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07-06-2015, 12:38 PM | #1 |
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Location: Newport News VIRGINIA
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best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
So I'm getting ready to do some serious work on my 64 long fleet. I am going to start off by switching to power disc, at least fronts haven't decided if I will keep drums on the back. While doing so I wavy to get her as low to the ground as possible while maintaining drivability. I'm planning on 2.5 drop spindles and 2"drop springs in the front and c notch the back with 5" and possible blocks. From what I've seen I don't think that will get my c10 as low as I want. I've started reading about a z frame. What is a Z frame? What is the difference between a c notch and a z? I've also seen guys swap the front cross member why? What is the easiest way to get low? I know everyone has their opinion and I want to hear them and why they chose what that did and how much it ran them. Pic would be helpful to, I'm new to this stuff so please keep it simple. Thank you.
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07-06-2015, 12:44 PM | #2 |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
Bags. I am notching and installing drop blocks as soon as they come in, but here is just bags and 2.5 drop spindles.
James
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'64 C10 Build Officially LQ/NV3500 swapped and Bagged |
07-06-2015, 12:47 PM | #3 |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
TypeSL2, you haven't notched your frame yet? Just bags and spindles? What bag kit did you use?
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07-06-2015, 01:47 PM | #4 |
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Location: San Jose Ca
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
A "Z" moves the front suspension up so that the arms are no longer the lowest point on the frame. It lowers the truck however much you "Z" it. Its not necessarily hard per say but it is a lot of work. If you aren't confident in your welding then I would suggest other methods. Here is my "Z" (along with a bunch of other mods).
I probably have $40 in the Z....but...I have $275 in the steering set up to clear the Z (it can be done cheaper though. There are a number of other things you will have to do depending on the amount of Z (trans tunnel, trans crossmember, etc). I have a fairly detailed build thread in my signature if you want more details.
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David Used parts build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=638991 My brother's Nova: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=727985 Rear suspension rework: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=750557 Instagram: myfabguy |
07-06-2015, 05:25 PM | #5 |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
^^+1
For the money and the effect, it's hard to beat a Z, but it requires some fab work. Like Tiny said, the amount of money for the boxing plates is minimal. What makes the difference between a nice Z job and a not so nice job is the way you do everything else, like the steering, inner fenders, etc. I wanted my Z to look factory to a point where nobody would notice it, especially after looking at the all the ground clearance I have and how slammed it is. My truck is dropped 7" in the front (3" Bell Tech spindles, 1 coil cut, and a 2" Z), and it'll ride like it's pretty close to stock.
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Check out my latest endeavor: https://roundsixpod.com My build threads: '55 Chevy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=247512 '64 C-20: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=446527 |
07-06-2015, 05:39 PM | #6 |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
Ok so two follow up questions.
1. Why do people switch their front cross member? 2. Can someone break down the concept and what all has to be done to z a frame? OK one more 3. Does anyone know a kit that has bags and power discs in the same kit. And what size of c notch is required. I'm getting excited to do this but at the same time overwhelmed. |
07-06-2015, 05:47 PM | #7 | |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
Quote:
2. Look at my or chevyrestoguy's build thread. Both are fairly detailed. 3. Call Travis at AZ Properformance and he will set you up with a kit. 4. C-notch or step notch? That is dependent on how low you are going to go and if you are bagging it vs staying static.
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David Used parts build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=638991 My brother's Nova: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=727985 Rear suspension rework: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=750557 Instagram: myfabguy |
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07-06-2015, 09:22 PM | #8 | |
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
Quote:
http://m.ebay.com/itm/181778914050?nav=SEARCH James
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'64 C10 Build Officially LQ/NV3500 swapped and Bagged |
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07-06-2015, 11:40 PM | #9 |
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Location: Newport News VIRGINIA
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
TypeSL2 the reason I ask is I thought in order to get that low you had to notch your frame. If I don't have to I won't, just one less thing I have to do. But I'm not afraid of doing it. Do you ever bottom out? I love the hight of yours. I'd like mine to sit on the ground but not to worried. Just want it low.
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07-07-2015, 10:06 AM | #10 |
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
I haven't driven my around much. I always raise it up when I am driving though. That was the whole reason I put bags on. I am working on getting it setup to where I can cruise around at about this height, but the rear tires touch the insides of the beds at the moment. I have to order the Panhard bar soon to help fix that.
James
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'64 C10 Build Officially LQ/NV3500 swapped and Bagged |
07-07-2015, 10:16 AM | #11 |
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: Newport News VIRGINIA
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
In order to run your bag kit, did you have to put in a bigger alternator, or anything like that with wiring?
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07-07-2015, 11:46 AM | #12 |
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Location: Nashville, TN
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
The kit comes with all the instructions to wire and plumb everything up. I just ran a good power to my power post that I added under the hood and grounded everything in the cab. The truck doesn't have any issues running the compressor. It takes a while to pump up, but I may switch it to dual compressors at some point.
James
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'64 C10 Build Officially LQ/NV3500 swapped and Bagged |
07-07-2015, 10:07 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: AZ
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
There are a lot of options when bagging your C10. We would be glad to help put together a kit that works best for what you want to do, and your budget. Some kits include more components that are good additions when doing a bag job, and others are more basic that you can build from.
Shoot us an email or PM and be glad to go over your options. sales@azproperformance.com - Travis |
07-08-2015, 09:13 PM | #14 |
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Location: Temple City
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
I sectioned a cross member 1.5 inches, and Z'd it another 2.5 inches. This way we did not have to mod the trans tunnel, and could use the factory mounts easier. I followed write ups I found d online.
It was a lot of work, but cost less the $50 in materials. Then we uses C20 springs trimmed to desire height, and fabbed up mounts to use full lentgh C30 shocks for full travel. We did a bunch of other neat things to the truck, and the kid was very happy with the results. After we were done I wished I did that to my C20 instead of turning it I to a K20. |
07-08-2015, 09:17 PM | #15 |
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Location: San Jose Ca
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Re: best way to get a 64 as low as possible on the easy.
How did you do the 2.5 inch Z without doing any tunnel mods?
Do you have a pic of the truck?
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David Used parts build: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=638991 My brother's Nova: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=727985 Rear suspension rework: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=750557 Instagram: myfabguy |
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