HELP! Drive shaft troubles

[PLYONS11]

Im looking for some advise on my driveshaft issues. I have started the 3/4 to 1/2 ton conversion that can be seen in my other posts. I swapped out the Dana 60 for a 12bolt and used CPP's tubular rear end kit to convert from leaf to coil springs. Everything was going great until I tried to figure out the driveshaft issues.

My truck is a long bed with a 2 piece drive shaft. The kit I bought for the coil conversion came with a mounting bracket for the carrier bearing, but its unfortunately for the light duty carried bearing and does not work with my HD bearing. CPP also sells a bracket that converts their other bracket from the light duty to the HD bearing, but its for a half ton setup. The bracket just isn't wide enough for the 3/4 ton bearing.

I need to get this driving (only temporarily). I have recently been relocated and will be moving to Birmingham. The relo company we are using will move one vehicle, but it has to be running and driving. Its all ready to drive EXCEPT for the drive shaft. I don't want to have a shaft made, because it will only be temporary as I plan to do an engine/trans swap. I have the crossover u joint already, but I'm stuck. I have tried a few different carrier bearings, but all of them that will mount to the bracket are to small ( inside dia of the bearing) for my 3/4 ton drive shaft.

I also looked into using a 1/2 2 piece shaft, but they all seem to have a splined end on the trans side of the shaft. My shaft mounts to the SM420 with a bolt on flange.

I'm looking for any/all ideas to help me get this thing mobile ASAP.

Thanks!

[Improbcat]

Maybe research what trucks use the same u-joint, then go to the junkyard with a tape measure to see if you can find a 1-piece shaft that will work?

[padresag]

just use conversion joints. I have used a Precision 372 to change sizes. just make sure of your measurements that you require; dia. of cups, overall measure of the cross with cups tight in and whether or not an inside or outside lock. you may have to modify the length of the d/shaft
ron

[rickywideglide]

capt fab makes bracket that bolts into crossmember for hd bearing

[wilbur46]

If you have a torch, the actual center bearing mount is riveted to the crossmember, so you could remove the 1/2 ton bearing support and substitute the 3/4 using bolts.
Its a quick job with a hot wrench and can even be done with the bed on.
I hope you didn't toss the 3/4 ton crossmember.
Good luck, W

[rickywideglide]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...t=649165,maybe this will help

[PLYONS11]

Originally Posted by wilbur46

If you have a torch, the actual center bearing mount is riveted to the crossmember, so you could remove the 1/2 ton bearing support and substitute the 3/4 using bolts.
Its a quick job with a hot wrench and can even be done with the bed on.
I hope you didn't toss the 3/4 ton crossmember.
Good luck, W

I didn't toss the old crossmember! So far I have kept everything, just in case....

I see Captain makes a bracket, but I'm not sure its going to work in my application. The CPP Crossmember that I installed has provisions for a carrier bearing, but it is quite different than the old CM. I'm not sure that its going to work. Ill have to message him and find out.

My other concern is the angle of the front shaft once using this bracket, or the original one. The CM that I have used is designed for lowered trucks, so it doesn't hang down as much, which in turn should raise the rear of the front shaft.

I might have to just post some photos since I am having trouble coming up with a way to explain my dilemma! The piece I am using from CPP is their carrier bearing conversion kit #CBB. the problem is, even though it is designed to use the U-bolt or hoop style bearing, it is set up for the smaller carrier bearing with the inside dia of 1.18. The 3/4 ton has a 1.378" dia and the bolt holes on each side of the hoop are wider than the holes in the conversion bracket.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Ill keep you all posted on my solution.

[PLYONS11]

Did a lot of searching for different drive shaft and carrier bearing options and didn't find anything that would work with my particular setup in the time frame that I needed so I ended up taking the shaft to a shop. They are modifying the carrier bearing that came with the CPP kit (c10 light duty bearing) with a larger dia. Bearing. They are also lengthening the front shaft 3" and shortening the rear shaft 1".

It's not an ideal set up as I would much rather have the hd bearing, but it will work for the time being. All it needs to do for now is drive on to and off of a car hauler for my relocation.

The shop is doing the modifications and replacing the u joints for 150 bucks. Seems pretty reasonable......

Thanks for the replies.

[Mathew21]

Originally Posted by PLYONS11

Did a lot of searching for different drive shaft and carrier bearing options and didn't find anything that would work with my particular setup in the time frame that I needed so I ended up taking the shaft to a shop. They are modifying the carrier bearing that came with the CPP kit (c10 light duty bearing) with a larger dia. Bearing. They are also lengthening the front shaft 3" and shortening the rear shaft 1".

It's not an ideal set up as I would much rather have the hd bearing, but it will work for the time being. All it needs to do for now is drive on to and off of a car hauler for my relocation.

The shop is doing the modifications and replacing the u joints for 150 bucks. Seems pretty reasonable......

Thanks for the replies.

That does seem like a reasonable price.