Moving spring mounts down

[akaupp]

I'm in the process of lifting my 64 K10 and got the rear sitting where I want it. I used 63" rear springs and got about 6" of lift. Now I'm working on the front using 52" springs. I've moved the front mount forward and the rear back, I'm wondering what the drawbacks would be to putting a spacer between the front spring mount and the frame to get it sitting level with the rear. I plan to gusset everything and am using grade 8 bolts everywhere.

[snj8198]

i dont think you'll get any issues with using a frame mounted lift bracket for the shackles. Curious, how many leafs are in your 63" pack to get 6"s of lift in the rear? what mounts did you use? shackle flip?

[akaupp]

The 63's have 4 leafs plus the overload. I used the brackets off an 87 Suburban, no shackle flip. Before I switched everything out, my wheel opening was 33" from the ground, after I measured 39" with the same wheels and tires.

['63GENIII]

Cool idea with the front mount. I did that exact thing years ago to a 77 cclb dually. It worked fine. I put a lot of miles on that set up.
So it sounds like you used 3/4 ton 63"s? That's a lot of lift without a flip. Are they stock springs?

[akaupp]

They are stock springs off a 99 1/2 ton Suburban 4x4.

[snj8198]

interesting, thanks for the info.

im looking at doing a 52/63" spring swap as well but i dont want that much lift.

[akaupp]

I'm using the stock 64 lift block. A shorter block could be used to bring the rear down.

[andrewmp6]

As long as you brace it across the frame to each other it should be fine.sky manufacturing uses the same idea but bigger for a lift kit for the front the later 4x4s.

[akaupp]

Excellent. I am going to use 2x3 box for the spacers and probably 2x2 box for the cross brace.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by akaupp

I'm in the process of lifting my 64 K10 and got the rear sitting where I want it. I used 63" rear springs and got about 6" of lift. Now I'm working on the front using 52" springs. I've moved the front mount forward and the rear back, I'm wondering what the drawbacks would be to putting a spacer between the front spring mount and the frame to get it sitting level with the rear. I plan to gusset everything and am using grade 8 bolts everywhere.

I did something similar. Swapped springs and mounts from an 87 CUCV onto my 69. The front brackets might be the same as your 87 burb? It gave me the slight lift (2 inches) I wanted without using a lift kit. If I recall, I used 2x2 .125 square tubing as the spacer material and beefed it up with angled pieces on the sides. I also used ORD's heavy duty shackles which are thicker and longer and used 1/2 bolts. I moved the shackle back a bit (closed up that hole afterwards) and make new radiator support mounts to keep them in the same location. Keep in mind with these flat springs the wheels move forward on compression whereas arched ones move backwards on compression. Also, be aware that the differences in frames and the "homemade" lift could alter the pinion angle of the front diff.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by andrewmp6

As long as you brace it across the frame to each other it should be fine.sky manufacturing uses the same idea but bigger for a lift kit for the front the later 4x4s.

Can you elaborate on the cross-bracing? I had not considered that with my swap.

[akaupp]

My plan is to take a 6" long piece of 2"x3" .125" wall box tube, weld and bolt it under the frame on each side, then weld a length of 2"x2" .125" wall box tube between the frame, sorta like a crossmember to hold the 2"x3" in place and keep them from bending in or out. I'll get pictures once I get everything in.

[argonaut]

1/8" wall tube seems a little thin to me. I would use 3/16" wall thickness minimum.

[argonaut]

Also I wouldn't run that huge block in the rear. Axle wrap on the springs will be way worse given the longer length. I'd go with a shackle flip instead to get that lift in the rear.

These are just my opinions.

[andrewmp6]

What i mean by a cross brace is just some kinda brace across the frame from spring hanger to spring hanger.Its a little over kill to some but i rather do things once and not fix something later on.And while you got it apart make sure you got a steer box brace if not make or buy one.

[snj8198]

I've seen what you are talking about. Mostly, I seen it used by those who run 56" springs on the front; the hanger gets pushed out to the end of the frame horn to accommodate the spring length but this puts too much leverage on the horn for twist and bend so they link both hangers together with box tubing.

[andrewmp6]

Looks like this http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi...CHEVY-SAPD-004 The front is a crossmember/spring mounts but same idea can be made at home.

[snj8198]

that's the critter

[pat english]

I made something like what your talking about.






Its not done yet though.

[akaupp]

Here's where I'm at as of now. I still have to get longer bolts, weld in tubes and cap the ends, but I wanted to make sure it would sit where I wanted it to. I also need to add another gusset from the hanger to the frame.


And here is how the truck is sitting in mockup. Please excuse the mess.

[pat english]

Thats what my garage looks like after a day of work..good job on the crossmember.What springs are you using?

[akaupp]

They are of the 52" variety from the back of an 87 Suburban 1/2 ton.

[snj8198]

once you have that hanger gusseted in, you will have a good platform to build off of for a bumper, winch, plow, or a combo of all 3!