Serp system advice

[Kaptain Kadian]

I used a derale 17918. It is a 18 inch fan. It fits fine in my shroud. I did have to trim my shroud down because it was hitting the tensioner.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Update. After spending a large amount of time trying to figure out what VetteVet was saying in his explanations of the questions I was asking him, I think I am almost ready to fire the old girl up. I have connected the L wire to the White wire on my factory harness with a 220 ohm 1 / 2 watt resistor in line. I then connected the S wire to the blue wire of my factory harness. I then ran jumpers on the external voltage regulator plug between the brown and white wires and between the red and blue wires. I ended up using a lower radiator hose from a 92 k1500 for the upper radiator hose with the swivel housing. It actually fits the contour perfectly. I had bought it when I was first doing the swap and had it there to try. Now, I just have to fill it back up with fluids and get the stones to start it up tomorrow. Just hoping I don't burn the truck down or something. That is typical of my projects.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Update. After spending a large amount of time trying to figure out what VetteVet was saying in his explanations of the questions I was asking him, I think I am almost ready to fire the old girl up. I have connected the L wire to the White wire on my factory harness with a 220 ohm 1 / 2 watt resistor in line. I then connected the S wire to the blue wire of my factory harness. I then ran jumpers on the external voltage regulator plug between the brown and white wires and between the red and blue wires. I ended up using a lower radiator hose from a 92 k1500 for the upper radiator hose with the swivel housing. It actually fits the contour perfectly. I had bought it when I was first doing the swap and had it there to try. Now, I just have to fill it back up with fluids and get the stones to start it up tomorrow. Just hoping I don't burn the truck down or something. That is typical of my projects.

You asked all the right questions, took the right pictures, this thread is a real "how to". Lee and VetteVet are the best.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

You asked all the right questions, took the right pictures, this thread is a real "how to". Lee and VetteVet are the best.

I could not agree with you more about Lee and VetteVet. I would have been totally lost without there help. Both have been super fast at responding to my questions and great at explaining things to me. I will update results when I get to fire it up. I have a 2 and 4 year old that take up most of my free time. Thanks guys

[Lee H]

It's nice to be able to give back a little to our community that has so many folks helping out.

[ol rob]

this should be a sticky post.
good work.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Well, after almost a month, I finally got to fire it up. It went slightly worse than planned. It started with a fuel line leak. I got that fixed pretty easily, but went south from there. I then had a coolant fluid leak from one of the heater hoses I replaced coming out of the firewall. I think I got that fixed, but I still have what appears to be coolant or refrigerant running down the inner fender on the passenger side. Then, when I stopped the motor to check the leak, I noticed the belt was off of the ac delete pulley by 2 grooves. I made a couple small adjustments to the location of the Ac delete pulley, but no help. It seems to jump off right when I start it. I did get it to stay on for about a minute or 2, but it then came completely off while the engine was running. Any thoughts on why the belt keeps coming loose? I am wondering if there may be a problem with the tensioner. I did not replace it from the donor truck. It seems to have pretty high tension on it when I pill on it to put belt on, but I can see it move slightly as I start the motor. Thanks guys.

[dirtyjim]

I've seen the tensioners pull to the side when they are worn out but the belt usually stays on, the tensioner moving up and down is completely normal but should not have any play front to back.
you may have a bracket or pulley out of alignment, did the pulleys and brackets all come off the same donor car?

[Lee H]

Without being able to see anything I would check the belt routing, then I would stand by the fender and see if all the pulleys are in the same plane. On the tensioner there are some marks that indicate belt stretch, check that, maybe the belt is to long or to short? I'm thinking the delete pulley is the problem.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Originally Posted by Lee H

Without being able to see anything I would check the belt routing, then I would stand by the fender and see if all the pulleys are in the same plane. On the tensioner there are some marks that indicate belt stretch, check that, maybe the belt is to long or to short? I'm thinking the delete pulley is the problem.

I agree with you on there being an alignment issue with the ac delete pulley. I am wondering if I missed a spacer on the back of it when I took the pulley off to have it powder coated. I will have to see if I can figure out if there was a spacer on the back of it or make a new one.

[VetteVet]

Hurry up I want to know how that alternator works.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Well, after a little inspection, I have found that my power steering pump pulley has backed off of the shaft from where I pressed it on. It appears to be the source of alignment problems. My question is, why would it slide back off of the shaft? It appears to have moved around 3/8". Any thoughts on why it would move off?

[Lee H]

Don't know why, I would reseat it, mark it, and watch it for a while.

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

Well, after a little inspection, I have found that my power steering pump pulley has backed off of the shaft from where I pressed it on. It appears to be the source of alignment problems. My question is, why would it slide back off of the shaft? It appears to have moved around 3/8". Any thoughts on why it would move off?

Not sure why it would move so much, so fast. Are you sure it was on all the way to begin with? Did it fit tight?

Either way, using the installation tool, if it requires some effort to put it all the way back on (so it don't slip) it will be alright as long as you put a bolt and washer in the shaft to keep it on. Use an impact wrench to torque it.

[Kaptain Kadian]

Well guys, I think we did it. I was able to press the pulley back on this afternoon and put a bolt and washer in it to make sure it doesn't back off again. That seemed to fix it. I got the coolant leak fixed and took it for a test drive. I let it idle for around 10 minutes or so with the head lights on and then drove around the neighborhood and the lights never dimmed or anything. So, I hope that means the alternator is charging properly. It didn't idle very well. It kept dying on me while idling, but drove around ok. It still ran a little rough. I am hoping it was just because I haven't driven it in a few months.

I can't thank you guys enough for all the help. I know I couldn't have done it without your help. Thanks guys.

[cst350]

Finally getting to this project. I ordered a Derale 17917 reverse rotation clutch fan (same mounting flange as the 17918). I did this to retain the fan shroud.

The new fan will not fit on the clutch. The inner diameter is too small, the bolt holes are too small and the bolt circle diameter is 3" or 3 1/2" and my clutch is 3 1/4".

Kaptain, you said you had this fan on yours... what did you do to get it to fit?

Do I need to get a new clutch too?

Anyone know of a fan that just bolts onto the clutch w/o modifications?

I dont want to go the electric fan route, I like the stock look of the mechanical fan and stock shroud (I know I will have to trim it).

Thanks for any advice!
CST350

[Kaptain Kadian]

Originally Posted by cst350

Finally getting to this project. I ordered a Derale 17917 reverse rotation clutch fan (same mounting flange as the 17918). I did this to retain the fan shroud.

The new fan will not fit on the clutch. The inner diameter is too small, the bolt holes are too small and the bolt circle diameter is 3" or 3 1/2" and my clutch is 3 1/4".

Kaptain, you said you had this fan on yours... what did you do to get it to fit?

Do I need to get a new clutch too?

Anyone know of a fan that just bolts onto the clutch w/o modifications?

I dont want to go the electric fan route, I like the stock look of the mechanical fan and stock shroud (I know I will have to trim it).

Thanks for any advice!
CST350

I used the derale 17918. I don't know what the difference is between the 2. I bought a new fan clutch for a 92 chevy truck. I was told that you needed a reverse rotation clutch to go with the reverse rotation fan. Get a fan clutch for a 92 chevy and see if it fits. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Lee H]

Originally Posted by Kaptain Kadian

I used the derale 17918. I don't know what the difference is between the 2. I bought a new fan clutch for a 92 chevy truck. I was told that you needed a reverse rotation clutch to go with the reverse rotation fan. Get a fan clutch for a 92 chevy and see if it fits. Let me know if I can help with anything else.
Posted via Mobile Device

Same here, I used the Derale 17918, a new 1992 K1500 Hayden # 2734 clutch fan, and it fit just right, and this set up fits the stock shroud.

[cst350]

I will get the new clutch...

Thanks for all the help!

[Steve Cole]

Hey Kaptain,

Now that you are all done with the serpentine setup, how much money do you think you have in everything? Thanks.

Good job by the way!

[Kaptain Kadian]

Originally Posted by Steve Cole

Hey Kaptain,

Now that you are all done with the serpentine setup, how much money do you think you have in everything? Thanks.

Good job by the way!

I would say less than $400. I don't remember for sure. I think it was right around there
Posted via Mobile Device

[cst350]

Just now getting back to this conversion. So far all the help I have gotten has been great, but I hit another roadblock.

I ordered a new A.C. compressor for a 95 C1500. The case has metric threads on the cab side of the case which I measured at M12-1.75. The holes on the bracket are sized for 3/8-16 and have steel inserts on the cab side. I noticed Rock Auto has a different part number for 93 C1500... Did I get the wrong compressor? Is the newer one better???

Did brackets change on those trucks from 93 to 95?

Is it a bad idea to think I could remove the steel inserts on the cab side and drill out the radiator side holes in the bracket to make the 95 compressor fit?

Thanks for any help

DE

[68c10airstream]

You guys asked about a smaller clutch fan to work in the stock shroud. I did the exact conversion about 10 years ago and my recall may be off but i remember going to the junkyard and found a s-10 4.3 v6 with a 18" fan worked perfectly, serpentine drive obviously. Co-worker has the complete engine/trans now, but if you get desperate i could possibly find out. Good luck!

[Kaptain Kadian]

Originally Posted by cst350

Just now getting back to this conversion. So far all the help I have gotten has been great, but I hit another roadblock.

I ordered a new A.C. compressor for a 95 C1500. The case has metric threads on the cab side of the case which I measured at M12-1.75. The holes on the bracket are sized for 3/8-16 and have steel inserts on the cab side. I noticed Rock Auto has a different part number for 93 C1500... Did I get the wrong compressor? Is the newer one better???

Did brackets change on those trucks from 93 to 95?

Is it a bad idea to think I could remove the steel inserts on the cab side and drill out the radiator side holes in the bracket to make the 95 compressor fit?

Thanks for any help

DE

Wish I could help, but I haven't put a compressor on mine yet. I plan on going with a sanden style compressor. Good luck.

[cst350]

Good call on the Sanden from what I read. I'm running tall valve covers with adapters for my Vortec heads so even the VA adapter brackets would not work.