SAFE Southern Californina Sandblasters?

[Dan in Pasadena]

By safe, I mean someone who knows how to sand blast automotive sheet metal and won't warp and ruin parts!

Bam (Kabwe) long ago listed Blasting Specialties in City of Commerce but they've gone out of business. Yelp lists others and I called the first one listed; Premium Sandblasting in Santa Fe Springs and their phone number is out of service.

So who has experience with a reliable sandblaster I can call for an estimate for my truck's body work? Do these blasters also offer to (preferably) epoxy primer the metal after blasting? All references appreciated. Thanks, Dan

[1project2many]

Hi, Dan.

Sorry I can't help with the shop selection. But you should know there are plenty of arguments against sandblasting. At a minimum, selection of a softer media often goes far toward reducing problems during and after paint and rust removal. Alternatively you can do much to clean metal yourself without ever picking up a sandblaster by using non-toxic methods that require little attention from you while they work. Although I've blasted many parts over the years, it's a job I rarely do anymore.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Hi, Dan.
...by using non-toxic methods that require little attention from you while they work...

Care to elaborate on these methods?

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Care to elaborate on these methods?

Sure.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q...c+rust+removal

Watch some of the videos and look at the pictures. It works... believe me. You're primarily limited by the size container for the electrolyte. The beautiful part is that you can connect a battery charger or other power source and walk away. No need to be there as it works. Depending on the size and shape of the part you might need to turn or reposition it a few times but much less effort overall than blasting. It removes paint as well as rust. Part cleanup after the removal involves cold water and compressed air. Very simple.

This guy spent some time setting up the electrolyte and steel electrodes, which isn't necessary for good results, but the article is good and the pictures are clear.
http://1bad6t.com/rust_removal.html

Notice in this image the detail available after cleanup. You can see a manufacturer's mark stamped in this part.

[_Ogre]

i had every piece on truk sand blasted
the metal on these trucks is thicker than any newer vehicle that will really warp
anyone in the business for a while will know how to do it right
my guy left a little original primer on the roof, big back panel and the door skins
but the rest was clean as a whistle

as for putting some primer on; you could ask the blaster to do it
but get your compressor hooked up and hit it yourself, that layer of primer will get sanded 100%
blow it out well and use some degreaser on the metal, any runs you lay down will be easy to sand

i did not finish spray the paint, but i shot a lot of primer; runs and all
you get better with every run you sand out

[mr48chev]

Best thing is probably to ask local car folks who does it right.

You might also check with the powder coating shops to see if they do it as most of the local sheet metal gets done at a powder coating shop here locally.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

...you get better with every run you sand out...

Reminds me of, "Wax on, wax off Danielsan"

In my case it'd be, "Runs on, runs off Danielsan"

My new compressor pressure switch should be here Friday so it's possible I could spray my own primer, though I've never sprayed a darn thing. I have a new HVLP gun too, just don't really know how to do it other than to go to an automotive paint shop, reveal my ignorance, and follow the instructions!

[Dan in Pasadena]

1P2M - I know about electrolysis but honestly? I don't have much rust and I definitely don't have much patience. I could claim otherwise but it's true.

[1project2many]

??
I think I'm confused. You want to hire a sandblaster, usually done when you have a bunch of rust, but you don have much rust?? Maybe you're thinking electrolysis is only used for heavily rusted items? It works on any rusted surfaces. And I don't know why you think you need patience. Have you ever actually tried using this process? The work gets done while you're out doing something else. With an average level of rust the job gets done quickly and in your case it would take even less time since the panels aren't bad to start with.

I can't think of anything I blasted on my truck. I started to use the blaster on a door but quickly put it down for alternative methods. Anything I could fit in a cut down 55 gallon drum was acid soaked and pressure washed. Larger panels were cleaned with 3M bristle wheels. If I'd known about electrolysis back then I would have skipped the acid as it's much less destructive and works faster.

[e015475]

I think I'd follow Mr. 48's recommendation and find a local shop that does restoration or custom work and ask who they use for their metal prep work, but I'd be careful with powdercoat shops because they may not be as experienced in automotive panels-

Here's a few that I've tried and the pros and cons-

-There's a place here in Phoenix that has a vat of a mild acid solution and another of a neutralizer big enough to put a whole uni-body car in . The parts come out fairly nice but there is still a fair amount of surface prep work before you paint to get the residual chemical off and I worried about getting all the chemical in the folds and seams out.

-Plastic media blast - this works pretty well if you are removing paint, but it isn't so good with rust. This would be my preferred method for a respray with little or no rust and you just wanted to get the paint off without a chemical stripper.

-Soda blast - good for removing paint but rust - not so much. There are several of these guys around town that will come to your house to do it in your driveway. They claim that the soda is environmentally friendly, but you'd better have a little distance between you and your neighbor or take it to the blaster's yard. There's always a concern for neutralizing the soda in the surface of the metal after the blasting and a lot of painters don't like to take the chance.

-Ground glass blasting - this turned out to be the best solution. About $800 to do a AD truck body/fenders/hood inside and out less the bed side panels and tailgate. The business here that does this specializes in automotive work and the ground glass doesn't seem to generate any panel distortion either. I just blew them of and primed them - lots of bite to the surface and clean as a whistle. He'd prime them for you, but I just mail-ordered some of Southern Poly's epoxy primer and sprayed it in my driveway with a $15 Harbor Freight gun

For odd jobs, I bought a HF sand blaster that looks like a converted propane tank - it works pretty well but is a little fussy. I also bought an old bead blast cabinet on CL for $100 and refurbed it - I use the heck out of it.

Usual disclaimers - YMMV and this is just my 2 cents

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

...Larger panels were cleaned with 3M bristle wheels...

I think THIS is what I'm most likely going to do. Question though: with either 3M wheels or wire wheels I assume I'd have to sand afterward to get a "tooth" on the metal, wipe down with a pre paint metal prep, then epoxy prime. What grit? 80?

I initially thought of sandblasting for speed because I have a limited time with my brother-in-law's help before he leaves for home overseas. I wanted his help reassembling but that now looks unlikely so I'll take my time using a 3M or simple wire wheel. And as for electrolysis, yes I DO tend to think of it for heavily rusted parts of which I really have none...so far. But even if I did I know me and I'd be tapping my toes waiting around for it. I have no issue with it for others but maybe it's just not my style.

[ccam]

I have spoken to Anacapa Blasting in Oxnard. Blasting is done with garnet and epoxy primer afterwards. It is not cheap, but they have a good reputation. I am considering them, or buying a bigger compressor and putting some time in.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by ccam

I have spoken to Anacapa Blasting in Oxnard. Blasting is done with garnet and epoxy primer afterwards. It is not cheap, but they have a good reputation. I am considering them, or buying a bigger compressor and putting some time in.

Thanks for the reference. I think the responses I've gotten have convinced me to use a 3M wheel on everything except the cab. It's got some small (as of now...but you know how that turns out) rust through spots in the rain gutter areas. I'll give them a call for an estimate. Oxnard is a bit of a haul but worth it if it's done right. Thanks again, Dan

[1project2many]

I think THIS is what I'm most likely going to do. Question though: with either 3M wheels or wire wheels I assume I'd have to sand afterward to get a "tooth" on the metal, wipe down with a pre paint metal prep, then epoxy prime. What grit? 80?

You'll need to sand. I used 100 grit. I'm no body man though so I'm officially advising you to check with a trained professional.

FWIW this was not a fast process on my truck. The original baked enamel finish had received many years of additional cooking in the sun in Nebraska and was tough as nails. Sanding did little to remove it as the sandpaper quickly filled and became worthless. Chemical strippers did a great job of removing the second coat of paint, probably applied some time in the '70s, but had little effect on the original finish. Even the acid tank was ineffective on some parts. Wire wheels are not high speed devices so the bristle wheel was about the only thing left. I can't tell you how many of those little green wheels I used up, or how many hours I have into stripping the panels. I will say it was far from the fastest or easiest experience I've ever had. I guess the big plus for me was that I could strip a panel or a section of a panel in between other work with minimum prep and cleanup time. For someone that gets bored with a task it's important to reduce big jobs down to smaller, easy to accomplish sections.

[bombclub]

Dustless Sandblasting, you do get a fine film that is coming from the mist of the water I would say a good 20' radius, I will try and find his tel#

[Coupeguy2001]

I took my panels and things to a local wrought iron furniture manufacturer here in Phoenix.
I talked to the guy over the phone, and when they are slow, they do car parts.
They sandblast all parts, wash off the dust, let dry, and powder coat. everything came out perfect.

[55dude]

hi pressure water with heat will usually walk paint right off, find steam cleaner and have them crank up the heat. i know of a guy locally and he strips bridges with this method, peels right off!