Door sagging, pins and bushings no fix, what's next?

[TennesseeZ]

Now the door won't even latch, no matter how hard I slam it, I replaced both pins and all 4 bushings last week and could 't see any difference. Checked the latch and it *appears* to be working correctly. What's next, hinges?

It's the 91 K2500 drivers door

[BigBlocksRule]

Is everything lined up or does the tail end still sag? If it's still sagging, use a floor jack with a big block of wood against the lower edge of the door - the wide flat spot, not the very edge. Try it a little at a time and see if that helps. I had a buddy with a P.O.S. Dodge (is there any other kind???) that had to do this weekly.

[68 TT]

I have seen a few with the hinge section on the doors coming free of the sheet metal at the top so they were bending the door jamb mounting point out of shape and causing the door to not line up properly.

My 89 was that way and needed the hinge welded back onto the door shell so everything lined up properly again.

I considered bolting it in place instead but decided not to go to the extra work at that time as welding wouldn't require pulling the door apart.

Yours could just be bent or the door may have come off of another truck that the hinges were in just a slightly different location vs the originals on your truck. If so then using a jack to bend the hinge mount point on the door shell so the panel gaps are right may work. Check the door shell for hinge separation or cracked sheet metal when it is under pressure from the jack. It will be easier to see then.

Have you moved the striker to align with the new door position? Maybe a PO moved it to align with the sagging door or it shifted from years of impact by the sagging door so it doesn't line up right with the door in the correct position. Taking it out and seeing if the door fits into the right place on the cab with proper panel gaps and body lines lined up right is a good starting point for your possible problems. It will help you narrow down the variables so you can figure out what is needing attention.

[Cape Codder]

# 1 never slam a door,it doesn't fix anything. If a door isn't closing properly slamming it will only damage the latches and strikers. First find out why it doesn't close. start by lifting up and down on the back of the door checking for play. If your pins and bushings are properly installed you should have none. If it still moves up and down check that the hinge holes are not egged out from going to long with bad bushings. If the hinges are tight next remove the striker pin completely Now align the door to fit the opening. If the back of the door is low check the front gaps. If the bottom gap is real tight the easiest way to move it is to open the door and put a piece of wood or a socket the long way in the lower hinge between the door part of the hinge and the pillar part. Gently push the door in till the hinge binds on the wood and GENTLY push in a little at a time checking progress till the door moves back a little. If the top is to wide and it is firmly mounted to the door and pillar you will need a heavy steel shaft about 18" long and a 3lb. hammer to move it forward. The top seldom moves unless a weld is broken or rust has gotten into the piller.
When the fits the opening reinstall the striker pin and adjust. If you circle the striker before removing with a sharpy you will have a baseline to start with.

[cmcolfax]

"Piggy-backing" on this tread...

96 Suburban

Driver's door

Opens and closes fine, but seems "loose" when closed

Any bumps in the road cause it to visibly and audibly "bounce" and "rattle".

It is somewhat unsettling

Thoughts?

[Cape Codder]

Re; last post. First open the door and latch the latch mechanism. You should feel two catches it will click twice. You may need to use a round pin or screwdriver to do this. When it is on the second catch see if it will release without pulling the door handle,if it does you need a latch or a control rod is bent and to short. If it doesn't release pull the handle to release. Now close the door gently to the first catch then push in to see if it catches on the second catch. If it does try moving the striker in a little to tighten the door. If it doesn't grab on the second catch try moving the striker out a little at a time till it does.
Keep us posted.

[1976gmc20]

I've got the same problem with my 1989

Pins and bushings helped not a bit, and I had to loosen and pry the fender forward to eliminate the gunshot "twang" every time I opened the door.

It's the major roadblock to fixing it up to be a "nice" truck, otherwise it will continue to be just a firewood hauler. A shame because it runs and drives really nice.

[Cape Codder]

The best way to determine if the door or the fender is the problem is to remove the striker and close the door. If the door fits the cab with even gaps and the body lines meet the door adjustment is fine,move the fender. But if the door doesn't fit the opening you need to align the door not the fender. If nobody has bent the hinges to align and the holes in the hinges are not egged out pins and bushings align the door 90 percent of the time. If someone has bent the door or hinges to align instead of rebuilding hinges you will need to correct that problem also.

[1976gmc20]

My door is obviously sagging. I only tweaked the fender to keep it from popping every time I opened it. It won't latch all the way, just the first catch that rattles on the back roads and creates a lot of wind noise on the highway.

I have five vehicles and although they are all in good running condition, each of them has stuff that needs to be done. It's hard to keep up and/or know what to work on next.

[Cape Codder]

So with the new pins and bushings do you have no up and down motion when you lift on the rear of the door when open? If none then you will need to carefully tweak the hinges as described in post #4. I find it easier to adjust doors with the striker removed so you know when the door fits without it's influence. I did both my doors on my 98 last year and they close as good or better than new. Mine was done before the hinges were worn just bushings worn so no adjustment needed to hinge. I have been doing body work since 1974 and have a lot of experience with door hinges.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

So with the new pins and bushings do you have no up and down motion when you lift on the rear of the door when open? If none then you will need to carefully tweak the hinges as described in post #4. I find it easier to adjust doors with the striker removed so you know when the door fits without it's influence. I did both my doors on my 98 last year and they close as good or better than new. Mine was done before the hinges were worn just bushings worn so no adjustment needed to hinge. I have been doing body work since 1974 and have a lot of experience with door hinges.

Probably. I just got pissed with it after the pins/bushings didn't fix it and haven't mucked with it since.

I need to get a helper out there since the door is too heavy and long to try to lift and watch what is going on with the hinges at the same time.

[Cape Codder]

Amen to how heavy these doors are. I use an old office chair with the arms removed to remove and install doors. The lift ram adjusts to the height and the wheels let me roll it around. When I did my doors I was surprised how heavy they are as mine has no power options at all.

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Cape Codder

Amen to how heavy these doors are. I use an old office chair with the arms removed to remove and install doors. The lift ram adjusts to the height and the wheels let me roll it around. When I did my doors I was surprised how heavy they are as mine has no power options at all.

Yeah I parked mine under a big pine tree in the yard and used a rope or chain to suspend the door from a big limb. Still needed a helper to keep it from swinging out of control.

No power stuff either; this is a basic Cheyenne. It's also extended cab so I don't know if those doors are longer ???