount it the right direction through the drum+hub the thread follows in the hub a shade because of the shorter taper so the rim will have thread contact instead of solid bolt contact.

im sure its obvious, I just don't want to use the wrong of anything and have an accident on the road, im not sure these can wiggle or vibrate if they are all the way through and nut torqued as it would probably keep everything a solid.and that 1/4 inch shorter shoulder probably would not be able to shift in any way inside the end of the hub.


thanks for all and any inputs I have gotten. its all very valuable to me for doing things the proper and safe way.

[Bigstevex4]

There fine just use them man the on in there was wallowed almost threw and didn't break.

[wilkin250r]

The issue with the wheel sitting on thread would only be a problem IF it was a flat lug nut (common on ATVs, but very uncommon on cars). But yours aren't flat, they are tapered, correct? I think you'll be fine.

But it DOES bring up a question. If that part number is for the rear hubs, then what part is correct for the front? Does nobody make one?