700R4 (4L60) Install "Info Help"

[mjgord51]

I would like to know how easy it is to install a 700R4 in a 68 C10 FS, LB, coils all around that is now a 6 cyl. (V8 wanted) 3 on the tree truck. What would be needed/ parts to make this happen? (LOL what could go wrong) mjgord51

[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by mjgord51

I would like to know how easy it is to install a 700R4 in a 68 C10 FS, LB, coils all around that is now a 6 cyl. (V8 wanted) 3 on the tree truck. What would be needed/ parts to make this happen? (LOL what could go wrong) mjgord51

Let me re-word this here. The trans (4L60) install is the easy part of this, the linkage/ steering column/ backup switch & the cable from trans hookup to the carb part of this install is where I need some help. V8 in now 305, Edelbrook Performer intake with Holly 4bbl Performance Carb # 4160, 600 cfm is what is going to be used. I hope this is better info on whats going on here. Thanks, mjgord51

[motorcritter]

You'll need a crossmember, swap out the steering column for an automatic one, get a cable kit- and adjust it right! Make sure you've got a good radiator and it helps to plumb an auxiliary cooler for the transmission. The 700R4 ran a cable speedometer drive, so that simplifies that.
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[MARKDTN]

The trans bolts up to the engine so no issue there. Possible flexplate issues with converter bolt holes and early flexplate, but get a new flexplate while it is apart anyway. Use '83 350 K20 as an application and it will have the right holes for the 700R4 converter(assumes 2-pc rear seal, the 1 pc seal will be a correct flexplate anyway). With a Holley carb you may need some studs or whatnot on the linkage. You need to duplicate as close as possible the factory Qjet linkage arc. It cannot be overemphasized how critical the TV cable is in a 700R4. Do not even turn the engine over without the TV cable installed and adjusted. You can buy a converter lockup kit from Painless or BowTie overdrives and other places. May have to change your brake switch to have normally open as well as normally closed part, but many GM switches can be used there. The speedo cable will screw right on, but make sure you have a mechanical output. Corvettes and some Firebirds (not Camaros) used an electrical output. It is not hard to swap parts to get what you need. In some cases the cable may be too short and you have to get a longer one. You want very gentle bends in a speedo cable. A V8 crossmember can be moved back, just redrill the frame. The 6-cyl front crossmember will have to be removed and find/fabricate a V8 style. You need a column shift style "U" shift link on the transmission, not a straight floor shift style. You will need an automatic column and linkage. Be sure you get the frame pivot part as well. Not sure if 73-87 linkage works or not, but it might. You could also just use a floor shifter. You will need a radiator with cooler (do not just add an auxiliary cooler). And you will need cooler lines. You will have to shorten the driveshaft. You probably have the correct yoke with a 3-sp, but be sure before you shorten the driveshaft.

[motorcritter]

The details noted by MARKDTN are essential. I apologise for my generalised rundown, I should have noted that the conversion is not such a cut-and-dry procedure. The cable adjustment is critical to transmission life- the kits mentioned cover it well, though.
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[summitflier]

Is it a 4L60 or a 4L60E ?

[motorcritter]

Also, make sure it's a 700R4 or 4L60- those are *not* electrically-controlled via an ECU. The external dimensions are the same for all of those units- the 700R4, 4L60 & 4L60E- but internals (later versions are stronger) are different and the external stuff (electrical hookups) is different.
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[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by summitflier

Is it a 4L60 or a 4L60E ?

Originally Posted by motorcritter

Also, make sure it's a 700R4 or 4L60- those are *not* electrically-controlled via an ECU. The external dimensions are the same for all of those units- the 700R4, 4L60 & 4L60E- but internals (later versions are stronger) are different and the external stuff (electrical hookups) is different.
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Hay both you guys here is my trans ID# info ( 2FTM098H) which makes it a 1992 4L60. The ID #'s is on the right side back lower area " flat spot" just above the back part of the trans pan.

[MARKDTN]

Do you know what it came out of? I believe '92 has a 5-pin lockup connector instead of a 4-pin. Not a big deal, they just need to know that when you order your lockup kit.

[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Do you know what it came out of? I believe '92 has a 5-pin lockup connector instead of a 4-pin. Not a big deal, they just need to know that when you order your lockup kit.

I don't know what it came out of. it was in the bed of the truck when bought also with the 305 engine connected to it already.

[motorcritter]

Take some photos of various features, and post 'em up. 'Our' eyes might see something that you don't even see! This series of transmissions went through progessive improvements- both internally and externally. The electrical hookups are very important to identify, then it can be installed and utilised.
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[Bigdav160]

2FTM098H code would be out of a Camaro but,IIRC, the round connector didn't show up on a 4L60 until the 1993 Camaro. Then in 1994 cars and trucks got the 4L60e.

Is the connector on the drivers side or passenger side? Drivers side is 4L60 and passenger side connectors are 4L60e units

[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by Bigdav160

2FTM098H code would be out of a Camaro but,IIRC, the round connector didn't show up on a 4L60 until the 1993 Camaro. Then in 1994 cars and trucks got the 4L60e.

Is the connector on the drivers side or passenger side? Drivers side is 4L60 and passenger side connectors are 4L60e units

I haven't a clue what the " connector " your asking of me in the location is? Maybe a picture or a drawing will help me in getting that info to you for identification,

[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Do you know what it came out of? I believe '92 has a 5-pin lockup connector instead of a 4-pin. Not a big deal, they just need to know that when you order your lockup kit.

What is a Lockup Kit used for ? ? ? and why do I need it

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by mjgord51

What is a Lockup Kit used for ? ? ? and why do I need it

Lockup is for the torque converter. All of the overdrive automatics use this feature. It looks at engine vacuum, brakes not applied, and if you are in 4th gear. If all of that is good it locks the torque converter for better fuel economy. You want it to work.

[mjgord51]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Lockup is for the torque converter. All of the overdrive automatics use this feature. It looks at engine vacuum, brakes not applied, and if you are in 4th gear. If all of that is good it locks the torque converter for better fuel economy. You want it to work.

I guess I'm still a little corn fuesed about the lockup, doesn't all overdrives have a lockup torque converter? what is being added to do more than whats already there? what is coming from the trans that controls what and where is it going to, how is it hooked up that looks at vacuum. By this time its evident that I am a manuel trans man, love my 4 spd. mjgord51

[Bigdav160]

The lockup is necessary to prevent the fluid from overheating while in OD. Most transmission's control this electrically. There are some transmissions that did this mechanically/hydraulic but electrical control is more common.

The electric solenoid requires power and ground. Power is usually routed through a NC brake switch so the lockup is prevented when the brakes are applied and the ground is routed through (possibly) a toggle switch for manual operation or a vacuum switch or just a fourth gear pressure switch.

[summitflier]

The primary reason for the lockup is gas mileage.
All torque converters slip a little (some of this is by design).
At highway speeds the torque converter "locks up" to the flex plate.
This keeps the converter from slipping and gives better gas mileage.
Generally it isn't recommended to use a lockup at lower speeds.

[motorcritter]

One of the points of an overdrive automatic transmission is specifically that feature. I've been dealing with the '71 Cheyenne BB/TH400 getting around 10 MPG. It's getting an LS and a 4L80- that should improve that number, easily. Not to mention the 'no more carb headaches', one of my least favourite things about older vehicles. It may seem like a good amount of fitting and fettling (a genuine English-motorcycling term!) to get that 4L60 in your truck, but set up properly, you'll wonder why it took so long to do it.
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[Bigdav160]

Originally Posted by summitflier

The primary reason for the lockup is gas mileage.
All torque converters slip a little (some of this is by design).

In overdrive the amount of slippage increases. That energy gets converted to heat.