Put 'er to work(terrible photos, be better later)

[jumpsoffrock]

This truck spent 24 years sitting, in 2014 I revived it imagining putting it to work hauling potential car-projects around: a car hauler.

I'll have more*much better) photos added in the next couple days, but here's a start. She ran 140 miles round trip today to do this, and started missing really bad as we arrived, and continued to do so the entire way back. This is not a surprise since it is still running the plugs/points/cap I found it witting with. It also was detonating pretty bad. But I pushed her to do 50-55 the entire way back fully loaded(with my new gears that's 2200-2500 RPM)

After replacing every brake part, the rears still slowly lock up on long drives......I am PISSED, and it is very troublesome.......need to investigate.

Got a new motor lined up for it, and brake work(again).

On the way there(empty) she got 10.5 MPG driving a constant 55-60mph



Oh, and the little Greeny Machiny is a '71

[mrolds88]

Glad to see she made a trip!! As far as the brakes (again). Did you replace the rear hose? (I cant remember if you did or not.) If you did, does the pedal return all the way and stay there? I'd run it until the brakes start acting up and stop somewhere (flat/safe block wheels) tie up the brake pedal and then open a bleeder. See what happens.

[jumpsoffrock]

Yes, all hoses were replaced as a matter of fact. Should I expect the fluid to spray out or just dribble?

I can't stand the thought of one of my new wheel cylinders acting up, but I really can't imagine anything else. I've bled this thing to death to remove any air.

Also, the pedal gets harder and shows resistance almost immediately upon depressing it when it is in it's "mood" for dragging the brakes. Whereas when it's cold and hasn't been driven, it will depress what I would call "considerably further".

As Soon as I take it out to get the car titled, I'll take some more fun pics as well.

[68c10airstream]

Double check the fluid level in the master cylinder. It should have an air pocket to allow fluid to expand once the brakes get hot. Leave the fluid level down say about1/4" from the top. The cover has (i assume) a rubber insert to help with this expansion but works best when master isn't jambed full. Newer cars with the clear master cylinder have min/max letters cast into the view window area to help out with this issue, but i suspect your is solid steel. Verbally beat up co-workers working on late model brake jobs pushing pistons in to make room for new thick pads and rotors, watched fluid puke out of the master onto the floor, never open up the hood to correct the fluid lever, (anotherwords overfull) Their reply to me was "it's full isn't it" Couldn't shame them into doing it right even after the car comes back the next week with blue colored rotors!!! Unbelievable!!!! Well enough of my old mechanic rant, but safety related issues repeatedly done deliberately wrong is like fingernails on a chalk board to me. Good luck, Brian F.

[mrolds88]

How is the fluid travel between the master and the hydrovac? Any hoses on yours? Almost sounds like piston on the hydrovac isn't completely returning as everything "warms up". Just looked at a troubleshooting page. http://www.bendixvrc.com/itemDisplay...ocumentID=2960 May be a dumb question, but in the diagram, there is an air filter coming off the hydrovac. Could yours be clogged? If so, it may present a bit more vacuum on a long drive. Just a thought.

[jumpsoffrock]

Believe it or not, I think I have the only C50 without hydrovac. It's a "small truck" style master with vacuum assist.

Maybe I should be looking at my Vac assist....Hardest part is recreating the problem so I can work on it while it's acting up. The irony is that I don't have the time to take it for random hour+ long drives, but when I do....I'm actually using the truck for something I really need done! hahaha, typical.

I'll try and mess with it hopefully next week. Thanks again everyone, I really appreciate the advice and tips.

[mrolds88]

Well I guess you won't have to check your filter then... With it being a "regular" automotive type vacuum booster, I would try the brake pedal to see if it is not returning. Another thing to check the lines to the back of the truck. When you get another tight brake syndrome, start breaking the fittings loose from the front to the back to see where the pressure stops. Also on the pedal getting hard, check the check valve, hose and intake fitting.

[morpheusmac]

nice tires/wheels are they the stock size?

[MjrBummer]

Originally Posted by morpheusmac

nice tires/wheels are they the stock size?

Looks like he got a set of these,

http://www.wheelsnowinc.com/catalog/...em.php?id=1118

Curious how much they set him back.

[jumpsoffrock]

I'm sorry, didn't even see morph's post!

Yes, they were the compromise after spending almost a year lookin for the old Accuride 28160 and having no luck.
I believe total cost was $1600 shipped. Size is 22.5 wheel, tires I'll have to check.

Was it worth it? Dunno, still finding out. Hopefully they'll allow this truck another life of use.

NOTE: The trucks tires on its original widowmakers were beyond shot, and new tires/tubes were gonna cost $1400 by the only place locally who would even do it. I just broke down an bought the new ones.

NOTE: Lug holes not large enough and must be reamed out before installation. Ask me how I know.

[MjrBummer]

I've heard elsewhere about those lug holes too. Not cool when you spend all that dough and they don't even fit properly without modification.

I'm looking for new wheels and tires for my 67 C50 bus as well. Considering it could cost about $3,000.00 for new wheels and tires, I've been looking for a donor vehicle that might have axles with good wheel and tires on it that I can put under it. Hopefully with disc brakes and a better engine and tranny setup as well.

Bill

[1976gmc20]

I used to change those "widow maker" wheels all the time but I guess that it's a lost art now ...

No idea on the brakes. My hydrovac was pretty funky, though. Probably good you don't have that. Only thing I could think of was axle bearing seals leaking onto the brake drums but that should be all the time.

[jumpsoffrock]

Yes, and the axle bearing seals were new.

And here's the funny thing, I just got finished TODAY looking at them and replacing the shoes. The old shoes had a pasty tar-y-ness to them. I don't remember them being that way the first time I took the rear drums off.

No matter, I had a local shop hone the drums, and installed new shoes.

I took it for a short drive and still think it's a little odd, but I haven't tested it extensively enough yet to know what it's gonna do. I don't know what else it could be after this, so my fingers are crossed.