Reproduction Doors for a 66?

[jason999]

Hello,

I have door problems and I am considering buying reproduction doors from LMC. I have read a few posts saying that reproductions aren't good, but most posts seemed older.

Has anyone on here worked with reproduction door? Anyone used LMC reproduction panels or doors?

Thanks

[1963c-10]

What door issues are you having? I'm guessing the usual rust issues?

I've never used repop doors, but I've read the horror stories.

I'd search for some original doors, even at the replacement cost and repairs if needed, you'd probably be well under the $1200-1400 the repops would cost and far less fitment issues.

[jason999]

Originally Posted by 1963c-10

What door issues are you having? I'm guessing the usual rust issues?

I've never used repop doors, but I've read the horror stories.

I'd search for some original doors, even at the replacement cost and repairs if needed, you'd probably be well under the $1200-1400 the repops would cost and far less fitment issues.

I got my fantastic truck when the project was well over 1/2 way done. The passenger door stands out past the body, maybe 1/2". It's pretty bad, but the top of the door doesn't stick out at all. The striker plate has been adjusted as far a it will go and the hinges have been messed with a lot but it's still not good.

It looks like there has been some welding on the inside of the lower section of the door. It also looks like there is some body filler breaking loose on the outside lower section.

My neighbor said that he would put a 2x4 between the door and the body and try to bend the door in some. Honestly it seems like that might work, but I would expect body filler to fall out, so Im not quick to do anything crazy because the paint looks pretty good for now.

The driver door is problematic too, but not quite as bad. The former owner put a bear claw latch on it to try to keep it from sticking out. I feel the drivers door would be easier to fix than the passenger, but if you buy 2 doors from LMC for $525, then you get free shipping vs $125 for shipping. So I'll buy two new doors for $1050, if I believe that they will line up and work well.

I thought that new doors would be straightforward and simple, but I have some concerns after researching it.

I'd like to hear any thoughts that you have and I'd really like to hear from people that have used reproduction doors.

Thanks,
Jason

[Monte's62]

The LMC and top banana panels are from tri-plus. The door skins seem to fit fairly well, but some of the other panels I've heard do not. Most guys make them work, however. Be careful of warping and you should be good if you use panels.

[dodgiesdad]

I used two repop doors on my build. Of all the aftermarket sheet metal parts I used (there was a lot of them) the doors have to be one of the best fitting parts I bought. Unlike the inner fenders which sucked these pretty much bolted right on and lined up. I did have a small amount of adjustment I had to do to both with the doors latch mounting holes. I also noticed the seam was loose in one spot which I used panel adhesive on both doors to fix any concerns with flex in the future. There are also no weld-nuts in either door for mounting the "factory" mirrors, I used riv-nuts.

[jason999]

Originally Posted by Monte's62

The LMC and top banana panels are from tri-plus. The door skins seem to fit fairly well, but some of the other panels I've heard do not. Most guys make them work, however. Be careful of warping and you should be good if you use panels.

Thanks for your post. I just looked up tri-plus doors and reviews seem favorable. Are you pretty sure that is what LMC sells? Also, I'm no body guy. What exactly do you mean be careful of warping? Are you saying they should be inspected for warping before use or that I may warp them somehow?

[jason999]

Originally Posted by dodgiesdad

I used two repop doors on my build. Of all the aftermarket sheet metal parts I used (there was a lot of them) the doors have to be one of the best fitting parts I bought. Unlike the inner fenders which sucked these pretty much bolted right on and lined up. I did have a small amount of adjustment I had to do to both with the doors latch mounting holes. I also noticed the seam was loose in one spot which I used panel adhesive on both doors to fix any concerns with flex in the future. There are also no weld-nuts in either door for mounting the "factory" mirrors, I used riv-nuts.

Thanks for the post and picture! Im glad to hear that your doors worked well. Do you know the brand that you used or at least where you bought them?

Was the repro sheet metal as thick as factory? Does it seem flimsy at all?

It's odd that you mention that there were no weld nuts inside the door. I noticed that my passenger side door had no weld nuts inside. I just had my wife reach inside the door and hold nuts in place. I wonder if my passenger door could have had a door skin (poorly)welded in place. My drivers side had the welded nuts.

A lot of people say to work on the original door, but I have no way of knowing how original the door is.

The more I think about it, the passenger side door needs to go. I'm going to spend some time with the drivers side door today.

[nhr3]

Originally Posted by jason999

Thanks for the post and picture! Im glad to hear that your doors worked well. Do you know the brand that you used or at least where you bought them?

Was the repro sheet metal as thick as factory? Does it seem flimsy at all?

It's odd that you mention that there were no weld nuts inside the door. I noticed that my passenger side door had no weld nuts inside. I just had my wife reach inside the door and hold nuts in place. I wonder if my passenger door could have had a door skin (poorly)welded in place. My drivers side had the welded nuts.

A lot of people say to work on the original door, but I have no way of knowing how original the door is.

The more I think about it, the passenger side door needs to go. I'm going to spend some time with the drivers side door today.

The doors I am using are LMC and I am to date pretty satisfied. There do seem to be some minor fit differences from the original doors but nothing too bad. The only real problems I have had is making the lines on the cowl extensions match up with out having just ugly gaps. If I was not so particular it might not have been a problem. I have to keep remembering it is a 60's truck and they did not have great fit off the factory line.