My what is it, do I need it, what's supposed to go there, how do I fix it post.

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

#13 is the brake warning lamp wire. Here's a pic.Attachment 1413431 mine is about 4ft. Long so I ran it up into and back out of this temporary wiring loom I have set up for now. My wire changes colors because part of it was exposed, part of it was taped, and part of it was painted which has been flaking off over the years so it has faded differently in different areas.

Did you reposition your proportioning valve? Mine does not look like that. And I have absolutely no wire whatsoever coming out of it so they must have cut it off at some point. I'm used to seeing a plug that goes in those and not solid like this. Is there a special pin or plug that the wire gets crimped to and put in there?

[57taskforce]

I'd definitely bet on a factory 71-72 bed. And a rare one at that being a tool box and auxilary fuel tank bed. Pretty cool.

[Custom/Ten]

#10, yes that goes to the fuel sending unit in the tank take the rest of what you see there with a grain of salt. I've got some upgrades and aftermarket stuff hooked up but there's nothing modified about that wire, it is supposed to go to the sending unit.

[Custom/Ten]

#13, in response to your question, that is a plug the only thing modified here is that I switched my factory manual disc/drum to power by switching the MC and adding a booster. That is still the original valve for a disc/drum setup and the wire for the brake warning light.

[Bigdav160]

Originally Posted by gordyzx9r

Hmm...this wire goes directly from the middle of the top of the tank, directly to the fuse box. If I'm reading the wire schematic right, that's how it is there too.

I wrote my response from work. Guessing on many.

Looking at my truck and the schematic it's connected correctly. The male spade in the fuse box goes to the instrument cluster.

I thought the evap stuff didn't start until '72 model trucks.

[Custom/Ten]

#10, in response to the other question about what has power when. this is A test light, every parts store has them, they cost $5-10. Put the clip on a good ground (bare metal) and put the pointy end to whatever's you want to test for power, if it has power the lightbulb inside will light up. Buy this!

[Custom/Ten]

I just noticed some of your pics are talking about wires having 12V under certain conditions so I'm guessing that means you have a voltmeter or DMM and know how to use it. Test lights are still handy but not completely necessary if you have a voltmeter. I wouldn't of even posted that but you have a lot of pics and questions here and it's a little confusing. Might be easier to keep it all straight if you had broken all your questions into separate threads like the guy suggested earlier. Anyway good luck man, hope you get it all straightened out!

[Custom/Ten]

Just stumbled across this and thought it may help with your fuel gauge
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=671004

[GASoline71]

#16 hole is from aux tanks mounted under the bed at the dealership. That is also the switch mounted under the floor. I have one on each side of my 1972 GMC long bed and one switch under the drivers seat. The tanks are long gone.

#12, those junk pedal covers are the original style pedal covers.

Gary

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

I wouldn't of even posted that but you have a lot of pics and questions here and it's a little confusing. Might be easier to keep it all straight if you had broken all your questions into separate threads like the guy suggested earlier. Anyway good luck man, hope you get it all straightened out!

Yeah, normally I post questions on individual threads...but when I have a lot of questions I don't want to bury other peoples posts if I have multiple questions.

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

Just stumbled across this and thought it may help with your fuel gauge
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=671004

Awesome, thanks.

Originally Posted by GASoline71

#12, those junk pedal covers are the original style pedal covers.

Right. I put on the new rubber pedal covers and took off those goofy chrome aftermarket ones....

However, they removed the OEM gas pedal and floor mounts entirely and were using that goofy chome pedal cover as a gas pedal.

[mattfranklin]

If it's a '70 then there isn't much in the way of emissions equipment. Only the PCV system. And you want that in place as the factory intended to give you good oil life.

On the engine grounding straps, yes, those are critical. I had a '54 Jeep once and got rid of them. Later I couldn't figure out why it had a vapor lock problem. As it turned out, without the ground straps, the metal fuel line was the path of least resistance. The current flowing through the tube heated it up and vaporized the fuel. My neighbor was a great mechanic and helped diagnose that one.

[Custom/Ten]

My opinion on evap is that it really is a pretty good deal. That said you can, and I have, reduced it down to just a filter to vent your gas tank. The only reason I did it though is because every part of my evap was broke or rotten, etc. I will definitely be restoring mine though. It's just not a priority and I'm going to wait until I've got some more stuff set up like my rear tanK. I'll prolly run a different setup too and move it under the frame to keep it clean under the hood. FYI , legally I don't require evap either, I just think it's a nice feature. So yea you can get rid of it if your just lookin for a quick fix just make sure you still have a tank vent and get the ports plugged so you don't have a vacuum leak. Anyway just wanted to throw out another option for you even though I really do agree with the first posters comment. I'm assuming that's what you meant by emissions crap, like the guy above said, you NEED to keep the pcv working.

[Custom/Ten]

"If it's a '70 then there isn't much in the way of emissions equipment. Only the PCV system"

Not completely true.

He's got an evap canister, not saying it's factory but I can see it right next to the battery in the same location as the factory evap on mine. I can also see the evap lines on the frame. Not tryin to be argumentative, just don't wanna confuse the guy as he's already got enough to deal with lol.

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

"If it's a '70 then there isn't much in the way of emissions equipment. Only the PCV system"

Not completely true.

He's got an evap canister, not saying it's factory but I can see it right next to the battery in the same location as the factory evap on mine. I can also see the evap lines on the frame. Not tryin to be argumentative, just don't wanna confuse the guy as he's already got enough to deal with lol.

Yeah, I'll keep the canister and replace the line from the carb and the line to the vent.

Took the fuel filter off and wow...lots of red sediment in that thing. Filter was doing it's job. I need to take the filter basket off the carb and check that out too. Replaced the filter and got rid of the old rubber lines with new rubber lines (I know...it'll be sometime next week until I can get metal ones).

Another problem that's coming up...moisture. It's a CA truck that's now in AL and we actually get rain here, lots of it. And it's getting into the cab. I put rubber mats in it and water is pooling in both mats after each rain storm. Need to replace the door seals, but I found water in the glove box...which I just replaced since there wasn't one to begin with (now I know why, lol). I don't think the water is coming in from the door seals. It looks like it's dripping from the dash. Dried out window seals?

In the interim, I need to find a an outdoor car cover for high humidity climates. I wish I could garage it, but the new house is only a 2 car garage and the GN is queen and the bike gets the other side along with tools, bench, air compressor, etc. At least until the fiance buys the lot next door and builds me a shop .

[57taskforce]

There's two seams under the cowel cover at the base of the windshield, 1 on each side. Make sure they have good seam sealer in them. If they leak it will cause the water to run down the in side of the dash at the corners. On the driver it will be right above the emergency brake. Passenger will be in about the same place just on that side. Also check the windshield rubber. Probably the easiest way to find the leaks is to have a buddy run the hose over the truck while you in there looking for drips.

[gordyzx9r]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

There's two seams under the cowel cover at the base of the windshield, 1 on each side. Make sure they have good seam sealer in them. If they leak it will cause the water to run down the in side of the dash at the corners. On the driver it will be right above the emergency brake. Passenger will be in about the same place just on that side. Also check the windshield rubber. Probably the easiest way to find the leaks is to have a buddy run the hose over the truck while you in there looking for drips.

Thanks, will check that out.