Any mounts that set engine back further?

[Shon]

most of the mounts I find are only going 1" back, but can go more forward if needed. has anyone see any that go more than 1" back from stock location?
without being custom built?

[First c10]

Check out the dirty dingo sliders!

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Shon

most of the mounts I find are only going 1" back, but can go more forward if needed. has anyone see any that go more than 1" back from stock location?
without being custom built?

What type do you need, the 60's style or the 73+ with the horizontal bolt?

The sliders are a nice option, but pricey too. I'm starting to like the upgrade to the 70's stands and the accompanying mount style.

[tinydb84]

I think the DD sliders only go back an inch as well. They look like you can flip them side to side and go 3 inches back. Don't know for sure as I haven't installed my engine yet.

[Shon]

I wanted to keep using my stock perches and stock style mounts in the 71.
have the TransDapt plates currently.
I don't know if any of the DD (or others for that matter) can be flipped from side to side...I did that by accident when doing this swap before and was highly pissed b/c things didn't line up but realized I had them on the wrong side.

[GMC-YA68]

Why are you wanting to go further back? Just curious.

[Shon]

I currently have a LQ4/4L80e set up with a 1pc DS and going to a T56.
the difference is ~1.5", so I can move the engine back and use that DS or leave it where it is and get another one made. Which pretty much makes this one a useless piece of metal....

[Shon]

Found TransDapt makes 1.75" set back non adjustable, that might be too far LOL
oh well, might have a really cool 1pc DS I can make a coat rack out of.....

[crazy longhorn]

Shon, I have a couple ideas....but it would be helpful , if you can post pics on your mounts/ stands , that you plan to use? longhorn

[Shon]

using stock 71 Perches and stock style poly mounts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pt...del/c10-pickup

[BR3W CITY]

Are your perches already in the most-rear set of holes? If not I'd say just set them back into the rear set, and if need be, drill an extra top hole. The difference between the two hole sets is good for like 1.5" or so.

[Shon]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Are your perches already in the most-rear set of holes? If not I'd say just set them back into the rear set, and if need be, drill an extra top hole. The difference between the two hole sets is good for like 1.5" or so.

HMMM, truck was originally a 350/350 and I did not touch the perches when I did this swap 5-6yrs ago, I am assuming they are in the rear most position since it was a V8 to begin with. is that the correct assumption ?

[BR3W CITY]

My truck was an I6, then a v8, then a different v8, now LS....I have no clue what position thing were "supposed" to be in.

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by Shon

HMMM, truck was originally a 350/350 and I did not touch the perches when I did this swap 5-6yrs ago, I am assuming they are in the rear most position since it was a V8 to begin with. is that the correct assumption ?

The v8 holes are the ones that are more toward the front. If you slide the v8 perches back to the upper holes for the 6 cylinder mount, you'll need to drill one additional hole per side into the crossmember for the lower bolt. I don't remember the distance between the holes off the top of my head, but brew is pretty close with his 1.5" estimate.

[First c10]

Just a thought, but sounds like a lot of work/planning/money just to use the original drive line. I had my DL lengthened, new spicer u joints put in, and balanced for around $350 including shipping to and from, and it is a 2 piece DL.

[Shon]

Originally Posted by First c10

Just a thought, but sounds like a lot of work/planning/money just to use the original drive line. I had my DL lengthened, new spicer u joints put in, and balanced for around $350 including shipping to and from, and it is a 2 piece DL.

see bold; I can have another DS made for $200 but you are right, by the time if figure all this crap out I probably could have had a new one made for less than the work and frustration of figuring this out.
and now I am wondering if the one I have might actually work....this one is slight too long, meaning I can barely get it out of the rear pinion when trying to remove it. We were trying to do this all in a weekend but we may just have to settle on it will take a little longer if we have to order a DS.

Originally Posted by Shon

I currently have a LQ4/4L80e set up with a 1pc DS and going to a T56.
the difference is ~1.5", so I can move the engine back and use that DS or leave it where it is and get another one made. Which pretty much makes this one a useless piece of metal....

[First c10]

Shon, if the slip yoke is bottoming out in the trans then 1-1/2" shorter DL will be good. not sure if your truck is stock height or not. if the truck is lowered then it will not go in anymore (or very little).

Also I am sure if the current drive line is in good condition and if it gets replaced you could sign up as a Premium member and post in the classifieds to recoup some of the cost of the replacement. i am sure it would sell good luck and take some pictures.

[crazy longhorn]

Shon, if you move the correct v8 sb stands back 1 hole on the frame (top side), you will set back 2 1/2". You will then need to redrill the bottom holes for the stands. With a set of 1" setback plates/your mounts....you should be able to slide your hand (sideways), tween the firewall & pass side head. Yes, it will be that tight, but no dist to worry about! It fits longhorn

[Shon]

that makes sense.
now time to start taking measurements....
one sucky thing about moving the motor back means the trans shifter gets moved back even further (under the bench seat)....seems like it might be better to slide motor forward and get a new DS, LOL.

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

Shon, if you move the correct v8 sb stands back 1 hole on the frame (top side), you will set back 2 1/2". You will then need to redrill the bottom holes for the stands. With a set of 1" setback plates/your mounts....you should be able to slide your hand (sideways), tween the firewall & pass side head. Yes, it will be that tight, but no dist to worry about! It fits longhorn

[First c10]

Originally Posted by Shon

that makes sense.
now time to start taking measurements....
one sucky thing about moving the motor back means the trans shifter gets moved back even further (under the bench seat)....seems like it might be better to slide motor forward and get a new DS, LOL.

Hence post #15

[Shon]

Originally Posted by First c10

Hence post #15

[crazy longhorn]

As BR3W stated, you can drill the frame for the mounts, where you want....set the engine in, & just plant it where you like it the best? longhorn

[eagleuh1]

I used 6 cylinder stands in back holes, no need to drill new holes. Used templates off LS1Tech to build adapter plates that mounted the stock 68 327 rubber mounts to the 5.3, then bolted right to the 6 cylinder stands. Moves engine back with small amount of room between firewall and left head. Jim